12V CAM IN A 24V? P-PUMP SWAP Qs?
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12V CAM IN A 24V? P-PUMP SWAP Qs?
Doing a p-pump swap and dont have money for a fass or airdog so i thought i might use the 12v cam and lift pump. I know it will work but will i be hurting my performance?
Also, if the 12v cam doesn't work out. right now i have a holley blue runing up to my stock lift pump and i can squeeze 25psi out of it. can i add another holley blue to the other one and boost my psi.
Thanks guys.
Also, if the 12v cam doesn't work out. right now i have a holley blue runing up to my stock lift pump and i can squeeze 25psi out of it. can i add another holley blue to the other one and boost my psi.
Thanks guys.
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The 12v cam is a downgrade to what the 24v already is. Look at an aftermarket cam. You can get regrinds quite reasonably, and it would help performance all around. You're in this far, its a perfect time to do with something better.
I ran my conversion for several months on a VP FASS. It ran around 16 psi with the VP, I was at 18 with the p-pump. I didn't notice much gain going to the higher pressure, but I never dynoed to see if there was a difference or not.
I ran my conversion for several months on a VP FASS. It ran around 16 psi with the VP, I was at 18 with the p-pump. I didn't notice much gain going to the higher pressure, but I never dynoed to see if there was a difference or not.
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I have to agree with Tate, I went a different route with mine, but the end result is similar. I'm running a 12 valve in my 2000 with a Walbro pump that was regulated to run 22psi with the VP and is now running 18psi with the P-pump. The fuel pressure doesn't move much at all, even on a full blast run. I also have all 1/2" hose and -8 JIC fittings all the way to the injection pump from the walbro through the stock 2000 filter housing.
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not to hijack this thread but to you guys that have done this what do you do about your gauges in the dash? i really want to start getting together all my stuff to do this. Also do you loose your cruise control
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The 24v does have a hole in the side of the block. It is behind the mounting plate for the lift pump bracket. I put in an aftermarket cam and converted my fuel pump to a 12 valve mechanical type. If you do convert to using the mechanical 12 valve fuel pump you will need a spacer for the pump on the side of the block. Cummins makes one and is only a few bucks if I recall. On a 12 valve you have the fuel heater assembly etc that fits between the block and the pump that you wont have hence the spacer. I think my fuel pump conversion ran me 125.00 ish (pump, gaskets, spacer, bolts, a couple fittings for the pump) all came from cummins except the two pump fittings. If you go this route do make sure the cam does have the lift pump lobe as not all do.
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I decided to use my electric fuel system for now, i didnt want to use the 12v cam.
Hey, are These things only supposed to have 2 cam bearings? Got to looking last night and there is only one in the front and one in back. Does it ride on the middle journals at all?
Hey, are These things only supposed to have 2 cam bearings? Got to looking last night and there is only one in the front and one in back. Does it ride on the middle journals at all?
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as long as you don't remove the ECM and PCM, the guages work just fine... if you have vacuum cruise control you can make it work. I don't know of anybody with the electronic cruise who has figured out how to do it...
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