Is there a breaking-in period for a new head & headgasket? Is it quantified by time or mileage or boost pressure? I'm not touching the lower end, just getting a new head. I plan on changing oil after 500 miles, but didn't know if there was a break-in period for the new head. Of course, I'd like to run it up to 75 PSI the first time out, but figured I'd check it over with y'all first.

thanks,
brandon.

 

As long as you don't run it up so high that you float the valves, it won't "break-in" Nah, run the soot out of it....

 

I wasn't sure what else to call the period when the head and valves are getting aquainted. I asked Keith @ DD if he thought that my 99 would need different valve springs with their cam and his reply was no. Thanks for the input... I take it that you'll do the same snot beating once your long block is back in?

As a side note, you have any pics of the custom mount for your FASS? I realize you don't have a bed, but figured that I could get some ideas. I'm thinking of a 1/4" steel skid plate with a piece of round baler belting to shield the back from slush & road debris.

brandon.

 

Here is how mine is mounted. It is under the drivers side rear of the cab. On a truck with a bed it would mount higher I beleive and not need a skid plate. The gray wire is not part of it, thats the CB antenna feed.

 

and another one

 

Brandon, I hand lap the valves to their companion seats after I cut the seats with a carbide cutter to get the seat width I like. After they are lapped I test them overnight with light oil for any little leaks. No seats are a better fit! No break in or waiting for them to get seated for instant sealing. Its ready to rock right out of the crate.

No re-torque, etc. is needed either. Just bolt it on and go!!

The cam is a different story. You need to break it in good. 20 minutes at high idle ( 1800-2200 rpm sitting still ) Change the oil after the break in. Then change it again at 500 miles.

Don~

 

Excellent pics! (did i just high-jack my own thread? ) I'm thinking that maybe just 1/8" rubber around both filters & pump would keep most of the corrosive salt and grime off the filter. I was concerned that filters hanging 2" off the bottom of the frame would be a hazard if I ever got hung up somewhere off road. Hmmm... I'll definately post the mount when I get around to building it during my vacation next week.

thanks again!
brandon.

 

Don he did not say anything about a cam, so glad you replied.

Question, with a new long block, should I do the same?

 

Sweet! I can't wait to see the head next Wednesday! I'm excited to get this thing together!

Does the 1800 - 2200 mean that I should vary the engine speed or center the RPM in the range and leave it for 20 minutes? Would it be better to break in the new cam with the stock injectors & HX35? Or go ahead with the mach injectors & twins? In the computer world, we build out one component at a time and once it's working fine, change the next part. I'm glad I'm working with a good diesel mechanic and my grandpa or I'd be placing this work in the care of the professionals.

brandon.

 

For the new head question.

Get it all back together and start it up.
Wait until operating temp before driving it around.

I tested my new gasket for leaks by taking it out after warming it up and and hitting 40lbs of boost!!



--Justin