I have spent the last 2 hours going through the archives reviewing the pros and cons concerning eliminating the stock air box/ K&N drop-in with a BHAF. I have these questions:

1. Will this void my engine warranty?
2. Is a pre-filter on a BHAF a must have?
3. How much protection does the heat sheild offer from splashing mud/water?
4. Our work place mechanic thinks that it is a bad idea to eliminate the stock air box because the cold air conduit is essential for the turbo to work well. Is he correct?
5. Is the filter minder necessary to have?
6. Is NAPA 2790 protected with wire mesh?

Sorry about all the questions that have already been answered many times before. I just don't want to screw up my newly paid for truck.

Yes, I know that K&N air filters are not a good thing on turbo diesels. That is why I am here

 

1. Maybe, keep the stock air box and throw it on before heading to the dealer for any work.

2. No but it is nice to have

3. Quite a bit, but it will not be totally protected from every possible situation. Many people run the shield and have no problems even in foul weather.

4. Cool air is nice but it will not be the death nell of performance if you pull warmer air into the turbo, especially in stock configuration. The BHAF will actually lower your egt's by as much as 100 deg because the flow much more free. Stock air boxes have problems of their own such as poor sealing.

5. The only filter minder you need is your eye ball. The BHAF will last many times longer than the stock filter. When it looks dirty replace it.

6. Yes the 2790 has wire mesh. Fleetguard makes a marine version that has limited protection against water. I believe the part number is ah19001, correct me if i am wrong.

 

Thanks for the advice. I think I need to call NAPA and see if they have a 2790 in stock.

 

If you want to get technical, they could void some of the warranty for having the K&N in there.

BHAF, imho, is much better filtration than the K&N.


phox

 

Fleetgaurd's marine version of the BHAF flows more air, is unaffected by water, and has both an outside and inside wire mesh to give it more structural strength - important when you consider that you're hanging filter media "above" turbine blades spinning at tens of thousands of rpm.

The down side is that it's quite a bit more money.

 

krazykarl,

You don't have your truck information in your signature so I could be quoting you incorrect info, hopefully not.

We have a special sale on the AFE Pro Gaurd 7 Stage I intakes for the 1994-2002 trucks. They are nearly 15.00 off of the manufacturers MAP prices while inventory supplies last. These are the metal intake tube and filter container systems in PG7. Check our site or call us if you have any questions etc.

Mark @ DPPI

 

Not to mention that it doesn't filter nearly as well. There's a REASON that it flows more air-- the filtration efficiency is less. The minimum spec you need is 99.5% efficient. Does the marine filter meet this?

A marine filter deals with a LOT less dust than an on-road filter does.

Better to stock with the regular Duralite BHAF. Per Donaldson, the media (though exposed) is water resistant, so minor splashes and such should pose no problems.

Justin

 

Thanks for all the advice thus far. I ordered a NAPA BHAF this morning.

 

forget all the research on the stock crap. I researched it for about a month i went and purchased a scotty 2. the best investment ive made in a while.

 

Updated my signature........

 

I will have my filter tomorrow. In the mean time, I have begun gathering additional supplies to make this BHAF happen. I have a section of 4" OD aluminum pipe, and some 1/8" aluminum sheeting (I also have steel at my disposal). Now for the questions:

1. How long should my section of pipe be? I have about 12" of straight aluminum pipe with a 1/16" wall thickness. The OD is right at 4". Should the pipe be long enough for the existing turbo inlet hose clamp to fit on one end of the pipe and find a second hose clamp to attach the NAPA 2790 to the pipe?

2. Would it be an advantage to have enough pipe in order to adjust the arrangment of the turbo inlet tube and filter in the engine compartment?

3. Should I make my shield from aluminum or steel?

Thank you!

 

Karl, you can check my photo gallery for some visual ideas on BHAF heatshield. I have some more I haven't uploaded yet but hope to this weekend that should provide a little more detail. My heatshield is made from 1/8" thick 6061 aluminum and it's oversized a little here and there to provide a little more splash protection. I basically used the template found in the faq, transferred it to cardboard then through trial and error fitting modified it to my liking. Then I transferred it to the aluminum sheet. BTW, unless you can weld aluminum or know someone who can, I would recommend using another more maliable variety of aluminum as 6061 can't be bent at sharp angles w/o risking it breaking in two. I found a good welder who also had a brake press to shear the plate into 2 pieces and weld them together at the proper angle. Overall, heatshield cost me $8 for the metal and $25 for the welding. I also used some 1x1 aluminum angle to suspend the filter and a couple of clothes dryer vent band clamps (one 5" and one 7") to go around the filter and through some slots I carved into the aluminum angle to hold the filter snug to the heatshield.

Also, here's a link to what sounds like a good and low cost source of BHAF and other intake/exhaust components.

http://shop.airflowonline.com/Mercha...tore_Code=AFSI

I haven't actually used them yet but the same DuraLite 2790 filter I got at NAPA and paid about $58 for is about $43 online at Air Flow Online. I'm not affiliated with them; I just like finding less expensive sources for parts.

Steve

 

How much heat would the heat shield be exposed to? I just finished my BHAF installation and all went well. I painted the heat shield black just to clean up my metal work. After it was all said and done, I looked over the label on the can of paint and it said that the paint is not to be used on surfaces that exceed 200 F. Is this possible? Should I worry about this and remove the heat shield and paint it with a different paint?

 

Here is what I ordered:

45HL4 Rubber Intake Elbow 45 Degree 4" 1 $10.70 $10.70
90HL4SL Rubber Intake Elbow 90 Degree 4" 1 $14.25 $14.25
AF-400 T-Bolt Clamp for 4" ID Intake Hoses 1 $4.43 $4.43
B105006 Open Body Duralite Air Cleaner 4" (Dodge/Cummins) 1 $43.13 $43.13
Shipping: UPS Ground: $10.66
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $83.17

From airflowonlne.com.

The problem with the stock elbow is that its meant to fit OVER a piece of hard plastic, where-as the filter is meant to have something fit INSIDE of it. Putting the filter inside of the stock elbow is not going to create the proper seal IMO.

The T-bolt clamp is for the turbo, I will use 99 cent clamps on the other pieces. 4" aluminum piping to connect the 2 elbows and the filter to the elbow. I hope these are the correct degrees I will give put up pics when I'm done.