DiProcol Gauges, What do y'all think?
DiProcol Gauges, What do y'all think?
It is time for some gauges. Im very interested in the Diprocopl gauges (optix/black) off of genosgarage.com because they are a reasonable price and match the existing dash panel gauges. WHy are the fule pressure and EGT gauges so frickin expensive? And as far as the the boost gauge, what is the difference between the 30 psi and the 65 psi gauge? Why are there two to choose from? Tell me what yall thing about these brad of gauges! THANKS!!!
i just ordered gauges in fast i did not even get em yet...i was looking into the dipricol`s gauges but ended up going with the isspro`s i was told buy alot of people that the quality was alittle better. plus i got them for alot less money. check out www.dieselmanor.com .dave was very helpful to me and i had a ton of questions..
DI Pricol Gauges
I am very pleased with my 3 Di Dricol gauges mounted on the A pillar. The price is higher because(in my opinion) the gauges are of a higher quality than manny of the other gauges available. They look to be a much higher quality than the Autometers on my race car.
I also have a 2001 dodge truck and the green led's and the gauge style match the factory gauges very well. I used the Autometer 3 gauge pod and the Di Pricol Optix gauges press fit into it with no modification or additional fitting. The mount is an overlay type mount and I would suggest first drilling the mounting holes (mounts to the original a pillar trim with plastic plugs put in holes drilled through both pieces) before doing anything. I painted the new mount then put in the gauges and oriented them where I thought they needed to go. The gauges went in very snug and were not perfectly aligned, but I adjusted them after the A pillar mount was installed. The instructions say to drill holes in the original a pillar trim, but I felt like the old trim piece needed opened up more so I marked where the wires and lines needed to go and took the part to my bensh grinder and ground nice big holes in it. I dressed these holes with a file and assembled everything and installed it in the truck. I then ran all the wires and lines cuting them to length when they reached their conection or junction point. When I finally installed the gauge panel the gauges were not lined up like I wanted and were too tight to turn by hand so I used a little Sears strap wrench to rotate the gauges into proper orientation with out any damage to the gauges.
I have Pyro, Boost and fuel pressure. I can give this advice. I mounted the fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the VP-44. I used a valve stem core tool (same as a tire tool) to remove the stem and found a -4 female 90 deg fitting at a hydraulic shop that adapted back to 1/8th pipe. Get a 18in grease gun extension and go from there to a 1/8th pipe straight petcock (or needle valve) this will help dampen out the injector pulsation or vibrating sound coming from the VP-44. I made the nistake of running copper line to the gauge and ocassionally hear a faint buzzing sound so I would suggest running a nylon line to the gauge. The grease gun extension has 1/8th pipe threads on both ends and will get the line away from the engine where the nylon only line could be heat damaged.
The boost gauge I installed by drilling and tapping a hole in the aluminum boost manifold that goes into the engine. It was easy to get to and by just taking my time and coating the drill bit and 1/8th in pipe tap with grease and cleaning it often only took about 5 minutes to do.
The same drill bit and tap can be used to install the pyro probe in the exhaust manifold. I made the mistake of drilling the first hole right in the middle of manifold where the turbo mounting flange is located not realizing there was a divider between the two port outlets. A brass plug and a new hole now located in the center of one of the ports solved the problem.
My truck is an automatic so all lines were run through the rubber plug installed in the firewall where the clutch linkage would be.
Also I took the power for the led's from under the hood at the parking light wire because it's easier to get to. The only problem with this is the led's are too bright at night and I need to put a dimmer in line to control brightness.
The gauges are fantastic!! the response is incredible, there is literally no lag in pyro response.
This post is longer than I had intended, but I wish I had some of this information before I started......Ron
I also have a 2001 dodge truck and the green led's and the gauge style match the factory gauges very well. I used the Autometer 3 gauge pod and the Di Pricol Optix gauges press fit into it with no modification or additional fitting. The mount is an overlay type mount and I would suggest first drilling the mounting holes (mounts to the original a pillar trim with plastic plugs put in holes drilled through both pieces) before doing anything. I painted the new mount then put in the gauges and oriented them where I thought they needed to go. The gauges went in very snug and were not perfectly aligned, but I adjusted them after the A pillar mount was installed. The instructions say to drill holes in the original a pillar trim, but I felt like the old trim piece needed opened up more so I marked where the wires and lines needed to go and took the part to my bensh grinder and ground nice big holes in it. I dressed these holes with a file and assembled everything and installed it in the truck. I then ran all the wires and lines cuting them to length when they reached their conection or junction point. When I finally installed the gauge panel the gauges were not lined up like I wanted and were too tight to turn by hand so I used a little Sears strap wrench to rotate the gauges into proper orientation with out any damage to the gauges.
