automatic to manual hub conversion
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: hour drive north of Spokane WA
automatic to manual hub conversion
What do I need to do in order to instal manual (warn or other aftermarket) hubs on my Dodge 95 auto in sig?
My front drive train needs gone thru, the U joints from diff to tranny are bad and flopping around. My carrier bearing is also bad and making noise. I need to repack my wheel bearings on the front too.
was thinking might as well install locking hubs while I was at it. Someone was telling me that in order for the front drive train to 'freewheel' and not rotate while going down the road I would need to install a different gear in my diff.
I didn't see anything on search
My front drive train needs gone thru, the U joints from diff to tranny are bad and flopping around. My carrier bearing is also bad and making noise. I need to repack my wheel bearings on the front too.
was thinking might as well install locking hubs while I was at it. Someone was telling me that in order for the front drive train to 'freewheel' and not rotate while going down the road I would need to install a different gear in my diff.
I didn't see anything on search
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 239
Likes: 3
From: hour drive north of Spokane WA
Thanks for the reply
found everthing I needed to know
Found out with my est. mileage per year and est fuel cost with the savings in fuel these hubs provide I would save approx $115.00 bucks per year.
So I'm looking at a good 10 years to pay these things off.
That is of course my factory hubs/bearings and such last that long then I could deduct the cost of replacing that off the purchase price of MS kit.
dang didn't know they were so much!
found everthing I needed to know

Found out with my est. mileage per year and est fuel cost with the savings in fuel these hubs provide I would save approx $115.00 bucks per year.
So I'm looking at a good 10 years to pay these things off.
That is of course my factory hubs/bearings and such last that long then I could deduct the cost of replacing that off the purchase price of MS kit.
dang didn't know they were so much!
Thanks for the reply
found everthing I needed to know
Found out with my est. mileage per year and est fuel cost with the savings in fuel these hubs provide I would save approx $115.00 bucks per year.
So I'm looking at a good 10 years to pay these things off.
That is of course my factory hubs/bearings and such last that long then I could deduct the cost of replacing that off the purchase price of MS kit.
dang didn't know they were so much!
found everthing I needed to know

Found out with my est. mileage per year and est fuel cost with the savings in fuel these hubs provide I would save approx $115.00 bucks per year.
So I'm looking at a good 10 years to pay these things off.
That is of course my factory hubs/bearings and such last that long then I could deduct the cost of replacing that off the purchase price of MS kit.
dang didn't know they were so much!
LOL, What really does make sense as far as a payback on our trucks?
I want to change mine just so I have a PROPER front axle assy. You may also want to look into changing the entire front axle from a 90's Furd F350, in the end, it might be cheaper.
I want to change mine just so I have a PROPER front axle assy. You may also want to look into changing the entire front axle from a 90's Furd F350, in the end, it might be cheaper.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 239
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From: hour drive north of Spokane WA
I wouldn't mind finding out more details about an F350 front end
as for the hub conversion I was just saying it's not purly finacially motovated. The improvement in ride quality and functionality is worth it. I'll be keeping this truck for a long time so I'm going to do it. I did have some sticker shock though!
I don't drive it all that often, but I'll be doing some long road trips (vacationing) so it would sure be nice.
I would love to turn it into a dumping flatbed with built in underbed tool boxes. I want it modular so the sides fold down for snowmobile/atv hauling and fold up for landscaping duty etc.
as for the hub conversion I was just saying it's not purly finacially motovated. The improvement in ride quality and functionality is worth it. I'll be keeping this truck for a long time so I'm going to do it. I did have some sticker shock though!
I don't drive it all that often, but I'll be doing some long road trips (vacationing) so it would sure be nice.
I would love to turn it into a dumping flatbed with built in underbed tool boxes. I want it modular so the sides fold down for snowmobile/atv hauling and fold up for landscaping duty etc.
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new brake lines, some coil/4 link brackets off a 94 up dodge ram, can be 1/2 ton. I found a bent dana 44 on ebay for 40 bucks and bought it. gave the guy an extra 10 bucks to hack the tubes around the brackets so I didn't have to ship the whole axle. heres some pics of my conversion
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/414017/9
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/414017/9
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 239
Likes: 3
From: hour drive north of Spokane WA
nice job on that conversion
It might be a bit more than I want to chew on though. I'll keep an eye out for an axle.
how much total did you have invested into that conversion? if you don't mind
It might be a bit more than I want to chew on though. I'll keep an eye out for an axle.
how much total did you have invested into that conversion? if you don't mind
about 100 bucks for the brake lines. and 40 bucks for the old dana 44 brackets. when I bought the axle I put new ball joints in it, about 120 bucks for all of them I think. thats about it. bought the new axle for 800 off of www.car-part.com and sold the old one to a guy that was putting bigger axles in his 1/2 ton
most of it was grinding and shaping the brackets to fit on the axle. measuring and lining everything up the exact same as it is on my old axle.
most of it was grinding and shaping the brackets to fit on the axle. measuring and lining everything up the exact same as it is on my old axle.
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