Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

gauge? 60/30psi, pyro probe bf/after turbo?

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Old Jan 13, 2006 | 10:34 PM
  #1  
jaypry's Avatar
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gauge? 60/30psi, pyro probe bf/after turbo?

I just bought an '01 3500 H.O. 6 speed, Its my first dodge. I plan on a Pac-brake and Magnaflow 4 inch stainless exhaust. Some day I will boost power with a "chip" but first I want a dual gauge pillar mounted. I'm leaning toward the Issapro gauges, and I think that the pyrometer probe should be after the turbo, but I'm not sure. Also what will these 24-valve motors boost with a stock turbo and some small mods. not sure witch boost gauge to go with 60psi or 30psi.

thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 06:33 AM
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From: fredericksburg, virginia
Preturbo will show spikes that don't show post turbo- sometimes a 300-500 difference. The stock turbo with the wastegate will run about 20 lbs of boost, but the wategate can be disabled to get over 30.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 08:38 AM
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From: Belvidere, NJ
It preferred to have it pre-turbo because your know when its too hot. Readings are generally quicker too. Post-turbo is better than nothing IMO, I had it there for a while, did the job, but I like it pre-turbo better.

I personally wouldn't go with a 30lb boost gauge for the simple reason I can't leave anything alone. I'd have it pegged in no time, don't worry you'll get bite by the performance bug too.

I'd also recomend a fuel pressure gauge too. So you might want to think about a 3 gauge pillar or another mounting location. Your learn very quickly by reading post here that the electric lift pump is not the most reliable unit out there and when it goes the VP-44 injection pump is usually not far behind if you don't catch it right away.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 08:55 AM
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From: God's Country (Castle Rock, Co)
Originally Posted by JD730
It preferred to have it pre-turbo because your know when its too hot. Readings are generally quicker too. Post-turbo is better than nothing IMO, I had it there for a while, did the job, but I like it pre-turbo better.

I personally wouldn't go with a 30lb boost gauge for the simple reason I can't leave anything alone. I'd have it pegged in no time, don't worry you'll get bite by the performance bug too.

I'd also recomend a fuel pressure gauge too. So you might want to think about a 3 gauge pillar or another mounting location. Your learn very quickly by reading post here that the electric lift pump is not the most reliable unit out there and when it goes the VP-44 injection pump is usually not far behind if you don't catch it right away.
Agreed! You need a Fuel Pressure gauge.

P.S. Welcome to the DTR!
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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From: Simi Valley, Calif.
I installed my pyro preturbo for better readings of the temps.
Iv got a 60#boost. I may never need it but just incase.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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From: Laredo
Hmm on this matter

i have a 30 psi gauge.. no no no no no.. too easily pegged with our trucks. I could go PRE turbo on the pyro, much better EGT reading and no second guessing. IE add 400 or so when its post turbo, and on the PSI id go 60 PSI, its better to have left over than to need more and wonder..


Tx
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 02:15 PM
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From: Rogers, Arkansas
Definately get a 60 PSI boost gauge. Even when I was stock and my range went to 21, it was still easy to see where I was. It was not too big of a range. Get the 30 PSI fuel guage too, not a 15 PSI like some suggest.

Think about it, our speedo goes to 120, but we consider ourselves able to distinguish between 35 and 36 MPH in a speed zone. Get bigger range gauges.

Happy bombing.
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Old Jan 14, 2006 | 02:51 PM
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I think that I will for sure get the 60 psi boost gauge. I had planned on installing a 7psi warning light, for low fuel pressure, along with an extra lift pump on the frame rail by the fuel tank. when I put the pyro probe before the turbo that means that I should remove turbo before I drill hole for probe, I wouldn't want small drilled chunks going thru the turbo. I realize after the turbo you add 200-300 degs. It has worked after the turbo on my Dad's '69 pete logg truck for the last 20 years he's had it. he says the probes last a lot longer after the turbo as well. The Isspro gauge I like shows a yellow zone starting at 850, and a red zone starting at 1050degs, these would be safe numbers to live by wouldn't they. thanks for all of your help, I've worked on big cummins down to helping to fuel time them, just never on little electric controled cummins.

thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 12:45 AM
  #9  
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From: Coolidge, GA
Originally Posted by jaypry
The Isspro gauge I like shows a yellow zone starting at 850, and a red zone starting at 1050degs, these would be safe numbers to liive by
they will be safe in stock form but once you bomb it the egt's will rise fast..... in close to stock trim i could barely get over 1050 empty and maybe 1150 loaded.... then in my previous state i could do 1200 empty and about 1300 slightly loaded..... now i can hit 1400 empty like it's nothing i'm gonna hate to see what it'll do loaded...... i've heard 1250 is a safe stopping point but can spike over for very brief moments without too bad concequenses ie drag racing, sled pulling, prolly climbing a nice grade..... i always make sure not to pass 1250 towing.... normally it would stay at around 800-950 towing but climing a grade is when it went to 1250 or so..... just keep an eye on it and be reasonable.....
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 01:38 AM
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
60lb boost, and PRE turbo. Running with it after the turbo in the downpipe is just a guessing game if you ask me, and for the same money, definatley get the 60lb gauge. My truck would have pegged a 30psi gauge ever since it had just the fuel plate. Do it right so you dont have to do it again when you add more power

As for drilling the pyro.. I just loosened only the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold and stuck a little cardboard in between the manifold/turbo. Got what i could out with a magnet, and then started the truck for a second to let the rest of the shaving's blow out. Tighten the turbo back up, and you are ready to go.

Eric
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:36 AM
  #11  
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Go with 60lb boost gauge(mine tops out at 35-36 psi boost on a 60lb gauge), put probe pre-turbo(much more accurate especially when bombed). Turbo can be drilled out while left on truck, just use grease on drill and tap, and a magnet to get out shavings. If you stay around 1200f even when towing, you will be fine, but you may have to mod your wastegate to get higher boost #'s(and a boost fooler), to keep egt's in check, especially once you add a box or injectors.
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