Can anyone direct me to the Cummins part number/site for their integrated crankcase vent system? It replaces the puke bottle with a new tube that vents directly back into the oil pan.
Thanks for the assistance.

 

I don't know of going back into the oil pan but here is a link to a very nice one that seems to work pretty well http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%2...kcase_vent.htm
Hope this helps.

 

I used 3/4" heater hose and routed it over the engine and down below the firewall next to the frame. That's how the older ones are too.

 

I got a chunk of armored hose from home Depot and routed it in behind my head light. Make sure you clean your rad (best way is removing it from the truck and using a pressure washer), that oil makes a mess... the difference is night and day...

 

Here's some links to the Fleetgard version ~

http://www.heavydutyexhaust.com/file...les/frame.html

http://www.hoeslidiesel.com/specials.htm

https://www.rvchassisparts.com/Searc...nical%20System

Hope this helps.

 

I plan on making a crank vent system real soon, I was thinking that I'll just hook into the case by drilling a hole in the bottom of the breather using plastic weld & some plastic tubing/fittings. To hook into the oil pan, I figure I'll rig a contraption similar to this, but better looking. http://images.fourwheeler.com/projec..._oil_drain.jpg I'm sure it can be done easily & I will post info with pics too.

 

The point of the vent is that... to vent pressure. If you tie into the oil pan, you will turn it into a closed system and it won't work as intended

 

We are talking about doing a seperate line coming out of the breather at the bottom, just like the Fleetgaurd system pictured here. http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page7.html

 

why? you dont lose that much oil

i routed a hose straight down from where the bottle used to be and back behind the front axle, you can see it in the pic below. its low enough that any oil that does come out on a wide open throttle blast blows to the ground.

the whole point of the tube coming out the top then making a 180 back down is so that any oil that does come out gets trapped at the breather, and runs back into the timing case.

 

I have the TSB vent that replaces the tappet cover, and it just vents from there. I put a long piece of 3/4" oil rated hose on it and ran that down to my DIY catch can mounted by the transfer case. I just drain it when I change the oil.

 

I guess I could just route mine like that, but I have a hose hooked to it now That extends the tube about 8" & could see oil all over my bottom of my truck. Its just a coating on my rearend mostly. I think It is due to heavy towing with my box turned up combined with steep grades that is doing it on mine.

 

Guys,
Thanks for all of the replies. What I was looking for was Cummmins Fleetguard CV50115. It replaces that all of the tubing and remote puke bottle that I now have and vents/separates oil back to the oil pan. Pricey, but worth it to me. No more smell or messy bottle clean up.
Thanks again

 

haha u can tell a electrician did mine i used a peice of 3/4 seal tite (flexible tubing) and a 3/4 ridgid nipple to connect it to the original hose and tie wraped it to the sway bar. it looks cool with a little blow by under my truck...it reminds me of a big rig. also there is no oil under my truck only a little drips out, it sticks about 2 in. below my sway bar.

 

Rubber heater hose will eventually break down and collapse. This will cause a build up of crankcase pressure and start oil leakage around seals, which is not a good thing!