Andy, your '02 24 is an entirely different animal from the 12 valve.
It's actually easier, the 24 has a couple of test ports you can use, no tapping needed.
The 24 also runs lower fuel pressure, 30 psi gauge is adequate.
www.genosgarage.com has all you need kits for the 24 valve.
A search here at DTR will definitely yield you more info on installing a FP gauge on a 24 valve than a 12.

 

This question might sound stupid, but is there any reason we can't use a 100PSI fuel pressure gauge? I know that 60 PSI is as high as it needs to go, but it would probably bug the heck out of me if the gauge read 'water' or 'oil'...

 

I also noticed on Grainger, you have to have a business, they don't sell to the public? Did you just make up a business name or something? Nearest dealer is over 200 miles away.

 

Just call yourself Dave's Garage. They have one category where you don't have to provide resale numbers. Most Ace Hardware stores can order stuff from Grainger for you also.

 

I was wondering if most people are running mechanical fuel pressure gauges. If so, are you routing it into the truck, ha, to me that dont sound like a very good idea. If you are like me, you wont want to spent the money on a good electrical fuel gauge. What i plan on doing is spending the money for a Cowl hood and then put the mechanical guage showing threw the cowl, so you can see it out the front window. I think that would be a better way to spend the money, get looks, and a gauge, IMO.

 

FWIW I've had a mechanical guage in the cab for 10K miles with no problems. I used 3/16" copper with compression fittings and it hasn't leaked a drop. The guage sits on the left knee bolster by the comp. If it does leak it'll drip onto the floor matt and I can turn it off with a needle valve. Honestly, 20psi is not going to blow out any quality pressure gauge, I wouldn't worry about it. You don't have to worry about replacing isolaters every 6 months either.

Having it outside would be okay but it snows here and seeing it might be a problem.