Are there any special tools needed to R&R the injectors on the 2nd gen CTD? Im thinking it might be a good idea to take them out and clean them.
Is there anything in the injector tip thats made out of rubber?

 

There are many - multible tools manufactures- one I'm looking at is on a cable for the back ones becouse of the firewall overhang , but then theres always the get around it method , prybar - but that requires a lot of care to not do any damage , getting a good long straight pull , not cocking from side to side.

 

If it is on a 24v all you need to use is the valve cover bolt. Take one of the bolts out and screw it in the top of the injector and give it a pop and they will come right up.

Make sure you retrieve all of the copper gaskets on the bottom of the injector.

Quad

 

When you put them back in, you can use a little grease to hold the little piece of copper on so that they wont fall of when you try to put them back on. When you start your truck back up the grease will be gone then.

 

for early 24v's----

the bolts to hold the grid heater work on some models---as stated screw it in the top of the injector and you can use a wrench to pry it up---

some things to remember---

first make sure you undo the injector line nut completely to access the cross over tube--use a small screwdriver to pop the crossover tube out--you don't need to remove it totally, just back it out 1/2" and your good----

when you remove the old injectors make sure the copper washer is on the old injector--if not you can get it out with a flat screwdriver by wedging it in the hole and wiggling it and then pull it out--you must remove this washer---

as stated use some grease to make sure the new washer stays on the injector when installing---also put some grease on the oring

remember to align the hole in the side of the injector with the crossover tube as you drop it in---push the crossover tube back in--it kind of snaps--if you can't get the injector line nut to thread in you don't have the crossover tube pushed in correctly---

have fun and take you time on the first go around---chris

 

Just a Small pry bar or a big screw driver or the bolt does work also.

 

if his sig is accurate and its his truck he's working on, it's a 12 valve. All you need is one of your lugnuts and a piece of 3/4" conduit about 1 1/2" long. Remove the hold down nut...after all the lines of course....slip the conduit over the injector, then thread the lugnut down onto the injector. It will pull the stick out of the hole, and theres no height problems on the back 2 either, like with other pullers. I went a step farther and made a nice version out of a machined down socket and nut.

If you re-use your coppers, heat them with a propane torch first to swell them again to size. Be careful and align the indexing ball on the injector with it's keyway in the head. If you don't and start tightening down the injector nut, your head is cracked. You'll see what I mean when you pull them.

Good luck

Chris

 

the info I posted is for 24v's............chris

 

So theres no worries about cleaning the tips of these guys in some evil solvents?
Im also looking at other injectors but Im not sure what to get. I see the 370s are cheaper but Ive heard theyre not optimal for the truck motors.

 

I'm not a 12v guy, but there's a zillion truck running 370's---you can make some awesome power with them--but you will need to hear from 370 owners and compare how their trucks are set up vs yours--

do a search on 370 injectors---

no need to clean the tips--unless you want practice on removal and installation....chris

 

If you're going to go though the trouble of removing the injectors might as well get them pop tested, they will also check the nozzle spray pattern.
My local John Deere dealer pop tests injectors for $5 each.
Personally I've never removed injectors just to clean them, there are fuel additives that will do the job much easier.