Well after I found a little oil leak at the front just under the head .I decided to geterdone. I know that this has all been discussed before but am trying to nail this the first time.

I haven't had time to call Doug, so I thought Id ask here.

The plans are as follows......


Head studs (have them already) $400
Deck and Oring the head ( I think I found a guy in Sandwich Ill. that can do it) $350
Modified 12 valve head gasket ( not sure what size).
And possibly a cam from formula one. Helix 2 $750 ( I think )
Now I guess this means I also will need springs. $650
I will also be replacing soma of the seals on the front of the motor and vacuum pump seal.
So I need to know what size gasket and some of the part numbers for the seals. And is there something else I can do to the head while I'm at it?


Dam shopping list keeps getting larger.
This site has helped me save allot , (but also cost me allot )
Thanks ahead of time for all the help....

 

Recommend 'bolt on system' for the cam shaft... additional $200.00
http://www.f1diesel.com/helixspecs.html

Also recommend the after market springs... if headed for more hp.

Key to the o-ring, IMO, is the quality of the cutting job. Make sure your going somewhere that knows the difference. Many first timers and DIY types have had to redo.

RJ

 

The guy has done alot of gasser heads I know for sure. But Im not sure if he has done many diesel heads. My father inlaw recomended him. My father inlaw builds small forien race motors.
Now $250 for the bolt on is ontop of the $750 for the press on cam?
And I do plan on more power, but just from turbo,(or turbos) not drugs.
Man I hate spending $650 on springs but I know it needs to be done. Now will this let the motor go to 4000 rpm? And if so what other concerns will I have?
I dont plan on p-pump it but am going to go with F1 6's or 7's.
I know that this alot of questions , but I like to do it write the first time.
Ive allready bought the wrong injectors Nice injectors for the price but not the quallity that I wanted.
Thanks again.


Off subject but I think I may have the comp verson of the tstpm3. It seems to fuel allthe way to 3200+ rpm's. How could I check this?
I bought this from cummins4x4power.

 

Going to 4000 rpm? Cam & springs will allow it, but may not be best. What you will get is a much wider max power band... say from 2600 to 3300, instead of stock power band of 2500-2900 +/-.

If you have TST Comp version it should have ugly (IMO) orange face (lable) instead of grey.... but best to get SN# and call TST to confirm if upgraded. Regular TST PM3 also fuels to 3200 rpm.

$200 more for Bolt on is correct. Don't know about press on cause I was not interested in that one.

I have springs but no cam yet. Agree with no need for P-pump. I prefer the FASS filters over stock, anyway.

Also agree with you on your Injectors... JMO.

RJ

 

Might want to port the head while you have it off!! It will help egt by 100-200. Help lower boost and let it breathe.

 

Thats quite a range 1.6's or 7's. I hope you mean 1.6 with the single and 7 when you get twins.

Look into a fluidamper if you want to spin a lot of rpms too so you won't be stressing the motor as hard with torsional vibrations (yes I cut and pasted those last two words in )

The thing about rpms is you won't make more power revving high but it can be adventagous in racing or pulling just so you can stretch a gear out. With that said I want to do the same thing on my 6 speed, but rpms would be a fringe benefit. Rather than rpms I'd be looking for spoolup, widened power range, lower egts, and the gear on the cam to run a mechanical cummins pump

 

I think he means that he's going to go with Don's F1 mach 6's or 7's.

 

95Ram was looking into this recently and it might actually be 3000 =\

Would you think the bolt on is necessary on a daily driver with occasional hot rod tendencies? Care to speak on press on vs bolt on? How often do folks see cam failures??

 

Yeah I did mean Either a 6's or 7's. And spinning to 4000 and being able to pull that gear just that little bit extra is what I'm hoping for. The more I'm around diesel trucks the more I love the capabilities of them.
This might sound crazy, but this old girl may end a devoted drag truck. I have been hinting around to the wife that a new 4x4 would be nice. It all depends on the housing market in the next year.
Back to the question at hand. I still haven't heard which thickness of gasket to go with. I may need to wait till the machine shop is done milling the head, but am not real sure. My experience lies in suspensions not motors. Now I do agree about porting the head, but will the machine shop do that?
sorry for all the Questions . I'm not the sharpest tool , just a tool!!!!


Oh yea could someone explain fire rings. Dose my block need to be worked on as well?

 

If the headgasket aint leaking now I wouldnt touch it.
Stud it and go. Then do the work when it fails.

I have read several reports of engine getting rings or whatever and then having sealing problems.
I had that happen to me. Had a head O ringed and decked. Then it developed a leak. The original head and gasket never blew.
The O ringed head and gasket would never seal up correctly again(after multiple gasket replacements). I ended up selling the truck.

I'll never O ring again.

 

all o-ring jobs are not the same... my o-ring grooves are cut on a mill... not sure the tolerance, but I'm betting it's less than a thou.

I know the old hand-groove tools can have a couple thou variance from one side to the other...

if that variance is lop-sided from cylinder to cylinder, you can definately have sealing problems. another thing to consider is protrusion... if you've got .015-.020" protrusion, you're gonna have to torque the snot out of the fasteners, and probably have to retorque often.

.008-.010" not so much.

I think I've got .010" protrusion, one re-torque after the first heat cycle... I've probably got another 10 cycles on it right now... this weekend I'll be re-torquing again... I'm paranoid after all that work, so I'll be retorquing often till I'm confident that the gasket is good and squished

 

Go with 7's a plenty of air. I'm runnina 10 over have never had the first problem with only 3 or 4 retorques - can't remember. You should be quite alright going with that. The bolt on gear with the cam is the only way to go btw - that extra reassurance comes in handy when you start twisting those RPM's up.

 

Well I am going on thursday to meet with a guy My father in law uses for the race cars he works on. I will discusse what gasket to order.

I am defenetly Oringing the head.

I do have a leak from the head but it is external as far as I can tell.

I am getting excited. I almost cant wait.