ted_pulliam

I have a fairly significant fuel leak at the injector line to head connection for cylinders 4, 5 and 6. I think it is due to the injector crossover tube o-rings leaking. I need to remove the crossover tubes to put new o-rings on them, and I thought I had heard tell of others fabricating their own tool to do this, or at least using common tools to do it.

I am short on time and creativity, and I cannot think how I would fab something to get those pesky crossover tubes out to replace the o-rings, so I am thinking about purchasing a tool (http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6069.aspx) to do this. I thought I'd ask here first if anyone knows how to get the crossover tube out without the fancy tool. I don't want to spend the money if I can avoid it!

Thanks for any help,

Ted

AggieJustin

I didn't even know they made a tool for that.

I just use a small screwdriver or pick to catch the threads on the end of the crossover tube and it pops right now. They're not tight or anything, you can just pull them out.

And you don't need a tool for the injector either, you can just a valve cover bolt to screw into the top to pull them out.

I've swapped three sets and have never used anything special.

ted_pulliam

I'll give this a try. I thought about grabbing at those threads with something Sunday when I had the thing apart, but in the past when I tried this on various threaded bolts, etc. I would risk galling the threads to where the part couldn't be threaded back in.

If this is not a big risk for these crossover tubes, I'll give this a try. Experience speaks for itself, and it sounds like you've not had any problems doing it this way. Thanks for the tip!

Ted

OlBlue

Those are ridges. There aren't any threads on the cross over tubes. That large nut threads into the head. Go for it!

nickg

same here, just use a small screwdriver, they are only held in there by the O-ring, it pops out rather easily

illEatUrDuramax

i made myself a tool just like the one from the website you posted using parts from sears. cost me 6 bucks. you can find these parts at any hardware store

ted_pulliam

Awesome. Do you have a brief description of the parts you bought? I can justify 6 bucks or so right now a lot more than 40 - 50. I'll keep this solution in mind for the long term.

Ted

Tate

Or, instead of spending money on tools that really aren't neccesary, use a small flatblade screwdriver to pull the connector tubes, and use a short 8mm bolt from the intake horn to put in top of the injector and use a small pry bar to pop it out.

Joe Diesel

i did what Tate said ^^^ just easy on the prying my first attempt injector no.1 went flying accross the garage

lovinCTD59

Winner! I have done several injector jobs on these trucks. I have never used anything else than a bolt from the intake and a small screw driver...

ted_pulliam

I hear ya guys... I'll grab the screwdriver and bolt and go after this thing again. Since I won't be needing the tools I was orginally wondering about, I will use that money instead to fix my annoying fuel sender. I'll make another post about that in just a sec.

Thanks for the information.

Ted

Mike Holmen

Ted, prior to removing the connector tube and changing the oring, is the connector nut (on the injection line), is it tight. If they are lose they will leak. Grab a 3/4in open end wrench, and see if they are tight. Sometimes that works.

I use the short air intake bolt and use my angled/bent 45 deg needle nose pliers to lever out my injectors. I've also used the longer bolt and a large socket as a slide hammer to remove the injector. Sometimes the injectors are in the head pretty good.

Good luck

ted_pulliam

Thanks Mike. I'll keep this information for future reference if I have to get the injectors out. What you said about checking the connector nuts is a good idea. I had held hopes that them being loose was causing the leakage, but I've tightened them as much as I can with my 19mm open end wrench. They won't tighten anymore without considerable force.

The good news is that even though I've got this fuel leak, I've gotten really fast at removing the air intake and VP-44 lines!

I think I just need to go at the connector tubes one more time, and when I do I'll use these suggestions and replace the o-rings and that'll hopefully be the end of it.

Ted

jay_d

idk on the isb engines, but on the 6bts my old man took one of the caps off the fuel lines and welded a long bolt and a slide on it, made like a slide hammer that threads on the end of the injector, works awesome

scroshba06

Cummins Sells It. Part # 3825157. But They Are Hard To Get Out. They Only Push In.