Gauge Help
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From: Hicktown USA aka Perry County
Gauge Help
I am getting gauges as soon as i find out what type i need i have a 97 auto 4x4 and the only thing done is the plate is foward and star wheel is all the way. So what gauges should i look into i know pyro trans temp and boost. But pre turbo? How high/low degrees? how much boost? what kind of trans temp? and what type of mounting? does anyone know about the 3 gauge dash mount? or go with the pillar mount? the dash mount is at[URL=http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/cgi-bin/search.pl/dieselshop]
You have the right idea with the pyrometer. The other gauges are nice, but not as critical as the pyro.
I would recommend you install the pyro pre-turbo, as it responds faster in that location. The downside is that it is possible to burn off the pyro and send it through an expensive turbo, but I have yet to see that actually happen. Pre-turbo you want to keep your EGT's at 1250 degrees F for sustained driving, but you can safely pull hard at 1375 for a few minutes at a time without melting our pistions, if you use a good synthetic oil like Amsoil or Red Line. The oil squirts on the inside of the piston crowns, from the bottom, and cools them. Dyno oil will coke and drop carbon into your oil system and eventually plug the nozzles that cool the pistons if you run it that hot.
Your boost will not be that much until you install a performance fuel plate, I would expect you will see maybe 23 lbs on a really hard pull with the configuration you have.
The transmission temperature depends on the oil you use, and if an automatic or standard. I have no problem at all running a standard at 220 degrees F. The automatics are a different story. You need to know what kind of oil is being used, and then if it still has stock seals and frictions or has the good aftermarket products. It is wise to keep a stock automatic with OEM type ATF below 300 degrees F.
I would recommend you install the pyro pre-turbo, as it responds faster in that location. The downside is that it is possible to burn off the pyro and send it through an expensive turbo, but I have yet to see that actually happen. Pre-turbo you want to keep your EGT's at 1250 degrees F for sustained driving, but you can safely pull hard at 1375 for a few minutes at a time without melting our pistions, if you use a good synthetic oil like Amsoil or Red Line. The oil squirts on the inside of the piston crowns, from the bottom, and cools them. Dyno oil will coke and drop carbon into your oil system and eventually plug the nozzles that cool the pistons if you run it that hot.
Your boost will not be that much until you install a performance fuel plate, I would expect you will see maybe 23 lbs on a really hard pull with the configuration you have.
The transmission temperature depends on the oil you use, and if an automatic or standard. I have no problem at all running a standard at 220 degrees F. The automatics are a different story. You need to know what kind of oil is being used, and then if it still has stock seals and frictions or has the good aftermarket products. It is wise to keep a stock automatic with OEM type ATF below 300 degrees F.
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