Injector Installation
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Hampton Roads Va area as of June 2010.
Injector Installation
I know that this has probably been beat to death like many questions and topics but I can't find any information. I have a set (6) RV275 Bosch Injectors that I need to install. I can't find any write ups on installing injectors on a 2000 24 valve cummins though. I would love to find a write up with pictures and lots of helpful hints and tips to install these as well as any special tools that i would need. thanks to everyone who helps me with this. -Buddy
2000- Dodge Ram 2500 Sport CTD Club Cab 4wd-Edge Juice W/Attitude, MBRP 4" turbo back, Stage 1 K&N Homemade Intake, Walbro 285 fuel pump, injectors waiting to go in, and maybe a Georends Transmission next
2000- Dodge Ram 2500 Sport CTD Club Cab 4wd-Edge Juice W/Attitude, MBRP 4" turbo back, Stage 1 K&N Homemade Intake, Walbro 285 fuel pump, injectors waiting to go in, and maybe a Georends Transmission next
I did a simple google search and found this to start you off...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...jector+install
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...jector+install
Had not seen that thread before....excellent!
However, I recommend removing the fuel lines completely first. Not that much more work and lets you remove connecting tubes for inspection and o-ring replacement if needed (recommended by Cummins).
'Want....smoke' - if planning on doing your own work on your CTD, I strongly recommend getting the Dodge Field Service Manual for your yr! Invaluable tool with lots of pics!
Available HERE
RJ
However, I recommend removing the fuel lines completely first. Not that much more work and lets you remove connecting tubes for inspection and o-ring replacement if needed (recommended by Cummins).
'Want....smoke' - if planning on doing your own work on your CTD, I strongly recommend getting the Dodge Field Service Manual for your yr! Invaluable tool with lots of pics!
Available HERERJ
Had not seen that thread before....excellent!
However, I recommend removing the fuel lines completely first. Not that much more work and lets you remove connecting tubes for inspection and o-ring replacement if needed (recommended by Cummins).
'Want....smoke' - if planning on doing your own work on your CTD, I strongly recommend getting the Dodge Field Service Manual for your yr! Invaluable tool with lots of pics!
Available HERE
RJ
However, I recommend removing the fuel lines completely first. Not that much more work and lets you remove connecting tubes for inspection and o-ring replacement if needed (recommended by Cummins).
'Want....smoke' - if planning on doing your own work on your CTD, I strongly recommend getting the Dodge Field Service Manual for your yr! Invaluable tool with lots of pics!
Available HERERJ
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 23
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From: Hampton Roads Va area as of June 2010.
Thanks
Thanks to all of you guys that helped and gave info. I'm going to get one of those manuals I guess and the video really helped plus the website with the pictures and write and then the useful tips from all of it! thanks again great info!!!
Put some grease on the nozzle to keep that darn pesky copper washer on the nozzle. It seems everytime I try to put in the #5 or #6, I drop that washer into the injector hole. Sometimes I see it drop off, sometimes I don't.
I just use a pry bar on the connector (cross) tube to pull them back far enough to wiggle out the injector, once you have removed the injector line nut. I second the idea, of just removing the injector line retainer bolts. Those back two near the fire wall, are long gone on my truck
, but you need a few of them, as the lines will rub together (ask me how I found that out).
I must have done 20-30 injector swaps, and there was only a few times that everything went smoothly. Its also nice to work on a motor that's hasn't been run or is still hot. I did one injector hot swap, when the injectors was still smoken abit. There are some hot hot parts under the hood.
I just use a pry bar on the connector (cross) tube to pull them back far enough to wiggle out the injector, once you have removed the injector line nut. I second the idea, of just removing the injector line retainer bolts. Those back two near the fire wall, are long gone on my truck
, but you need a few of them, as the lines will rub together (ask me how I found that out).
I must have done 20-30 injector swaps, and there was only a few times that everything went smoothly. Its also nice to work on a motor that's hasn't been run or is still hot. I did one injector hot swap, when the injectors was still smoken abit. There are some hot hot parts under the hood.
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I never understood how you guys did it, without a third hand to hold the fuel line out of the way!
.Never stop learning, I guess.
RJ
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