I have defended the argument that comp's and juices kill vp44's for a long time. I ran mine with either a comp or a juice for well over 100k miles with a stock lift pump. Last sunday it (vp) quit with no codes and no symptoms 3 miles after leaving the house with a cold engine. I pulled it an hour later, but did not get around to replacing it until today. I put on a good vp I had and it runs fine (Juice is connected). I was boxing up the used pump and noticed the wire that the screw in Edge Juice tap connects to was worn completely in two except for two or three strands of wire. I am going to contact Edge tommorrow and see if they have seen this before. I read the instructions when I installed the tap, and think it just wore through due to it's design. It could have had some damage from the scotch lock style tap with the comp, and then the screw in style juice tap just finished it off. Either way it was directly related to my aftermarket modifications and not the design of the pump itself.

 

Can you try for grins and giggles to solder in a new piece of wire and reinstall it?
Maybe your observation can help with a lot of pumps being replaced for just a simple faulty wire.

AlpineRAM

 

this is the exact reason bluechip sells the pump cover

 

my vp has been throwing codes and giving me the dead pedal every so often for about 3 months and I have a comp but I don't have the wire tapped. The vp was replaced about 30,000 miles ago; pretty sure the design is just bad

 

dont most solder the wire anyway and do away with that unprofesional, get-er-done tap?

 

I wish. That sucker is hard to get to. I used the TST tap to get to mine, but I worry about this sort of thing, mostly the wire corroding eventually, due to the moisture getting into the hole in the wire.

Chris

 

Chris are you going to the Diesel shoot out at Morgans Corner on the 28th?

I cant go I am the best man at a wedding, but also couldn't pull last weekend cause I got a shattered flex plate, Billit one on the way.

Hope to see you at a pull soon

Mark

 

Yes, and not at all to help people lie about modifications and warranty coverage

 

FWIW, you could have also used a Posi-tap instead of the cheap wire tap sent with the box. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't see this problem if you used one of those.

 

While I'm a fan of the posi-taps, I'm not sure that over the long term they too wouldn't damage the pump wire.

Soldering the wire is tricky, but it's the only REAL long term fix, imo.

jh

 

Don't know the posi tap. I still have not called Edge. I am not mad at Edge, just wish I had seen the wire before I switched out pumps, more folks might want to check theirs before replacing the pump.

 

Thanks for the tip. I had planned on soldering mine anyways.

I really hate the fuse taps that they use. Does anyone know if the #9 wire that they talk about needs to be +12 all the time or ignition switched?

 

Everyday Diesel Easy way to see if thats Hot all the time is to stick a test light or meter to it and see if its hot when the Key is off. if its not on make sure you test connection is good by turning key to see if it comes on. then you will know what it is.