In cab Fuel pressure gauge..
03-12-2006, 10:13 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
In cab Fuel pressure gauge..
Guys...
I am in dire need for getting a new set of gauges ASAP. My younger bro said he would help me with getting them for the A pillar on my truck. I want to run Autometers or Issopros as long as they sorta match the factory color gauges of the truck.
My question is are there any of you that are running the Fuel pressure gauge inside a 12V truck? I know ive seen it on the 24V engine trucks alot in the recent pics, But i was wondering if it is possible to do on a 12V and if there are any drawbacks as towards why it isnt done as often as a 24V.
Any thoughts guys? Thank you in advance!
Rick
I am in dire need for getting a new set of gauges ASAP. My younger bro said he would help me with getting them for the A pillar on my truck. I want to run Autometers or Issopros as long as they sorta match the factory color gauges of the truck.
My question is are there any of you that are running the Fuel pressure gauge inside a 12V truck? I know ive seen it on the 24V engine trucks alot in the recent pics, But i was wondering if it is possible to do on a 12V and if there are any drawbacks as towards why it isnt done as often as a 24V.
Any thoughts guys? Thank you in advance!
Rick
03-12-2006, 10:34 AM
#2
Registered User
I pulled the one of my 24v prior to selling it and put it in the 12v
Got to load up some pics but its mounted down by the ashtray as the pillar is full with Pyro/TT/Boost FP on a 12v is probably not nessasary but I had the stuff and figured it cant hurt? ReplyfromshellshockedpriorVPowner
Got to load up some pics but its mounted down by the ashtray as the pillar is full with Pyro/TT/Boost FP on a 12v is probably not nessasary but I had the stuff and figured it cant hurt? ReplyfromshellshockedpriorVPowner
03-12-2006, 10:38 AM
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We can get you the gauges that will match your factory look. Our customers usually choose between the Isspro or DiPricol Optix, but Autometer is also another choice as well.
The 24v trucks need to watch fuel pressure because of the failure rate of the lift pumps, which when it goes out and provides no pressure the injection pump usually goes out too. This is due to the injection pump getting lubrication from the fuel, and when there is no pressure there is no fuel and no lube, and that equals break down and new injection pump which is a costly repair.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge on a 12 valve is not done as much but we have sold many and our customers love knowing what their pressure is and also having another cool gauge installed in the truck.
Let me know if I can assist you any!
The 24v trucks need to watch fuel pressure because of the failure rate of the lift pumps, which when it goes out and provides no pressure the injection pump usually goes out too. This is due to the injection pump getting lubrication from the fuel, and when there is no pressure there is no fuel and no lube, and that equals break down and new injection pump which is a costly repair.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge on a 12 valve is not done as much but we have sold many and our customers love knowing what their pressure is and also having another cool gauge installed in the truck.
Let me know if I can assist you any!
03-12-2006, 11:08 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by HP Upgrades
We can get you the gauges that will match your factory look. Our customers usually choose between the Isspro or DiPricol Optix, but Autometer is also another choice as well.
The 24v trucks need to watch fuel pressure because of the failure rate of the lift pumps, which when it goes out and provides no pressure the injection pump usually goes out too. This is due to the injection pump getting lubrication from the fuel, and when there is no pressure there is no fuel and no lube, and that equals break down and new injection pump which is a costly repair.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge on a 12 valve is not done as much but we have sold many and our customers love knowing what their pressure is and also having another cool gauge installed in the truck.
Let me know if I can assist you any!
The 24v trucks need to watch fuel pressure because of the failure rate of the lift pumps, which when it goes out and provides no pressure the injection pump usually goes out too. This is due to the injection pump getting lubrication from the fuel, and when there is no pressure there is no fuel and no lube, and that equals break down and new injection pump which is a costly repair.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge on a 12 valve is not done as much but we have sold many and our customers love knowing what their pressure is and also having another cool gauge installed in the truck.
Let me know if I can assist you any!
