Well, I wasn't getting any cooperation out of Mother Nature, so I finally called up my old man and borrowed his garage this weekend (my truck won't fit under my garage door ). I got the full pillar ProPod and Issopro mech. FP/boost/pyro gauges. ProPod fits like a glove. Pyro guage - drill, tap, run wires, piece of cake. Boost gauges - run tubing, install fittings in intake manifold, piece of cake. FP gauge - drain filter cannister, replace banjo bolt with tapped banjo, install needle vavle, run SS line, hook up gauge, refill filter cannister, bleed air from SS line, total PITA!!!!

That stinkin' filter cannister is buried!! I can barely reach the drain valve lever (standing on tippy toes and leaning over the fender), I can't believe they acutally suggest draining the water every fill up and then bury the sucker like that. Anyway, there just doesn't seem to be any easy way to get to that banjo on the bottom of the filter can.

FP is at 13.5 to 14 at idle, about 11 at cruising speed, and down to about 7 to 8 at WOT.

Boost reads about 7 psi at cruise and about 20 psi at WOT.

EGT's are about 325°F at idle and hit about 1050°F at WOT empty climbing a slight grade.

 

Numbers look good to me, congrats. I know exactly how you feel about the fuel container, but imagine that plus 4.5" of lift with 35's....


Hunter

 

Many folks put the tapped banjo at the the VP injection pump instead of using the one on the canister.

I love my '99.

 

Should have left the air in the braided line, no reason to bleed it. The air only makes it run smoother.

 

well, as it turns out, I only hand tightened the swivel fitting on the SS line at the gauge (forgot to snug it with the wrench). So when I opened the needle valve, it was a self-bleeding process.

On average, how many turns open should the needle valve be? just cracked? 1/4 turn? more? less?

Where mine is sitting right now, I have a smooth, steady reading. No needle bounce or "pulsing" at all.

I used the banjo on the bottom of cannister at the advice of the vendor I bought the setup from. I didn't know where would be the best location, asked them and was told the bottom of the cannister was the place to put it. It was by far the most difficult part of the entire install trying to get in there to work, but the spot is fairly protected as well.

When I closed the drain valve after draining the filter cannister, I closed the valve, but did not notice that the valve hung open. When I bumped the starter to activate the lift pump to refill the cannister, it diesel fuel all over the garage floor.

 

The needle valve should be cracked open just enough to get a good reading when starting and a quick bleed-off when shutting down.

 

OK, both of those conditions are met and I have no surging (needle bounce) so I guess it's good to go.

 

It sould be OK then.
If you start getting any "buzzing", just shut the needle valve down a tic and try again.

 

Where can I buy a needle valve at? I'm getting the mechanical Isspro FP gauge as well and I want to isolate that pulsing crap. Thanks for the help.

 

If you leave the air in the line, and configure it so that the air does not come out, you will not need a valve. Get all the air out of the braided line, loop it over the master cylinder and then to the gage, the air stays in, the action is smooth, the air dampens it.

 

My braided line is routed as HID has suggested, except I auto-bled the braided line. I'm sure you could source one locally at a NAPA or hardware store, etc. I bought my Isspro gauges from Wildcat Diesel and got their mechanical FP install "kit" as well. It comes with a high flow tapped banjo bolt, 2 banjo gaskets, a 1/8 npt male to 1/8 npt female needle valve, a 1/8 npt to AN 90° fitting, a long (can't remember exact length) SS braided line with AN female swivel fittings on both ends and a AN to 1/8 npt adapter to hook up to the gauge.

The needle valve looks just like the one pictured in Shovelhead's post above.