JohnX

I figured I would throw on the new PS62 last night thats been hanging around the kitchen table for a few months. What a cluster fark! The Turbo was supposed to be a bolt in part. First, I couldn't get the downpipe seperated from the main exhaust....some torching and hammering taught it a lesson. Took about 45 minutes to get it apart. Then, upon install I found that the oil drain line wouldn't clear the fresh air output of the turbo. Again, 45 minutes of torching and massaging the line and it barely fits now. Then, I go to recconnect the exhaust pipe to the down pipe....new down pipe was 2 inches shorter than the one I took out....So I had to drive it home open pipe

On the plus side, it does feel like I gained a small amount of power, boost is running a little lower. Used to be 6-7 psi at 68mph, now it is 0-1 psi at the same speed.

So....Has anyone ever had major issues with the oil return line fitting in there on an aftermarket turbo?

marine4life

That turbo is a little large for what your running right now. You definitely need to get that 100 plate in there, should help your spoolup and overall boost. I have a htt 62/12 and at 70mph 2000 rpms i get around 8-9 pounds of boost.

GFB

All s300 based turbos have the oil drain clearance issue if they are wastegated.

Tate

Turbo looks like it would be a good fit for what he is running right now. Plate won't help spool up, thats in the AFC, and overall boost is determined by the load. I've got the 62/71 on my 24v, and I run about 2 psi on the highway at 70 mph.

FWIW, I didn't have any issues with the drain line as it seems most people do, but my lower coolant line interfered with the wastegate housing. I talked to Doug at PDW, that was the first time he had heard of that. Did you clock your housings to get a better fit, or just bolt it in as it came in the box? I had to tweak everything on mine a bit.

J Lent

You need to loosen the 6 bolts on the back of the compressor housing & turn it till you have good clearance & alignment. After everything is on, retighten the bolts.

JohnX

Didn't clock the housing at all. Maybe that is the entire issue. I was planning to do the 100 plate at the same time, but was barely able to get it driveable to go home. Probably do the 3k gsk and the 100 plate at the same time....this weekend I hope. With that and a little tweaking in the AFC, it should be kickin some ace.

J Lent

Yeah, I didn't have to modify my oil drain tube at all. Once the housing is clocked, the tube clears fine. Although it is really close to the actuator rod.

gotslicks

make sure the drain is pointed 98% down.
dont angle it too much or youll potentially cause a backup in its draining ability and more than likely could blow the oil seals out.

vrj

Does anyone know the size of the bolt head and most importanly the thread size for the two (2) bolts that connect the oil drain tube to the bottom of the turbo?

I thought it was 5/16 (both pitches) and these didn't work. I went out and bought 10mm bolts and those dont work either.

I want to instal my new flexible oil drain tube to the turbo prior to pulling out the stock turbo. I don't want to use the old rusty bolts currently from the stock turbo.

Also, what is the thread size of the four (4) exhaust manifold bolts that connect to the turbo? Are they M10x1.5?

I plan on installing my turbo this weekend.

JohnX

Just from memory I think those two bolts holding the drainback tube are 8mm, but is been a while.

Don't know on the others.

dieselrob

I had issues with mine(oil drian) and clocking wouldnt fix it. So i just made a new oil drain with hydraulic hose. Works fine for the 3+ years been on there.

kantdrive55

The bolts should be 8mmx1.25

vrj

Thanks for the exhaust manifol info. and yes they are 8mm x 1.25 pitch. Got the turbo off and coated my new bolts with Anti-Seize but I guess today wasn't the day for me.

I couldn't get the MBRP downpipe seperated from the main pipe. I tried all day and was frustrated to say the least. I don't want to cut MDRP downpipe because I want to save it but I guess I have no choice.

Before I cut the downpipe (next weekend), has anyone disconnected the downpipe from the exhaust pipe without cutting either pipe? If so, what method did you use?

Tate

After the turbo comes out, get someone to hold onto the exhaust real firm, and then twist and rock the downpipe side to side and up and down and it will wiggle free. It was a pain though, could've ran that exhaust without clamps.

vrj

Tate,

Thanks for the info. I guess a second set of hands would have been nice. I usually don't wait for buddies to drop by so most of the time I'm working by myself since I need to get things done without wasting allot of time.

I'll probably just borrow a Plasma cutter and cut my MBRP stock turbo downpipe to fit in my new HTT downpipe.