The reason that i want a FP gauge on a 12V
i want to know by reading the pressure if the fuel filter is actually plugged, or if the lift pump is going (not very likely) If i can get a FP gauge, and the pressure remains constant with a new filter for a while, In my theory i can go ahead and replace the fuel filter when i see that the pressure is starting to drop... thanks for the offer ill keep that in mind!
Just my two cents..
Rick
03-12-2006, 11:11 AM
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Your reason is why we try to suggest our customers to install the pressure hose after the filter with a banjo bolt, that way you will be able to see the pressure drop and know its time to change the filter. My personal truck is this way and its an great to always know.
Good idea!
Good idea!
03-12-2006, 01:09 PM
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Rick...12V's dont really have the fuel pressure problems that 24Vs do. The P-7100 can run if the lift pump craps out entirely, this is not the case on a 24V. At any rate, a FP gauge is still a good troubleshooting tool on a 12V and the guages are pretty cheap.
The problem with Autometer is...unlesss you use a blower pressure guage (like Ratsun does) or boost guage, Autometer does not make a mechanical FP guage in the range you need. You need a 0-60 psi guage and any Autometers Ive seen are 0-15, 0-30, and 0-100 psi.. Isspro and Stewart Warner make the correct range for your needs:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r5..._fuelpress.asp
http://www.sw-performance.com/produc...?productid=164
To install a purley mechanical setup, you need a tapped banjo bolt, a needle valve, and some sort of hose to run into the cab. For more info, If you do a search in this forum, Infidel has posted detailed install instructions with pics.
The problem with Autometer is...unlesss you use a blower pressure guage (like Ratsun does) or boost guage, Autometer does not make a mechanical FP guage in the range you need. You need a 0-60 psi guage and any Autometers Ive seen are 0-15, 0-30, and 0-100 psi.. Isspro and Stewart Warner make the correct range for your needs:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r5..._fuelpress.asp
http://www.sw-performance.com/produc...?productid=164
To install a purley mechanical setup, you need a tapped banjo bolt, a needle valve, and some sort of hose to run into the cab. For more info, If you do a search in this forum, Infidel has posted detailed install instructions with pics.
03-12-2006, 02:05 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Rick...12V's dont really have the fuel pressure problems that 24Vs do. The P-7100 can run if the lift pump craps out entirely, this is not the case on a 24V. At any rate, a FP gauge is still a good troubleshooting tool on a 12V and the guages are pretty cheap.
The problem with Autometer is...unlesss you use a blower pressure guage (like Ratsun does) or boost guage, Autometer does not make a mechanical FP guage in the range you need. You need a 0-60 psi guage and any Autometers Ive seen are 0-15, 0-30, and 0-100 psi.. Isspro and Stewart Warner make the correct range for your needs:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r5..._fuelpress.asp
http://www.sw-performance.com/produc...?productid=164
To install a purley mechanical setup, you need a tapped banjo bolt, a needle valve, and some sort of hose to run into the cab. For more info, If you do a search in this forum, Infidel has posted detailed install instructions with pics.
The problem with Autometer is...unlesss you use a blower pressure guage (like Ratsun does) or boost guage, Autometer does not make a mechanical FP guage in the range you need. You need a 0-60 psi guage and any Autometers Ive seen are 0-15, 0-30, and 0-100 psi.. Isspro and Stewart Warner make the correct range for your needs:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r5..._fuelpress.asp
http://www.sw-performance.com/produc...?productid=164
To install a purley mechanical setup, you need a tapped banjo bolt, a needle valve, and some sort of hose to run into the cab. For more info, If you do a search in this forum, Infidel has posted detailed install instructions with pics.
Thanks for the help Dr!
Ill get on it.. Im interested in the Issopros, i like the way taht the match the factory gauges. Boost, Pyro, and FP is what it will look like for me. Now do i have to order the full kit? or can i rig up something using the gauge only..
Thanks for the further input...
Rick
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03-12-2006, 03:35 PM
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Rick,
Full kit?? I assume you mean an isolator??
I imagine there are some suppliers wont sell just the guage...you may have to shop around. Personally, Id bypass the isolator and run fuel to the guage.
Did you find Infidels threads? If not, let me know...Like I said for a mechanical setup its pretty simple...guage, hose, needle valve, and tapped banjo.
