I would replace that boot before I made any purchases!!

 

Yeah, there's were A LOT of your cool air is going. That turbo's working as hard making 30-35 psi with a boost leak as mine is at 42psi, at least close anyway

Chris

 

Fix the boot and I bet most of your EGT problems go away.

 

You've got to be kidding....Right!!

That in itself could be causing your high EGT's. With the mods in my sig I have a hard time hitting 1250F lugging the motor.
If EGT's continue to be a problem after you fix the boot one other thing that would lower the temps would be to get rid of those sprinkler head DD3's for a more modern set of EDM's.

 

I am already running the 14 w/g housing. My combo is below. I can hit 1400 in 5th, empty, flat ground and my combo is in no way a fueling monster with the Banks Big Hoss, You may want to just get a different turbo and skip the housing swap. Plan for the future!

 

very good point Neil... a housing will only take you so far...

hence my recomendation for an ultra-cheap 18.5cm housing... IF your'e gonna go w/ a housing...

for the most part, your money would be better off going towards a real turbo.

Forrest

 

With the mods in my signature a 16cm housing had dang near the same EGT's as the factory 12w (so really hot) but it also put boost up to just over 50psi which is out of my comfort zone with a stock hx35 and a 200K headgasket so I put the 12w back on. I have a 21cm housing I'm going to try and I'm hoping to find a 18.5 somehwere too.

 

ok well the hole is not really 1"

i was looking at it tonight and its a slice thats about 1/2" long right at the metal flange on the I/C and most of the open part of the slice is under the clamp now that i readjusted it tonight...its a minimal to no leak at all now...

but i installed the Van Aaken V5 and now the trucks EGT's climb twice as fast, and the boost will only get to 20psi where before i was seeing 32psi.

i am so confused, and now the check engine light is on...so tomorrow night i am gonna take the VA back off and see if the check engine light goes off. the boost has me baffled...i cant see why id lose 10psi with adding a box

 

well after purposely trying to get it hot last night i realized i cant get it over 1350 unless i sit at 2900-3200rpms in 5th gear for more than 7-10 seconds

just in case that leak is still causing issues which i am 99% sure after last night is not leaking much air at all anymore, i am still gonna order 4 new high temp high strength boots and clamps and be done with it.

i think i will just start saving for the complete turbo swap this summer, the clutch comes in a week or two and then a turbo and i'll be set to go.

i might even be getting a set of 5" stacks

 

Is any of this done on the PDR HX-35? Asking for someone thinking about buying the PDR. Piers web site isn't real clear on what all they modify in the 35?

Does the same advise go for the 16cm2 housing from PDR..."don't do it"?

RJ

 

Which PDR Twins?? Street or Towing?

The 16cm housing on a HX 40 is wastegated. The HX35 16 cm is non wastegated.

Yes the divider is modified on the PDR HX 40 16 cm w/g w/ HT3B 26 cm non w/g housing. aka "Street Twins" (Talked to Dee Rawson, he has PDR "Street Twins")

I am almost sure that if they modify the HX40 wastegated housing, they will modify the HX35 wastegated housings. (In a staged turbo configuration)

 

Not the twins...I was asking what Piers does to the single HX-35.

RJ

 

I don't think he was talking about twins...just a PDR HX-35.

I would say don't waste your money on a built 35 unless it has a 40 compressor wheel...the PDR only has a 58mm wheel if memory is correct, you can get up to 60mm.

Chris

 

My mistake,

I do not know if he modify's the w/g on the PDR 35.

One call would clear this up quite quickly.



Justin