Because a #10 is a hotter plate for the small '94&'95 small pumps than the #6. This doesn't apply to the bigger pump used in later years.

 

Jim, in that dyno, the power drops off rapidly after 2600rpm... Is that a function of the #10 de-fueling at upper RPM's?

 

So would there be power to make switching from a #4 to #10? Why is there a difference betweet pumps and the way the plates work?

 

Jim, in that dyno, the power drops off rapidly after 2600rpm... Is that a function of the #10 de-fueling at upper RPM's?

Yep, you can call it that or an EGT saver.

The #10 will work great in any pump as long as you have Gov Springs with it, and more so in the 215 pump, that plate is just flat radical in that pump but can be made tame just by simply sliding it back and I think it the best plate you can buy across the board.

Jim

 

still a newbie trying to understand this stuff....so with the 3k gsk are you supposed to slide the #10 all the way forward?

sorry for resurecting an old thread!

 

Nope, about 3/4 forward is about all your going to get out of it.

Jim

 

so a big air filter, a number 10 about 3/4 of the way up, a 3k gsk, and 4" exhaust turbo back. with all that, from what i am reading, i would be above 300 hp and 800 ft-lbs?

 

riffman,


From my studies that is correct, and I don't think the 4" pipe is needed either, until 350-400 hp. just my .002

 

so if i added bosch 370 injectors after all that was done, what would happen?

 

Om my 94 I dynoed 295.6HP with a #10 and with the stock gov springs tightend down 2wo cliccks on each side. I don't know what I'm pushing now but I would say closer to 400 and I tow all the time with a stock cold side on the turbo and a 18 housing on the hot side. I can still peg the Egt's but i also can controll them with my right foot so towing anything so far has been like normal.
DM01