I have Pyro, Boost and fuel pressure. I can give this advice. I mounted the fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the VP-44. I used a valve stem core tool (same as a tire tool) to remove the stem and found a -4 female 90 deg fitting at a hydraulic shop that adapted back to 1/8th pipe. Get a 18in grease gun extension and go from there to a 1/8th pipe straight petcock (or needle valve) this will help dampen out the injector pulsation or vibrating sound coming from the VP-44. I made the nistake of running copper line to the gauge and ocassionally hear a faint buzzing sound so I would suggest running a nylon line to the gauge. The grease gun extension has 1/8th pipe threads on both ends and will get the line away from the engine where the nylon only line could be heat damaged.
The boost gauge I installed by drilling and tapping a hole in the aluminum boost manifold that goes into the engine. It was easy to get to and by just taking my time and coating the drill bit and 1/8th in pipe tap with grease and cleaning it often only took about 5 minutes to do.
The same drill bit and tap can be used to install the pyro probe in the exhaust manifold. I made the mistake of drilling the first hole right in the middle of manifold where the turbo mounting flange is located not realizing there was a divider between the two port outlets. A brass plug and a new hole now located in the center of one of the ports solved the problem.
My truck is an automatic so all lines were run through the rubber plug installed in the firewall where the clutch linkage would be.
Also I took the power for the led's from under the hood at the parking light wire because it's easier to get to. The only problem with this is the led's are too bright at night and I need to put a dimmer in line to control brightness.
The gauges are fantastic!! the response is incredible, there is literally no lag in pyro response.
This post is longer than I had intended, but I wish I had some of this information before I started......Ron
Last edited by Ron Schul; Apr 27, 2006 at 09:47 AM. Reason: errors in spelling
I sent in a EGT gauge for replacement/repair to dipricol.. DOA out of the box..sent in January.. and im still EGT less!
Unless they magically pull a good reason out of a big black hat, ill go to another brand next time around.
Unless they magically pull a good reason out of a big black hat, ill go to another brand next time around.
BigBRUNO4,
The pyro is more because it is a stepper motor (miniature electric motor) vs an air core movement. More accurate and faster reaction time too! Most likely the fuel pressure is higher as it includes all the pieces to hook it up like an isolator, tube kits, banjo bolts etc etc. Some folks price it that way while others price it sperate and let the customer choose what they want or not etc. The Di Pricol and Isspro are both top quality so you won't go wrong there either way. DPPI has been selling DiPricol's since late 1998, good stuff!
Mark @ DPPI
The pyro is more because it is a stepper motor (miniature electric motor) vs an air core movement. More accurate and faster reaction time too! Most likely the fuel pressure is higher as it includes all the pieces to hook it up like an isolator, tube kits, banjo bolts etc etc. Some folks price it that way while others price it sperate and let the customer choose what they want or not etc. The Di Pricol and Isspro are both top quality so you won't go wrong there either way. DPPI has been selling DiPricol's since late 1998, good stuff!
Mark @ DPPI
I got a Diprocol 30psi fuel gauge from diesel manor for less than $50. And picked up every thing to hook it up at the local harware store for $20. The Diprocol is a nice gauge.
I used copper too and had the same problem coming off the VP so I moved it to a tapped banjo on the bottom of the filter canister and all vibes and pulsations went away.
Originally Posted by Ron Schul
I made the nistake of running copper line to the gauge and ocassionally hear a faint buzzing sound so I would suggest running a nylon line to the gauge.
I used copper too and had the same problem coming off the VP so I moved it to a tapped banjo on the bottom of the filter canister and all vibes and pulsations went away.
Trending Topics
Compared side by side the Isspro and DiPricol are similar in appearance, its when the lights go out that the Di's shine....no pun intended! There is no comparison to an led bulb v/s an incandescent one, that coupled with the stepper motor is one reason for the price. We have both, call for quote.
Originally Posted by HP Upgrades
Compared side by side the Isspro and DiPricol are similar in appearance, its when the lights go out that the Di's shine....no pun intended! There is no comparison to an led bulb v/s an incandescent one
I could have sworn that the Di Procol's and Isspro's were the EXACT same price at Diesel Manor when I ordered my gauges?
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