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Fuel plate differences

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Old 10-21-2004, 09:30 PM
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Emailed TST and asked them.They said with a 16cm that I should have no problem gettin 350Hps and about 770 torque at the rear wheels, if the clutch could hold it.

They said that I shouldn't have a problem over boostin or high EGTs with the 16cm housin.

The also said that the 180s would be fine that really the 191s would over do it.They also said that I could get a litte more the plaet full foward but it would raise the EGTs alot for just a little more power.

It's still gonna be a little while before I get a truck (I'm not in huge hurry) as I turn 18 in Feb and I think I'll just go get the loan in my name so I'll have some time to save up for the mods.

Ok one more question.I hear about these Hybrid hX35/hx40 turbos, what are they?
Old 10-21-2004, 10:23 PM
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When I would move my #11 from full foward to 1/8" back it was like night and day with both EGT's and power. Full foward I would bury the pyro in no time, 1/8" back and I could run it almost WOT up hills on the highway pulling the car and trailer and it would barely get to 1400. Empty I could put it to the wood for a while and only see 1250.

John
Old 10-22-2004, 05:07 AM
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Alright so I got one more question about fuel plates. Why is the #10 so good? On TSTs site it provides less power than the lower numbers. I currently have a #4 in my truck slid forward and I love it. It fuels hard from off idle and pulls all the way till the 3K GSK starts to pull it back. What about a #0 or #100 that I've heard about.
Old 10-22-2004, 05:39 AM
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When people say their fuel plate is full forward are they talking about the firewall or the radiator?
Old 10-22-2004, 05:51 AM
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Radiator.

John
Old 10-22-2004, 06:54 AM
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DO NOT pay attention to the power #'s that are listed for the plates. They assume the plate is in the stock position. Move a plate forward and it changes everything. Remember, the plate is just a fuel stop. Move it forward and you increase the maximum fuel delivery. A #10 full forward is a monster and it will destroy a stock converter or clutch quickly - it makes that much torque.
Old 10-22-2004, 07:01 AM
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Thanks, I put the TST plate on my dad's 98 it's the 605ft/lb I think.
Old 10-23-2004, 03:53 PM
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So are you saying that a #10 plate makes more power than the #4 I have now if they are both slid forward? I guess there is no way to tell without buying a #10 and trying it out. The next plate I buy is gonna be a #0 or #100 when I put on my twin turbo kit.
Old 10-28-2004, 04:01 PM
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Okay lets throw this up in the air

95 5psd 4:10

Bd Hx 40
# 10 Slid up
370s
cut 181's
Banks twin ram
5 inch straights
AFC Spring
4k gsk
Any thoughts, Before the gsk , 181's,afc spring, and the number 10 it had a number 8 and would easily hit 40+ at about 1100 deg.
What would you think this truck would make on the dyno?
Thanks
Old 10-28-2004, 06:04 PM
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Couple things. The #8 out fuels the #10 ... lower #, more fuel. The #8 supplies its fuel @ higher rpm. The #10 just supplies more @ lower rpm than it does @ higher rpm.

If you go to the 4k gov springs, you need beefier valve springs.
Old 10-28-2004, 09:28 PM
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Forrest,
I was planning on going with just 3k but they sent 4k instead. I just didnt feel like fighting with putting them in. I got to looking at the post about gunracers Plate, So i orderd a 10 as a back up plate, I'm going to cut the 8 To most likely a 0. 0 Flat all the way accross. Im not sure though, im just playin around with alot of diffrent combos right now. I dont have the money for the head or twins. when i get those im going to a piers stupid pump.
Are you happy with the 100 plate, or would you think 0 would be better?
Any Prefrences?
I would love to put 3.73's under this truck but no money right now!
Thanks for the info !
LCU
Old 10-28-2004, 10:40 PM
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The reason for the #100 was the #0. I had the #0 in for quite a while, fun plate alright. In the 215 pump, it really makes the drivetrain & cab groan.

The reason I had the #100 designed was to limit the low end fuel. The #0 allows the pump to put out max fuel @ low rpm which raises EGT too much in my case. Rpm just can't get rid of it. Adding that ramp @ the bottom of the #0 lets the fuel ramp up as the rpm goes up ... reduces EGT & I believe increases acceleration. If I had twins, the #0 would be going back in.

Good idea on the stoopid pump. Lots of R & D went into it ... great product.

On the 3:73s ... consider going straight to the 3:54s. Should be able to come by in the junk yard. With the torque that these animals put out, 3:54 works well towing for me. I tow about 7k lbs.
Old 10-29-2004, 08:52 AM
  #43  
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I think ill leave the ramp on my old plate and try it, i might go 0 i dont know. Since im running the small pump it might not be as bad as far as egts. But , just as i found out with sliding the 8 up , it would slow acceleration quite a bit. I guess ill just play with it will i get what i want. My 8 Plate is more aggressive than the 10 thats in right now, but all around gives me much less fuel.
I had looked at gear vendors website and seen you could go 3:73 or 3:54. I live in the mtns but it dosent look like ill be towing anyway till i get twins and a head so i probably will go with 3:54. How much would you think i would have to give for a good set put in?
Also, How much power would you think this truck would push set up like this?
Thanks
Old 10-29-2004, 04:58 PM
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Originally posted by CTD NUT

I would go with the 16cm wastegated housing and you should be good for an easy 350hp without going into a fit of egt paranoya.

I assume you mean 16cm w/g for the '40?

All the 16 housings for '35s I've seen are non-wg...
Justin
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