I am considering going to a bypass oil filteration setup but need a few questions answered first.<br><br>How often do you change the bypass filter?<br>How often do you change the full flow filter?<br>What kind of oil?<br>How often do you change the oil?<br><br>I am doing some cost comparisons to see if it is really worth it.<br><br>Thanks in advance.

 

Some recent tests of independent labs over here (Austria and Germany) have led to the conclusion that bypass oil filters are not to be recommended as an aftermarked addition to an engine. <br>First problem is that the oil going into the filter leads to a pressure drop that can be harmful for main bearings etc. Oil pressure builds much slower at startup. <br>The base oil degrades with time. The VI improvers do get cracked by the heat and lose function. <br>The conclusion of these studies was that first there is no real saving money in them and there was much more wear onthe engines after 2000 hours. <br>The only bypass oil filtration systems these studies endorsed were systems that had been part of the original construction of the engine, or ones using their own pump. Still these studies said that the prolonged oil change interval was harmful if the oil had degraded in its properties. <br>A parallel study between two engines with prolonged oil change intervals, one with the bypass filter in place, the other without a filter in the housing ( just a calibrated orifice to simulate filter resistance) on engines with a separate pump for the bypass system) showed virtually no difference in wear after 1500 hrs. On both engines the same amount of oil was changed when the filter mfg recommended changing the filter. <br><br>Disclaimer: this is what I saw as a conclusion to some studies that tested European diesel engines on European fuel and oils . Whether this is applicable to the Cummins engine I do not know.<br><br>Just my 2c<br><br>AlpineRAM

 

I would probably change the oil every 25,000 miles. I am just starting on the research.

 

StakeMan:<br>I think that the idea of bypass filters actually is not bad. I assume that if you do oil analysis frequently, and this oil analysis includes a viscosity over temperature check, one of the main concerns of this study would be avoided. <br>I do not know whether there is a pressure drop on the bearings with the systems you are looking at now. <br><br>The studies I quoted were concerned with a marketing hype of aftermarket bypass filter systems for trucks over here. These systems claim that they will allow increased oil change intervals and will reduce engine wear. <br> I thought I would point out some of the problems found because this could maybe help you with deciding for a system. <br><br>And I do not intend this to be a flame. I dislike the asbestos underwear. ;D<br>AlpineRAM

 

StakeMan, I run a dual bypass oil filter system. And this is why. <br><br>First of all, most oil filters only filter to 20 microns. Some of the good ones filter to 5 microns. Amsoil sells a BE100 that filters to 1 micron. That is what I use. It only makes sense. Through research most of the damage done is at start up and partials under 5 microns. <br><br>I have to turn the key. I also can work to minimize the damage. <br><br>I do not change my oil, never. I replace what is lost through oil filter change out.<br>I change my filters only when I need to because the oil analyses says to. Over 12,000 miles????? Still working on it.<br>Does this go against the grain or what?<br><br>I use Amsoil HD 3000 5-30 better protection at startup. Higher heat resistance breakdown over petroleum type oils, good for diesels with 1700 EGT’S. And don't think that is not you without a gage you cant tell. And what is put into the oil because of SUPER BIG Injectors. How long you idle is also a good question.<br><br>Also Alpineram The &quot;test&quot; that you refer to the words BASE OIL in this test they are using a petroleum base this does not include synthetics because of there lighter viscosity. Check ASTM D-3829 Standard Test borderline pumping temperature. <br><br>Basically synthetics flow is less restrictive because of its properties. The tests are Kinematic Viscosity, Viscosity Index, Cold Crank Simulator, Apparent Viscosity,Pour Point, Flash and Fire Points, Noack Volatility, High Temperature / High Shear Viscosity and Four Ball Wear Test.<br><br>I know this is MUCH more than you asked. But there is a lot more to look at. Then how often and how much. That is a good place to start. OverFueled<br>

 

