AggiePhil

...or maybe not. I don't know. But here's what I'm looking to do...

I'm looking to build an ignition center in my overhead console. There will be two toggle switches, one on/off, one momentary. I ultimately want the momentary switch to crank the starter. I would LIKE the on/off switch to turn on accessories (and be necessary to crank the starter with the momentary switch), but I would also be alright with it just acting in series with the momentary start switch.

How do y'all think this could be done?

4doogie

I dont know how, sounds like you gotta tap into the ignition wires and re-rout them. It sounds like a cool idea, I can see it now. You get into your truck and put the key in, reach up and press a button and crank her over, oooooo ooooooo and I have the perfect on/off switch. I have one of those switches with the plastic cover over them to make them look like a missile switch. sweet, think if someone tried to steal your truck, they would never figure out how it starts.

AggiePhil

Well, I don't think I would re-route the ignition wires. I was thinking that I'd basically just add a bypass in the wiring that would ALLOW ignition with the toggles, but not require it. Exactly HOW I am to do this is what I'm asking you guys.

Yep! I'm planning on using covered toggles. Like this one:

SmokinFive9 4x4

STAT, either way is pretty simple for the starter switch. If you want to retain the original start function of the key, then you just add a seperate circuit from the ACC side of the fuse box to the switch then to the starter solenoid. That way either way would work. If you don't want the key to work anymore then you need to cut the two wires that goto the key in the column and run each one to your new switch.

The ACC switch you want to run is fairly easy to do as well. Add a relay in the feed wire from the key to the ACC side of the fuse box and wire your switch to the low amp side of your relay. Feed the switch from a source that's always hot, and then run the other side of the switch to the relay. That way the key and the switch need to be activated in order for any of the accessories to run. Just be sure to get a relay big enough to handle the amp load of your electrical system.

AggiePhil

SmokinFive! Yes! Some great directions here! Let me just ask for some clarification on a few points...

Where is the "ACC side of the fuse box" and where exactly is the starter solenoid?

How big would the relay need to be? I don't know much about relays, but I've hooked up a standard Bosche auto relay when I installed my alarm/remote start system.

4doogie

Nice picture, That was exactly what I was thinking of. Now your getting me thinking LOL . cool Idea, I wonder how people would react when they see you start your truck like that. My friends would look at me and shake their heads. Good luck keep us posted how it works.

AggiePhil

While I'm waiting for SmokinFive9 to reply...

I'm actually looking to have quite a few switches, including the two ignition switches. I'm going to have this console going down the middle overhead area:



...and this console right above my head in place of the sun visor, facing me:



But I'm going to replace the switches on it with blank pieces of plastic so I can mount my own switches and placards there.

Haulin_in_Dixie

One source of fairly heavy and easy to get relays are the older (80's) GM air conditioning blower relays. They are made for constant on and can be stacked in parallel, although I don't think this is necessary as the system already has relays, just need to trace the wires and a light duty relay or relays set up. I have given some thought to replacing the headlight switch with a series of toggles, seperating the running lights from the head lights. It would also be a project as there is a bunch of circuits. A couple of trucks that I had, the instrument lights came on with the ignition instead of the park lights. That leaves you with three toggle switches, interior, head, and marker lights.

SmokinFive9 4x4

Well when I say that I don't mean literally the fuse box lol. Basically all you have to do is find a wire that's hot when the ignition's turned on. I know on my 1st gen they had prewired extensions that were marked "ACC" and had the female portion of a bullet connector on them, not sure about the 2nd gens, but with a test light you should be able to find something. The starter solenoid is actually on the starter.

Heres a diagram, maybe that'll help. The stud on the starter solenoid you want to hit is the one with the small wire. NOT the stud with the big wire from the battery. Haulin is right as well, I didn't think about it but, your truck probably already has relays in the feed to the Accesories so all you'd have to do is find it or them and make them turn on with the switch and not the key. Be advised though if you do that, anyone can turn on the accessories without the hey. If you don't want that and want the Key AND the switch to turn them on you'll just need to add a switch in the feed that goes from the key to the relay.

Catch all that lol? I'm probably one of the worse technical writers in the world, so bear with me. Anymore questions lemme know I'll try to clear it up.

infidel

Since you seem to be planning on lots of electrical modifications I would think it's time to break down and buy a factory service manual. Things electrical change with every model year, knowing the right color wires and their location is well worth the manual's price.
Buy one here https://techauthority.gltghosting.co...atalogId=10051

Don't think you'll need any relays, just wire in your new switches in parallel and use the existing relays. Might need two power on switches or one double pole as there is a B+ and B - circuit to the key switch.

HOHN

Geno's has the FSMs as well for a decent price.

jlh

AggiePhil

You know what I'm thinking guys? I have a DEI Python 881XP Remote Start/Alarm system that I installed myself and I'm thinking that with a little research, I can figure out how to put a switch going to the alarm's Remote Start Relay (which is a big ol' relay) and have that thing do all the work for me!

On the wiring diagram for the relay, I see three wires going into the relay that are of interest to me:

PINK (-) 200 mA ignition relay turn-on
ORANGE (-) 200 mA accessory relay turn-on
PURPLE (-) 200 mA starter relay turn-on

I'm not positive about this, but I would imagine that this means that if I supply separate negative pulses to each of these three wires, it will allow me to do exactly what I want to have it do. I'm not sure what order you would do them in because I can't seem to think of what the "ignition turn-on" would do and what the "starter turn-on" would do. Obviously, one of them should crank the engine, but I'm not sure which does it. I'm not thinking too straight right now. You guys can help me here. Anyway, if I did this, I'd just have to hope that sending a pulse to that relay doesn't somehow fry the brain of the alarm (since I'd be sending the pulse to a wire in the ribbon cable between the starter relay and the brain).

matthopp

Stat, I think what you are doing seems very interesting and is presents a little challenge. Great idea, but what are your reasons for doing the additional overhead start switch? How many / what type of extras do you have for all of these additional switches? I think it is pretty neat, I am just curious. Good Luck and Gig 'em

Smokee

JEEZ...this is like going back in time. That is how everything used to work. Just go to a tractor supply place. Also, run a cable to the fuel shutoff.

SmokinFive9 4x4

Smokee lol, I have the cable to the shutoff and the pushbutton start. I like it. Better than the price of the replacement solenoid that went out 2 days after the warranty. There's a key there, but basically all it does is unlock the steering column. Even if someone broke in, they'd never figure out how to start it, and if they figured the switches out somehow and got it to crank, they probably wouldn't ever think about the little pull out cable end in the bottom of the dash huh? Plus the security system lol. I still say it's safer than a key.