best low cost mods?
#3
Bullfrog:
Gauges first to monitor everthing, then either Edge EZ (safe) or Edge Comp (little less safe!) Seriously, the Edge EZ gave me enough power for towing my 5th wheel without tearing up my drivetrain. It is a really cheap mod and you can actually FEEL the difference. I would have gone with a Comp or an EZ and injectors but didn't want to have to invest in a transmission at this point.
Gauges first to monitor everthing, then either Edge EZ (safe) or Edge Comp (little less safe!) Seriously, the Edge EZ gave me enough power for towing my 5th wheel without tearing up my drivetrain. It is a really cheap mod and you can actually FEEL the difference. I would have gone with a Comp or an EZ and injectors but didn't want to have to invest in a transmission at this point.
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New Meadows, Idaho
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Well,
I looking at it from a different angle... I'm trying to fix or improve some of the different problems on the 2nd Gen's and the get into the performance. (Breather bottle 4x4 kit)
But... Yes, I would do gauges first before I change the power of the engine.
I would start working on making that beast breathe easier first before dumping fuel! This will help in keeping the tops of the pistons in the cylinders! (reduce EGT) Not in the pan... (Muffler delete, BHAF or Scotty II, Silencer ring) Most of these don't cost much to do but its a start...
Oh ... Most of these will make your truck sound mean!
Pretty soon I will be looking for a BHAF for my truck!
I looking at it from a different angle... I'm trying to fix or improve some of the different problems on the 2nd Gen's and the get into the performance. (Breather bottle 4x4 kit)
But... Yes, I would do gauges first before I change the power of the engine.
I would start working on making that beast breathe easier first before dumping fuel! This will help in keeping the tops of the pistons in the cylinders! (reduce EGT) Not in the pan... (Muffler delete, BHAF or Scotty II, Silencer ring) Most of these don't cost much to do but its a start...
Oh ... Most of these will make your truck sound mean!
Pretty soon I will be looking for a BHAF for my truck!
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: oxnard, ca
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its a big honking air filter . napa has them and so do other place do a search on here and you will come up with part numbers and a template for a heat sheild also can find were to get outer wears for them to. i know the napa part number is 2790 .
#7
Chapter President
If you look in the "Tech facts" section it has many helpful part #'s for our CTD's.....including BHAF #'s.....
Fleetguard ah19037
Wix 42790
Napa 2790
Donaldson b105006
Baldwin pa2820
aFe 20-40044
Fleetguard ah19037
Wix 42790
Napa 2790
Donaldson b105006
Baldwin pa2820
aFe 20-40044
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#9
Registered User
Yep, until 98 there was the 12V fully mechanical, and you've got the one with the electronic controlled VP44 (as you know from changing it. So you do not have a fuel plate.
The best mods I did on my truck: Buying the factory service manual, Cleaning all the electrical connectors, cleaning MAP, IAT sensors, DTT tranny , gauges, Edge Pulse, Injectors.
Factory manual will tell you a lot of interesting facts about your truck. Cleaning all the connectors and the sensors was a night and day difference. Headlights are bright again, engine runs much better etc.
HTH
AlpineRAM
The best mods I did on my truck: Buying the factory service manual, Cleaning all the electrical connectors, cleaning MAP, IAT sensors, DTT tranny , gauges, Edge Pulse, Injectors.
Factory manual will tell you a lot of interesting facts about your truck. Cleaning all the connectors and the sensors was a night and day difference. Headlights are bright again, engine runs much better etc.
HTH
AlpineRAM
#12
Registered User
Just stick it to the tube. You unbolt your stock air box. You can push the bolts through, or ignore them, but it may rub the filter, so watch out. Some guys on here put a piece of 4" pipe inside the neck of the BHAF, the tighten the clamp, so that way you have an extra solid surface to tighten her down. I personally didnt do that and I have no troubles with it slipping off... I cut my heat shield out of a thin piece of metal I had, no template required. I marked the holes from the stock air box, then drilled it and bolted it down. works great...
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