I still haven't gathered enough information about bypass filters to make up my mind.

 

Stake, this might help you make up your mind. I'm selling my Amsoil dual by-pass assy, complete with billet adapter, stainless steel lines with areoquip fittings, and one new full flow filter. Pick it up in Muncie to save the shipping, if you have the cahonas to show up. ;D <br><br><br>Later, Rob<br><br>Michigan Performance Diesel<br>248-343-1665

 

I don't use a bypass filter system, I have been thinking about one for some time. <br><br> 2 things stay with me that have prevented me from putting in the system.<br><br> 1. I like putting in fresh clean oil on a regular basis, I feel the cost of the oil is minimal to the amount of damage that I could cause by stretching out the miles on the oil change.<br><br>2. I don't like running hoses to the bypass filter, I think it raises the chance of an oil leak or other problem that I would rather not have to deal with. I don't do a lot of off road driving, but having those hoses down there increase the risk of me cutting one.<br><br> Other than that I hear good things from people who have the systems. Maybe one day I will try one out myself.

 

[quote author=Rob Thomas link=board=7;threadid=12342;start=15#136599 date=1052502610]<br>Stake, this might help you make up your mind. I'm selling my Amsoil dual by-pass assy, complete with billet adapter, stainless steel lines with areoquip fittings, and one new full flow filter. Pick it up in Muncie to save the shipping, if you have the cahonas to show up. ;D <br>[/quote]<br><br>Thanks but I want a single bypass. Full flow in stock location and 1 micron bypass.<br><br>Muncie must not be far off, the trash talk has already started. You should be able to stomp my poor underfueled, slush box equiped truck at the track. :

 

StakeMan could this help? F.Y.I I did the switch at 12,000. I am at 42,000. I also went to the bypass oil filters at the same time 5 microns and 1 micron of filtration. I did loose some P.S.I. 40 to 35 but at the time I believed this is due to the lighter viscosity of the Amsoil. I doesn’t have to work to pump as hard.<br><br>I use the Dual-remote filter system. But I do not believe that is the full cause of my oil pressure drop of 5 lbs, running at normal speed. I use to get 40 lbs @ normal running speeds now I get 35 lbs at normal running speeds. And the same at an idle, there is a 5 lb difference. First of all I switched to Amsoil at the same time I put on the dual oil filter system. I only thought that the drop in pressure was because of the greater distance the oil had to travel to move through the filters. Hence the pressure would drop. This only made since to me. Well after some consideration and thought this was only part true. First of all I did not move the pressure-sending unit, when I installed the dual remote filter system, it is in the same place. The “rest of the story” is the fact that Amsoil synthetic oil is lighter than petroleum base oil in the same weight. Which means that it is less restrictive and has less drag on the pump. Which means that it does not have to work as hard to pump the lighter oil. Hence the drop in pressure. In other words the oil goes through the engine with less restriction. Because of the lighter viscosity. This is why you will see an increase in fuel mileage. The internal moving parts have less drag because of the lighter oil. How do you think the oil gives you better mileage? After weighing the many pros and the few cons’ I can live with the fact of knowing that the drop in pressure is well taken care of by its superior protection. It is supposed to do that OverFueled <br> <br><br>

 

I have a question? Can i use the Fleet Guard oil filter on the Amsoil By pass filter unit? I will still use the Amsoil by-pass filter.

 

Yes you can run your standard fleetguard for one of the filters. The standard filter has about a 7/8 inch thread. But for the 1 micron BE-100 filter the threads are much larger about 1 1/2&quot; . But if I am not mistaken the system comes with an adapter that you could use both 7/8 inch filters. Which would be like running two 5 microns filters. I see you did say that you still would use the Amsoil by-pass which would be the BE-100. That could be a very good choice. OverFueled

 

I have been doing some looking around and found the Oilguard filter. Has any one used this? I thaugt about the Amsoil one but am still undecided ??? I know i don't want a dual set up, Just a single bypass filter.

 

Guys, your'e talking to a five year old kid, on what he should do.
You got to get his attention, then, tell him,&quot;do what we say or go to your room&quot;.

Steve

 

Top, on the dual bypass system I would switch to the 2,000lb hydraulic hoses the braided steel ones, with the coil crimp on ends, it would take a tank to rip one of those baby’s off. OverFueled.