Some of the best prices around are from these guys:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/
you could also try:
www.usdieselparts.com
Full kit?? I assume you mean an isolator??
I imagine there are some suppliers wont sell just the guage...you may have to shop around. Personally, Id bypass the isolator and run fuel to the guage.
Did you find Infidels threads? If not, let me know...Like I said for a mechanical setup its pretty simple...guage, hose, needle valve, and tapped banjo.
Some of the best prices around are from these guys:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/
you could also try:
www.usdieselparts.com
03-12-2006, 03:37 PM
#9
Registered User
Buy any 60lb gauge here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA
It may say water, air or even fuel on it and will be a high quality made in USA Autometer Industrial gauge. Mount it down low at the bottom center of your dash and matching isn't much problem. On a 12 valve you really don't need to watch your FP as much as a 24, down low mounting is no big deal.
Here's my instructions, save yourself a search.
To check fuel pressure on 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a gauge you can use a fuel, boost or water pressure gauge, for a 12
valve it must be at least 40 psi, 60 is best. They can have no
lighting since it's not a gauge you need to look at all the time. They can
be mounted low for the same reason. Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 . After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $3.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The Surplus Center pressure gauges I use cost less than $10, bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a couple hours of your time.
From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
Needle Valve Mounted on Banjo Bolt
It may say water, air or even fuel on it and will be a high quality made in USA Autometer Industrial gauge. Mount it down low at the bottom center of your dash and matching isn't much problem. On a 12 valve you really don't need to watch your FP as much as a 24, down low mounting is no big deal.
Here's my instructions, save yourself a search.
To check fuel pressure on 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a gauge you can use a fuel, boost or water pressure gauge, for a 12
valve it must be at least 40 psi, 60 is best. They can have no
lighting since it's not a gauge you need to look at all the time. They can
be mounted low for the same reason. Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 . After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $3.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The Surplus Center pressure gauges I use cost less than $10, bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a couple hours of your time.
From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
Needle Valve Mounted on Banjo Bolt
03-12-2006, 07:56 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
What more could you ask for? 
Not much more
It amazes me how much i learn from Infidel about our trucks. I suggest he get promoted to moderator or somethin, or at least given recognition of some sorts.. You too as well Dr Evil..
Thanks for all the help fellas!
Rick
03-13-2006, 10:25 PM
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I just put that link to those gauges in my Favorites. They have great prices on gauges no matter what you wanted to use them for. I need a job so I can buy some more gauges. I kinda think my lift pump is weak on my truck. I need to check it. Is there any way to check it without plumbing it permanently? I dont care to have it permanent, just not sure I like the idea of having diesel in the cab...
Eric
I kinda think my lift pump is weak on my truck. I need to check it. Is there any way to check it without plumbing it permanently? I dont care to have it permanent, just not sure I like the idea of having diesel in the cab...Eric
03-14-2006, 10:53 AM
#14
Registered User
Originally Posted by cumminsdriver635
I need to check it. Is there any way to check it without plumbing it permanently? I dont care to have it permanent, just not sure I like the idea of having diesel in the cab...
Eric
Eric
Connect the adaptor to a grease gun hose, it's the same thread. On the other end attach your pressure gauge, it may require an 1/8" coupling or a reducer depending on what size thread your gauge has.
No need for a needle valve or dampener with the TST adaptor as it has a hair sized hole for the fuel to pass though.
TST says it's adaptor isn't for permanent connection and I can see why.
It's small diameter seems like it would be prone to breaking off.
07-14-2006, 11:27 AM
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infidel:
Hate do dig up a thread, but this is a great one!
I was wanting to put a PSI guage on my dads 02. Would your described procedure be fairly similar for this year? 60psi guage, needle valve required with a 24v?
Might even rig one up on my 1st gen, using a 15psi guage of course.
Andy
Hate do dig up a thread, but this is a great one!
I was wanting to put a PSI guage on my dads 02. Would your described procedure be fairly similar for this year? 60psi guage, needle valve required with a 24v?
Might even rig one up on my 1st gen, using a 15psi guage of course.
Andy