I'll probably be sliding my stock fuel plate forward this weekend and have a few questions. Are most of you satisfied with sliding a stock plate forward? I have done a search and am not really clear on the AFC housing being slid forward vs cranking starwheel towards engine. Will either give the same results or is both necessary? What can I do to increase my boost and is this something that has to be done immediately after sliding plate forward to get lower EGT's? There has been some good info on this posted by Infidel just not sure exactly what I'm in for but looks pretty straight forward. I do have gauges for monitoring.
I was impressed this weekend after a 160 mile pull with my 19 ft boat.. got 16.2 mpg and would hold 65-70 mph easily and that's about as fast as I care to pull a load Best out of my X 03 CTD pulling the boat was 14-15 mpg.

 

You will want to slide the AFC housing full forwad as well. If you don't, slding the plate won't have much effect. Adjusting the starwheel only adjusts the off boost fueling and smoke.

Adding fuel will increase the boost some, but will need a boost elbow or a needle valve to help keep the wastegate shut longer to make more boost.

 

What type and size fitting can I use to make a boost elbow?

 

From Piers-

PDR1410001 Turbo Boost Control Elbow $35.00

Or TST- http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=33

1/8" NPT on the elbow.

 

think of the AFC housing and star wheel as the coarse adjustment and the fine adjustment...

The AFC housing adjustment changes the relative position of the AFC arm to the governor arm. Sliding the housing fwd moves the arm at the same rate. This provides more swing room for the gov arm and hence more pre-boost fuel. The only time the gov arm will swing into the AFC (or fuel plate for that matter) is when the throttle is stabbed, or at W.O.T. The star wheel doesn't change the position of the AFC arm. What it does do is pre-load the diaphram that acts on the AFC lever. This diaphram is boost influenced, and by preloading it with the star wheel a spring holds back against the diaphram and the end result is more boost required to overcome the pre-load. By turning the starwheel fwd, we remove this preload, or lessen it anyway depending on how far it is adjusted. This allows the diaphram to move at a lower boost figure, and as a result the AFC arm is moved away from the governor arm and full fueling can occur. So even though the housing setting is a static position adjustment, and star wheel is a dynamic boost curve adjustment, they can still be thought of as coarse and fine. By adjusting them both full fwd, you have achieved the maximum allowable pre-boost fuel curve possible...until you gut the housing that is, but that's another topic. You will probably find this to be a smoky adjustment, so from there you can adjust them accordingly to achieve a desired balance between low end power and smoke. After about 6-8 psi, the AFC has withdrawn the AFC arm and has nothing more to do with fueling until the boost signal falls below that threshold once again.

The benefit of allowing more pre-boost fuel is to build a little more heat in the cylinders, which will in turn get the turbine wheel spinning a little sooner and bring on boost lower in the power range. Hope this clears it up a little for you. And BTW, adjusting the star wheel fwd means to turn the top of the wheel towards the engine which will screw it towards the front of the truck.

Chris

 

Excellent post and photo! Thanks