Sorry, I know it is covered so much here, but we are in a bit of a hurry and all the searching is going to take me too long.

Bro. has a 98 QC 5 spd. and is looking to put a plate on. Which one?? 12, 11, where can I find instructions for this?? Where is that infomous star wheel??

I am an overvalved guy and this mechanical stuff has me baffled.

We are also going to put a hi flow muffler on to help out


Thanks
Chris

 

To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate. I personally prefer a 100.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.

 

WOW!!! I hope you cut and pasted that!!

Is the wastegate like the ones on the 24 V?? If so, I got that part. Is there any real good pics of this? Like I said, I am a newb. to these undervalved engines.

Looks like a 10 plate is where I want to go then

Thanks
Chris

 

Rick (Txdiesel007) originally cut and pasted it together, I cleaned it up a bit one night when I couldn't sleep.

Here are some cutaways of the pump.
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182

The wastgate is controled by a hose coming from the AFC housing, on the top of the pump. (The part you remove to get at the plate.)

 

First and foremost

thanks a bunch nick! Glad that i could help and that you made a version "2.0" of "the book" as Cin's dodge and others call it

Second of all, a 98 i do beleive has the same steel line that runs from the back of the AFC, I do believe from the AFC it starts as a rubber line, and from the back of the AFC, and it goes and bonds with a steel line that runs to the wastegate on the turbo, Not sure if its similar to the 24v ones, but this should give u a visual as towards where to follow it on ur new truck...

Congrats on the find!

Rick

 

You're welcome Rick, and I'm glad I can help after yall helped me so much!

I am not sure exactly how it runs on a 98. Other than it goes from the AFC to the wastgate

 

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I would like to add, A good chisel and properly selected screwdriver will make the job alot easier. The chisel is made to cut and the right size screwdriver will fit in and break the bolt loose easily as it is usually not torqued very hard. This procedure also allows you to reinstall the bolt.

 

as far as plates go I still have a #12 in my 98 12v. big differance from stock. 12 is good on the clutch. an 11 will hold for a period of time and a 10/100 will never hold if you get carried away. You'll need a clutch upgrade. I played with my starwheel too and ended up putting it back in the middle due to economy. Good luck!

 

A 100 will hold on a stock clutch depending on plate position and how you drive. I have had a 100 for 10 months now...

 

That was a big help for me. Thanks alot!

 

I had a 100 for a year or so and it held no problems..

again its all right foot control...

Rick

 

thanks guys. I think we are going to go for an 11 plate, hi flow exhaust, EGT gauge on the column and a southbend clutch. Should be a pretty fun project.

Chris