I am big on submicronic bypass filters. I only know of three bypass filters that make any sense. I retired my 42 year old Frantz. It had saved me many thousands of dollars. It's getting a little rough around the edges. My oldest filter still in use is a 32 year old Motor Guard. The Motor Guard is my personal favorite. They are the easiest to service of any filter and don't leak. There are centrifuge type of filters that can do a decent job of cleaning oil. They can't compete with cellulose.
The military uses a lot of Gulf Coast filters. The best filter Cummins Fleetguard has uses shredded newspapers and wood chips. These are elements to fit the Lubrafiner housing like you see on the side of heavy duty trucks.
For maximum engine life you will need to change the filter more often than some filter makers recommend. Frantz and Motor Guard users did fine before the synthetic oils. Multi grade oils were no good for extended use in 1964. I used Delo 100 30 wt.
I gave my Frantz equipped 84 Subaru to a friend. It had the frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter. It had 240,000 on it. I pushed it to the limit. I changed the filter about every 12,000 miles and added one qt of oil. Normally the filter should be changed every 4,000 miles on a 4 cylinder car.
I use Shell Rotella T 5-40 synthetic in my Camry. I just bought 3 qts of Amsoil V twin 20-50 oil for my Kohler engine on a chipper shreader. I filter everything. The Kohler has a Perma-Cool sandwich adapter with a Motor Guard M-30. I will change the Motor Guard element once a year and add a qt of oil. Less than 10.00 a year won't break me.
You are not keeping your oil clean by changing it every 3,000 miles. You are allowing it to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it. Oil changes are a poor substitute for proper filtration. Your oil must be clean 100% of the time for maximum equipment life. Synthetic oil gets dirty just as fast as conventional oil.
A bypass filter hooks up to a Dodge Cumins the same as the Turbo. You get pressure by removing the 1/8 pipe plug in the top of the filter mount. You can return the oil by tapping into the turbo oil return tube or the oil pan. You can make a saddle clamp similar to the saddle valve you use to tap into a water line for a water filter. I just machined one for a new 6.0 Powerstroke oil fill tube. I like to use a Perma-Cool sandwich adapter but all Perma-Cool makes is a remote mount adapter for the Dodge.
The problem with most bypass filters is they can't remove a high percentage of soot because they are not submicronic. To test a bypass filter go to an art supply store and get a tube of lamp black. Mix it in oil and run it through a filter. If the filter can remove it on the first pass you have a good filter. Some of it has a base that doesn't mix well with oil. I got some mortar color at Acme Brick that worked very well. It was in a powder form. Even the top filters will allow enough soot to get thru to turn the oil black. Some of the lamp black measures an average size of 1/20th of one micron. You need to keep the soot level to one percent or less. With experience you can tell by the look and feel of the oil if the soot level is too high. I don't spend much on oil analysis.

Ralph

 

HC: Sorry, I do not have a link to this study, it was published as an internal paper. <br><br>One of the main notions I remember was that the pressure drop was supposed to be one of the main culprits of premature wear. <br>On some big gensets we do use bypass filtration, but we use a separate electric oil pump that does not influence the original oil system. This system also serves as an oil preheater at engine standstill, and as preluber for quick starts.<br>Since there are lots of properties an oil must have to work correctly there is the need to do proper analysis. With the gensets we do an oil analysis every 240 hrs if they are used on alternative fuels, and every 500 hrs on diesel or propane. Since the amout of oil lost during filter changes is negligible compared to the total oil content ( about 120 gallons including coolers) the standard service procedure calls for rebuilding the additive package based on the analysis. I do not know whether the full additive package will stay intact by replacing 8% of the old oil with new, high additve oil every 5 k miles. I would be afraid about the content of VI improving polymeres getting too low and therefore reducing shear stability. I don't know whether the oil analysis procedures you use do contain a viscosity index over temperature, shear stability and antiwear additive efficiency levels for boundary lubrication. <br>Personally I must say that clean oil makes sense as long as it's good oil having all the necessary properties for this engine. <br><br>AlpineRAM