Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

AFC Mods PLEASE help me understand

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Old 08-30-2007, 10:20 PM
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AFC Mods PLEASE help me understand

Can someone explain to me what Is happening in this series of pictures?

Is there a write up on this mod? I just dont understand what all the AFC does and what mods make it better. I have it off and want to do what I need to now since I have it off and am getting ready to grind a 100 plate for it.
Old 08-30-2007, 10:28 PM
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Do a search, all kinds of articles from modifying it to removing the arm to disable it. It prevents too much fuel to hit the engine til the boost raises enough to handle it without smoke.
Old 08-31-2007, 08:37 AM
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I tried the search before I posted this. I didnt get anywhere. I will try some more.
Old 08-31-2007, 08:41 AM
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If you will wait until tonight I will write up some instructions since there aren't really anywhere...
Old 08-31-2007, 10:35 AM
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ok Cool I can wait
Old 09-01-2007, 09:44 AM
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Howz that write up coming along?
Old 09-01-2007, 12:37 PM
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Well I have pretty much figured it all out except the starwheel, Where does this need to be adjusted? It sets spring tension right?
Old 09-03-2007, 10:30 AM
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Well I guess I am on my own on this one since no one is replying
Old 09-03-2007, 11:30 AM
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you can put it back together on your truck and i forget which way to adjust it exactly but you just take that allen screw out and spin it one way and then test drive it if it feels like you lost power then adjust it theother way. also you can pull out the AFC spring on the backside of the AFC housing behind that rubber plunger in the back of it. you also might think about drilling out that fuel orphus on that brass fitting on the backside of the AFC drill it out to 1/8 in
Old 09-03-2007, 01:16 PM
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AFC spring on the backside of the AFC housing behind that rubber plunger in the back of it
Your talking about between the plunger and the adjusting screw? Cause there is not one there on mine, Should there have been?
Old 09-03-2007, 04:51 PM
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yeah if you open it up there should have been 4 screws on the back or it and if it has not been open before there should be a 1 screw that is different from the rest so that you can't tamper with it but there are ways around that. if you open it up there should be an orange ruber plunger in there and underneath that there should be a spring. that is the AFC spring. you can pull it out which give you a little more smoke and the throtle response is a little bit touchier but you don't need it necessarily. but i have noticede it does cause a higher idle because the Foot doesn't travel all the way back on right by the Plate.
Old 09-04-2007, 07:02 PM
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Sorry about everything man, I was out of town and couldn't get to a computer and then I found out my head failed a pressure check before getting rings and such so I'm a bit ticked off...

Everything in referance to "front" and "back" etc. is in relation to the front of the vehicle and rear of the vehicle.


On the AFC foot cut off 5/16" to 3/8" off the front so it will be able to move farther forward without hitting the housing, you are best off using a cut-off wheel or chop saw and then just deburring the inside with a drill bit. Also on the edge that the govenor arm can ride against grind and polish in a slight J-hook shape so that in valet mode it can still have some top-end fueling. On the opposite side from that edge grind 1/4" away, this will allow the entire arm to be able to set deeper in the plate giving you more possible rack travel. Also on the very top of the foot where that top arm hooks onto it grind that into a half moon shape so it also will be less of a limiting factor.

Take the 4 bolts out that are on the back of the AFC housing and you can then see a orange diaghram, switch the two washers around that hold it in place and grind away some of the AFC housing where that front bolt makes contact with it. You will want to shim that small assembly (front washer, orange diaghram, second "cupped" washer, and nut) rearward as far as you can to where you can barely get that nut tightened enough to hold it all together.

Go to the hardware store and find a spring that is the same size as the stock one but longer and slightly softer, cut it to fill the extra distance that is now available and use it instead of the stock spring.

Grind your plate much deeper, to where the deepest part of it is even with the rivet that goes all the way through the plate holding the two pieces together. Also elongate the holes that the plate is held down through by the two bolts.

And finally to take full advantage of all this shim out your stock plug 2-3mm if you have a 215hp pump and if you have any of the others replace the stock plug with a "Mack" version which is much deeper.

Again sorry it took so long but I was busy all weekend and then I have been livid since being back since I now need another new head If there is anything you need help with PM me and I'll help ya out the best I can...
Old 09-05-2007, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Muddin_dude06
Also on the edge that the govenor arm can ride against grind and polish in a slight J-hook shape so that in valet mode it can still have some top-end fueling. On the opposite side from that edge grind 1/4" away, this will allow the entire arm to be able to set deeper in the plate giving you more possible rack travel. Also on the very top of the foot where that top arm hooks onto it grind that into a half moon shape so it also will be less of a limiting factor.
I just did this stuff to my truck. But could you show me a picture of what its susposed to look like when done. TIA Ken
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