AFC Mods PLEASE help me understand
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AFC Mods PLEASE help me understand
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Do a search, all kinds of articles from modifying it to removing the arm to disable it. It prevents too much fuel to hit the engine til the boost raises enough to handle it without smoke.
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you can put it back together on your truck and i forget which way to adjust it exactly but you just take that allen screw out and spin it one way and then test drive it if it feels like you lost power then adjust it theother way. also you can pull out the AFC spring on the backside of the AFC housing behind that rubber plunger in the back of it. you also might think about drilling out that fuel orphus on that brass fitting on the backside of the AFC drill it out to 1/8 in
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AFC spring on the backside of the AFC housing behind that rubber plunger in the back of it
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yeah if you open it up there should have been 4 screws on the back or it and if it has not been open before there should be a 1 screw that is different from the rest so that you can't tamper with it but there are ways around that. if you open it up there should be an orange ruber plunger in there and underneath that there should be a spring. that is the AFC spring. you can pull it out which give you a little more smoke and the throtle response is a little bit touchier but you don't need it necessarily. but i have noticede it does cause a higher idle because the Foot doesn't travel all the way back on right by the Plate.
#12
Sorry about everything man, I was out of town and couldn't get to a computer and then I found out my head failed a pressure check before getting rings and such so I'm a bit ticked off...
Everything in referance to "front" and "back" etc. is in relation to the front of the vehicle and rear of the vehicle.
On the AFC foot cut off 5/16" to 3/8" off the front so it will be able to move farther forward without hitting the housing, you are best off using a cut-off wheel or chop saw and then just deburring the inside with a drill bit. Also on the edge that the govenor arm can ride against grind and polish in a slight J-hook shape so that in valet mode it can still have some top-end fueling. On the opposite side from that edge grind 1/4" away, this will allow the entire arm to be able to set deeper in the plate giving you more possible rack travel. Also on the very top of the foot where that top arm hooks onto it grind that into a half moon shape so it also will be less of a limiting factor.
Take the 4 bolts out that are on the back of the AFC housing and you can then see a orange diaghram, switch the two washers around that hold it in place and grind away some of the AFC housing where that front bolt makes contact with it. You will want to shim that small assembly (front washer, orange diaghram, second "cupped" washer, and nut) rearward as far as you can to where you can barely get that nut tightened enough to hold it all together.
Go to the hardware store and find a spring that is the same size as the stock one but longer and slightly softer, cut it to fill the extra distance that is now available and use it instead of the stock spring.
Grind your plate much deeper, to where the deepest part of it is even with the rivet that goes all the way through the plate holding the two pieces together. Also elongate the holes that the plate is held down through by the two bolts.
And finally to take full advantage of all this shim out your stock plug 2-3mm if you have a 215hp pump and if you have any of the others replace the stock plug with a "Mack" version which is much deeper.
Again sorry it took so long but I was busy all weekend and then I have been livid since being back since I now need another new head If there is anything you need help with PM me and I'll help ya out the best I can...
Everything in referance to "front" and "back" etc. is in relation to the front of the vehicle and rear of the vehicle.
On the AFC foot cut off 5/16" to 3/8" off the front so it will be able to move farther forward without hitting the housing, you are best off using a cut-off wheel or chop saw and then just deburring the inside with a drill bit. Also on the edge that the govenor arm can ride against grind and polish in a slight J-hook shape so that in valet mode it can still have some top-end fueling. On the opposite side from that edge grind 1/4" away, this will allow the entire arm to be able to set deeper in the plate giving you more possible rack travel. Also on the very top of the foot where that top arm hooks onto it grind that into a half moon shape so it also will be less of a limiting factor.
Take the 4 bolts out that are on the back of the AFC housing and you can then see a orange diaghram, switch the two washers around that hold it in place and grind away some of the AFC housing where that front bolt makes contact with it. You will want to shim that small assembly (front washer, orange diaghram, second "cupped" washer, and nut) rearward as far as you can to where you can barely get that nut tightened enough to hold it all together.
Go to the hardware store and find a spring that is the same size as the stock one but longer and slightly softer, cut it to fill the extra distance that is now available and use it instead of the stock spring.
Grind your plate much deeper, to where the deepest part of it is even with the rivet that goes all the way through the plate holding the two pieces together. Also elongate the holes that the plate is held down through by the two bolts.
And finally to take full advantage of all this shim out your stock plug 2-3mm if you have a 215hp pump and if you have any of the others replace the stock plug with a "Mack" version which is much deeper.
Again sorry it took so long but I was busy all weekend and then I have been livid since being back since I now need another new head If there is anything you need help with PM me and I'll help ya out the best I can...
#13
Also on the edge that the govenor arm can ride against grind and polish in a slight J-hook shape so that in valet mode it can still have some top-end fueling. On the opposite side from that edge grind 1/4" away, this will allow the entire arm to be able to set deeper in the plate giving you more possible rack travel. Also on the very top of the foot where that top arm hooks onto it grind that into a half moon shape so it also will be less of a limiting factor.
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