Stakeman: <br><br>Here is part of the history I have compiled over the last fourteen years running dual remote oil filter systems on three different trucks. All three were Cummins engines. <br><br>I installed the dual remote system on my 89 Dodge at 85,000 miles and ran the same oil 50,000 miles or more with sampling of course. I still have the history of sampling from Analysts Inc I can fax to you so you can see what they look for. I traded the truck with 142,000 miles on it in 99 and it is still running and has not been touched yet.<br><br>I installed the dual remote system on my 95 at around 30,000 miles and that oil was in it when I traded it at around 86,000 miles.<br><br>I installed the dual remote on my 99 at 24,000 miles. At about 50,000 miles, the sample came back high iron content. I called the sample place and talked to them about the iron. I told them I had put the oil in this engine a lot earlier and that I was working this engine harder pulling up to 26,000 pounds. I changed the oil and both filters based on that conversation and ran that oil till 100,000 miles with no problems. I changed it at 100,000 miles and am headed for 121,000 now with the same oil. I am getting ready to send off another sample soon that will determine when / if I change again.<br><br>I change the regular filter every 5000 miles and the BE 100 every 25,000 miles. Since the BE 100 is a 1 micron filter, this is probably overkill on the main oil filter but it makes me feel better doing it that often plus a quart of oil or more gets changed with the filter. I very seldom add a quart of oil between filter changes. <br><br>Hope this helps with your research. Send me a PM if you need further info.

 

I am looking at the amsoil single bypass or the puradyn. The puradyn is cheaper to maintain per year, but the unit costs more and is larger which could be a pain to find a place to mount it.<br><br>Either would cut the cost of oil maintenace in half if I change the oil every 25,000.<br><br>

 

Overfueled: They were using the engine manufacturers recommended engine oil to test the bypass filter systems. (as per instructions of the bypass system mfg )<br>I calculated it for my truck and found that with the prices over here it does not pay off to go synthetic. - I pay about 35 € for oil and filter change with Valvoline premium blue and a Cummins oil filter. <br>Synthetic oil is about 15 € per liter- and for the cheapest bypass filter I found over here the insert is 55 € . <br><br>AlpineRAM<br><br>

 

Here is what I have come up with.<br><br>I put about 45,000 miles a year on my truck. With my fueling and the type of driving I do I should change my oil and filter every 5000 miles which would cost me around $400 a year in oil and filters. I am currently using Valvoline Blue Extreme.<br><br>If I install an Amsoil single bypass filter and change the bypass filter and oil every 25,000 miles, the full flow every 12,500 miles, the cost is just under $300 a year. The cost of the bypass system would pay for itself in just over 1 year.<br><br>Am I confused about the oil and filter change intervals?

 

StakeMan It sound good to me. A bit on the conservative side put that is good. Also if you become a amsoil distributor for 30.00 you could purchase direct and cut the cost even more over the complete setup. OV

 

Must not be many bypass users on this site?

 

Stakeman,<br><br>I am running the Amsoil bypass filter system in my 98 2500 CTD 4x4. I installled it at about 50,000 miles about 4 years ago. The vehicle now has over 152K with the orginal oil plus the replacement at filter change. I only change both filters twice a year because I rely on the Oil Analyzer Report to tell me if I have any problems in the making, of which I have had none. I drive about 25K a year. <br><br>In my book, the bypass system was paid for very early, especially in time saved.<br><br>As has been said, you can become an AMsoil dealer for about $20 or $30 dollars per six month period, which you will make back, or save, in the first order. <br><br>Hope this helps.

 

RAMMANX2<br>I just bought a 01 3500 dually with 31K a few weeks back. I think it was treated fairly well, but nonetheless I want to get a lifetime out of it. I’ve been reading all kinds of posts on “Bypass” and “dual filters”. I’m still left with some questions.<br><br>Who do you use to test your oil?<br>What exactly do they test for?<br>How long before doing the filters do you send in a sample?<br>Have you ever noticed a drop in pressure in any of your installations?<br><br>I also drive 25K to over 30K a year mostly highway driving (no towing) at high speeds, so I’d like to treat the engine right. It seems this is my best bet. Thanks in advance for any input you may have<br><br>-John<br>

 

I am also interested in the dual setup system from Amsoil. Maybe a dumb question, but why would the oil pressure drop. Is it because of the remote mount or because of the amount of filtering the filters do? Also would I get the BMK-15 setup?<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Tim

 

I can’t remember if I saw it on this board or not. But I did see postings of guys claiming a small drop in pressure. I’m actually going to the dealership for some warranty work tomorrow, I’m going to find out what they say about this. I know the official response is that this isn’t needed. I personally don’t care if it’s needed. If it’ll add life to my engine, then sign me up.
-John