BigBlue

As my sig says, I just got a skyjacker 5" lift after 3 years of waiting. Well, to save myself some money (and to have an excuse to do some serious work on the truck) I plan on installing the lift myself. I've got an impact wrench, torque wrench, and a drill. A couple of jacks, a couple sets of jack stands, and a well assorted set of sockets. I've done a couple of body lifts but a suspension lift is new to me. I figure for the front springs, I can jack up the body, put a jack under the front axle, unbolt everything, and slowly lower the jack, and that should control the spring. That's how I've done lower springs before. I'm setting aside 2 full days for this. What do yall think? Any tips? I'm gonna get it aligned after it's all said and done. Thanks for the help yall.

BigBlue

TTT

phox_mulder

I think you've got it covered.

I didn't install mine, so I don't know much.

I've heard the control arm bolts are a bugger to get out, you'll probably want to hit them with some penetrating oil a couple times before you start taking them out.

Tighten everything down to spec, then torque them again after 50 miles or so, then again after another 50.

It'd be a good idea to check all bolts again periodically, my control arm bolts have gotten loose a couple times in the year and a half I've had mine on.

Oh, I hope it's actually the Skyjacker 4.5" lift and you're just calling it a 5" like I am,
as they don't make a real 5" for our trucks.


phox

BigBlue

Well, the invoice says 5" lift. So I'm going by that. I can't wait to get everything in. I'm about to spend a lot of money on beer for the helpers.

Cowhand

Angle drill comes in handy for drilling the upper control arm mounts on the axle. Make sure you have a nice sharp 1/2" drill bit and some kind of cutting fluid.

Control arm bushings are a cast iron ***** to get seated properly, use lots of WD. Heard dish soap works good too.

Start saving money for a decent track bar. It'll go sooner than later.

Make sure the brake line brackets don't get bent, otherwise the line will rub on the tire and abrade through the line. Trust me on this one

If you feel a driveline vibration on acceleration, shim the ceter support bearing on the rear driveline 1/2".

Oh, and check the rear U-bolts before you put them in. Mine were too short, had to have some made.

What size tire you runnin?

BigBlue

315/75/16 Nitto Tera Grappler. What if I don't have an angle drill? Will a standard one work in a pinch?

I SPEED

One of the easiest ways to get the front axle to drop enough is to unbolt the track bar first. Then the shocks, and don't forget to unbolt the calipers...if your doing extended brake lines, install them last. No need working in a puddle of brake fluid.

The axle will then swing down enough to get the stock springs out. You may have to set the new springs in place when installing the new CAs, otherwise it's a ***** to get the axle low enough to set them in place.

This info comes from Jeep experience (TJ, XJ, ZJ, etc...). They all share the basic front suspension as the FS Dodge so this advice should work for you.

Keep us posted...

Doug

I SPEED

As far as CA bushings...you can try the hacksaw method of removing them. Remove the blade from the saw, insert it through the bushing and then reattach it to the handle. Then cut the inner steel sleeve, you should be able to punch it out.

As far as installing, you can try freezing the new bushings over night, only removing them from the freezer when you are ready to install.

The easiest way for both removing and installing would be to use a ball joint press. Makes this job happen in a matter of minutes.
You may be able to rent one somewhere local to you.


Doug

BigBlue

I will. I plan on taking lots of photos of the before, during, and after. Plus a measurment photo to show the actual difference. God I can't wait. And to top it off, I'm debating a set of injectors at the same time.