I would like pictures of fueling plates and their corresponding number, can anyone help? It's a visual thing, ask my wife!!

 

I have a page with a #6, #8, and #10 on it.

Here's the link:

http://www.mayerfarmequipment.com/Stores/Chris-3.html

HTH,
Chris

 

ok i need clarification from u guys about what im looking at on those plates...obviosuly they're uspide down

anyhow the lever arm starts at the aoutside lip/tip correct?...as u add throttle it travels through that groove and each plate has a different groove correct? and then it terminates at that lil spike halfway down up the plate correct? so starts will little fuel...the depth of the groove determines amount of fueling and then it slightly defuels as it finishes on that lil spike right?...

so then i can see the "smoothness" that everyone is describing concerning the #10 since it is a smooth curve...it looks like it fuels alot harder at the beginning compared to the other plates ..is my observation correct?...whereas the #6 and 8 or whatever bring a sudden jolt of fuel

now in relation to the governor springs...stock springs will let me rev to 2700 or 2800 rpm...if i had a 10 plate with stock springs i would get the approximate "curve" of fueling that we see in the shape of the 10 plate from idle to 2800rpm right?? now if i had the 3k gsk then i would get that SAME curve but rather stretched out over 3500rpm right?? do i have this right?....

i wanna get all of this correct once and for all guys before i put anything in my truck

that being said then the main advantage of 3k or 4k gsk's would be to somewhat save the tranny or better match it to the engine output right?...and maybe a few smiles from the noise it makes right? so if we all had 1500rpm stalling torque converters and trannies that could take extra fueling then we'd never have a real need for the governor springs

i am through now and shall be quiet

 

And if you have a manual tranny, then what?
Dave

 

The governor springs will allow higher reves yes, but they don't move the plate profile or stretch it out over the same rack travel as far as I know. I think you would just move further up the plate with the higher RPM, also the rack would be less likely to pull back from the cam plate over 2700 Rpm. The governor springs should not affect the lower end fueling curve at all.

As far as a manual tranny, well you have to be ginger with the clutch..

 

i am curious to know how the rack travel changes in relation to the plates when u have the gsk's versus stock springs....

what if u took the 10 plate grinded down that little defueling portion of the smooth curve then u could run stock springs to 2800rpm and not get defueling past 2200rpm like in the stock plate setup..know what i mean??

and on that note...would sliding the plate (any plate) forward be kinda the equilavent of making a deeper groove in the plates?...so as oposed to grinding the plates to have deeper half moon shapes(or whatever shape) its just easier to slide it right?

 

another comment...our 12 valves peak at what 1500 rpm stock? so lets say u have 400 lbs torque at 1500 rpm...getting the 3k gsks without a change in plate will result in a higher rpm peak torque no? like 1900rpm or something ?

 

another quick question...since im thinking about all this and the topic of high egt's comes up alot .....when and why do these occur? too much fueling at high rpms for an extended period of time?? or just too much fueling in general?...what im getting at is why is the stock plate slid forward an egt hazard and the 10 plate is more friendlier?

someone should put things like this in the tech articles because these things are mentioned alot

 

if the 10 plate is the most useful one most variable infinitely adjustable smoothest etc then why a need for any other shaped plate?

 

just chunk the fuel plate and gut the afc, then put 4-k gsk and use your foot for a plate. fuel is fuel is fuel is fuel you will find that if you drive it right, you can tow anything w/o getting it too hot, you can rip a new hole in a ricer, and you can burn it up whenever you think you feel the need, or when its on its last leg or when you get really ****** off and need to blow some steam and smoke. that what i am gonig to do to my pump when i get my truck running, i just spent 3,000 dollars at the machine shop on the engine. if you take a pump apart and look at it all real good, you can figure out that the plate determines the max fueling only. the governor and the fuel shutoff solonoid and the afc also can defuel when they think it is time to defuel. no matter what plate you have in it or how hard you are pressing the throttle. i have heard that if you take the late out it CAN break a pin somewhere, but what this pin does or where it is, i don't know. if you drive it right, you will find that you don't need all the fuel that the pump can give it. that is a LOT of fuel. and therefore i don't think you will break any kind of pin or anything. maybe i am just crazier than most, i dunno. and if anyone can tell me what pin it is that can break or whatever CAN happen when you take the plate out, please share this info. i have my injection pump all apart right now and would like to know just where the whichi-whichet is at in the pump.

 

banks twinram, if you search though past posts here and on other CTD websites you'll come across quite a few folks saying how great removing the plate is, for about six months then they come back saying how their injection pump bit it and required $1200 of repairs due to the stop pin breaking off.
Bad idea that's been proven many times to backfire.

 

Ok guys. I used to think the arm traveled all the way up the plate, but it only goes to the little nose right? When i put my GSK in, i lost a lot of low end power. I decided to try and adjust my governor lever arm, and see what that did. Well, i got ALL my power back, but EGT's are crazy. I think i have finally figured out the problem maybe. When i adjusted my governor lever arm, i put it as high up under the bottom tip as i could without it going over. I believe this also made it go over the top of the top nose on the plate to the flat part. The reason i think this is because now, when I have OD locked out in 3rd with the converter locked, and i mash it, it pulls hard to about 70mph then falls off just a little, and then starts pulling harder again. Is this where the arm is coming up to the top of the nose on the fuel plate when i start slowing down, and then when it goes over it, it starts pulling harder again? My EGT's seem really high for all i have done. I can hit 1450 degrees by the time i get to 60mph stomping it(it would probably hit 1500 if i kept in it), because im guessing the arm is going over the top nose of the plate, and hitting the flat part, therfore causing very hard fueling up high, which is in turn causing my high EGT's, because EGT's were NEVER bad till the GSK, and my EGT's are still fine down low. Does this all seem logical? If i could adjust the governor lever arm back down like 1/16th of an inch, should it stop this from happening, and still keep me from losing no low end power? This is interesting. I may have to go in, and adjust this tomorow, or saturday, and see what happens. Does this sound right to you guys? Thanks

Eric

 

ok. stop pin. where is that? is it the one connected to the rack. a little pin goes through and then has a goofey looking keeper that holds it from falling out, then on the other side there is a pin about the same size, but the fuel shutoff solonoid hits that to kill the fuel. is that the stop pin? because mine doesn't hit anything right now. or is it some other pin in there? i can't see how there's any way any pin can break. not that i don't believe you, but i gotta find everything out the hard way. just the way i am. what happens when the pin breaks? the motor will only idle or will it go wide open? or will it just die? or does it throw parts out the side of the side of the pump? and cummins driver. the longer you hold the throttle open, the higher your egt's will get."unless it's hitting the governor" i can't possibly see how the little arm that hits the plate will jump up and over a square cut "high" in the plate when you are holding the gas to the floor. i could be all wrong, but what you are explaining makes sense, if it can jump up and over like that, then you need to adjust it back down a little. take 1/2 of what you originally adjusted back out of it and see if you still lose bottom end. gotta keep in mind that the afc controlls fuel also.