I have a DiPricol FP gauge which does work. And at times, works well. It is attached to the schrader on the IP thru an isolator. On the gauge side if the isolator is anti-freeze, per the install instructions. when I installed it and filled the line with AF, the gauge worked well. For some time. And then it started acting up. Finally, it just wouldn't read at all. Checked the FP at the IP and had plenty (have already replaced the LP once). So I left it until I could look at it. Pulled the trimwork off and sure enough there was air in the line. So a buddy and I filled the line again and did a credible job at getting it full. sure enough, the FP gauge came back to life. And worked well. For some time. But it has again started acting up. There are occasions when it will read 14# at idle and other times it will be 0. 10# under load, 5# under load and sometimes 0. I have to think that I've got air again although I can't detect a leak.

Anyone else have odd experiences like this??

Oh.. That, and even after putting an evap in my A/C system, my charge is gone again..... DARNED dealership service!

 

go ahead and find some new tubing and fittings. re-route and fill up again with a needle and syringe. I haven't had one leaking yet but if I do it's just as easy to replace the line. Good luck.

 

Are you filling the line or just the top of the isolator? If you just fill the isolator, it will suck the fluid up into the line and the guage will stop working. It may take 2 or 3 times filling the isolator to get enough fluid in there.

 

Ah ha! Filling the isloator... NOT something I think we considered.... Hmmm.....

 

If I remember you are suposed to stick the eraser end of a pencil in the isolator gauge side port and gently push the diaphram down so the capacity is larger. Fill with anti freeze then hook up your line to the port. Conect the fuel side and bleed fuel then bleed the air out of the antifreeze line at the guage fitting . Worked for me . No problems with my isolator. The gauge side still has some air bubble put it doesnt mater.

 

So I take it you filled the line, and not the isolator? Easiest way I have found is take a 20 oz. soda bottle, remove the cap and drill a tiny hole in it, fill the bottle with antifreeze, and put the cap back on. Now you can fill the isolator by squeezing the bottle, and not make a big mess.

 

Surprised no one has recommended the best way to solve your problem-
replace the isolator with a coupling, throw the isolator in the trash. Then it won't matter if there is air in the line.
Why have a gauge that fails more often than the system it's supposed to be monitoring?

 

AMEN BROTHER!

As has been posted many time before, you can also add a needle valve to eliminate any gauge noise and be a shut-off in the unlikely event of a leak.

 

I had that problem. I refilled the line a couple of times then I got rid of the isolator. Easiest fix for the problem!

 

Can someone expand on this "bleeding the isolator".

I bought and installed the Optix gauges from DieselManor and nowhere did I find instructions on the isolator.

I installed my isolator with the big screw towards the fuel pressure. My gauge reads 17psi idling (Walbro 391) and 15psi accellerating.

 

You beat me to it Infidel.

 

Bingo. My isolator failed, as they ALL do eventually. Just go direct with quality plumbing and it's a non-issue.

Hint, plastic tubing with compression fittings is NOT "quality" plumbing. The only leak I've ever had was due to this.

With grease gun hose and braided line, never a problem.


Here's a hint: If you have a truck that does NOT have the tweeters on the pillar, get a guage pod that does. The tweeter hole is 1.5", a perfect size for a cheap little liquid filled FP guage like those sold my Summit and Jegs. Under $20 for a reliable, glycerin-filled gauge.

I much prefer this to the 2" lighted Hewitt I had in there before. The Hewitt turned out to be a piece of crap. I bought my gauge and isolator kit from Enterprise Engine, and surprisingly they were both junk.

I love my little Jeg's FP guage, and it frees up the third hole in the pillar for something else-- oil pressure, temp, whatever...

JH