 

Plenty of us with TDI's have Oilguard systems(including myself) and they work great. I have the single bypass filter, inlet hose sourced from a NPT port, and valve cover tapped for the return line. Very short hoses and neat. Oil analysis shows very low wear metals etc compared to stock tdi's. Oilguard systems do as well as amsoil's on the oil analysis reports I've seen, and the elements are cheaper.

 

Just got my billet adapter and stainless braided hoses to replace the old cast aluminum adapter and rubber hoses. That is real quality stuff. Going to try to install it in the next week or two if I can get away from work long enough. My oil history is posted somewhere above and I'll leave it at that. I like it that way.

 

I've posted on this topic so many times in the past; I'm just going to give the short version of each point here:<br>1) Dual bypass DOES drop the oil pressure; it's not just the oil viscosity. This is due to a check valve / oriface in the line that is required to force some of the oil to go through the bypass at the remote location.<br>2) Set-up of bypass system is important. If you put a &quot;big rig&quot; system on your Cummins, such as the standard Filter head for the Fleetguard LF777 filter, it could &quot;starve&quot; the engine as reported in AlpineRam's study. If the oriface is sized properly for your &quot;smaller&quot; engine (e.g., Amsoil, Oilguard, Racor) it should not be a problem. AlpineRam, I would love to see the full study if you can find a link...<br>3) Dual bypass does makes some low-level noise. Some people hear it; some don't. <br>4) Sampling is the key element in bypass + extended drain intervals.<br>5) Single bypass with spin-on is more convenient; Oilguard/Racor with replaceable internal element is cheaper to maintain.<br>6) I'm at 134k, 44k of it since the last change, with about 25k per change before that. Wear metals in samples have stabilized; and when I do the math, I find my wear rates remain consistent with what I saw with only 5 or 10k on the same oil. <br>7) I change filters more than most; ~5k per full flow, plus bypass at 10k to 15k. Sample every 5k. I'm not saving money; I'm saving time while still caring for my engine. And I'm not spending more money on &quot;expensive&quot; oil, either, because I don't need but 2 quarts every 5k. My costs are about the same as with 5k changes on Dino Oil; I just spend less time on maintenance and have less used oil to deal with.<br>8) I will be changing to a single bypass set-up (probably Oilguard) later to regain full oil pressure.<br>9) I'm confident that what I'm doing is providing proper engine lubrication; and I've got the lab reports to back it. But I also believe that those who drive fewer miles per year, have less to gain from doing the same thing I'm doing, and let's face it, for some people, light maintenance work like changing the oil is a pleasurable hobby. For me it's just something I have to do that takes time away from playing at my other hobbies.<br>10) Expensive industrial equipment, including diesels, is maintained with extended changes, better filters, and sampling. So I don't see what I'm doing as being &quot;left field&quot;. But it exceeds the need and complexity that most consumers are willing or capable of dealing deal with. Let's face it; most folks consider cars as &quot;disposable&quot; items, drive it a few years, buy another one. And frequent changes with any properly rated oil gets the job done too; the Cummins will still outlast the truck.<br><br>AlpineRam, got a link for that study?

 

[quote author=StakeMan link=board=7;threadid=12342;start=0#117978 date=1048090647]
Must not be many bypass users on this site?
[/quote]

Personally don't care for the bypass system although there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. I just prefer the dual remote and the almost two extra quart capacity it adds to the crank case.
Keep in mind that the same exact oil does not stay in the engine for ever. You will burn off a little, leak a little eventually (out the breather too), and replace a certain amount every time you replace filter(s). My system holds almost fourteen quarts and I replace one or two quarts every 5000 miles with filter change (almost three quarts when both filters are changed) and what little consumption the engine does. As long as the TBN stays in good range and the contaminates are not excessive, I don't have a problem with extended oil changes. I'm not being cheap here either, I'm actually more likely in overkill in the filter change intervals I do (5k main and 20-25k bypass) and actually probably spend more. I paid $37k for this truck and I am not going to short change the protection the engine needs by skimping on oil related parts. I don't really care what it costs to drive per mile to the cent. If I was that worried, I would not have bought it. To me, that's like buying a very expensive car and then asking how much the tires are for it.
I know one person in particular that has over 300,000 miles on his oil the last time I talked to a dealer that knows him. I would not go that far I don't think but that should tell you something right there.
(now ducking for cover)
The bottom line here again is that you have to run what you can afford and what makes you feel good.

HC: Very good post in my opinion.