10 second
10 second
Getting closer to the truck. At the same dealer i found a 98 24 and a 98 12v. 24 cost 14900 and the and the 12 14200. one was in the 80k and one was in the 90 k for mileage but cant remember off the top of my head. Lookin to make a 10 sec ( if possible) truck. Brother has a lil Tibby that has a all time best of 11.143. So gotta try and keep up haha. Which truck would be the best to accomplish that? Mod cost isnt much of an issue. Ive planned on about 8k in modding to accomplish this. Also trying to do it on regular pump gas. But im open for drugs since he pulls it off with a 120 Nos new cam heads and intake, Just like to find a complete sleeper if possible<br>Has anyone pulled that off? Any help welcome thanks
Re:10 second
I dont know if you could run 10 minutes on "regular pump gas"
. But seriously Id go with the properly valved vehicle...In case you were wondering the 12 valve is the properly valved vehicle 8). A 10 second truck would be AWESOME ;D ;D ;D. Let us know how you turn out.<br> Good luck <br> Wheels
. But seriously Id go with the properly valved vehicle...In case you were wondering the 12 valve is the properly valved vehicle 8). A 10 second truck would be AWESOME ;D ;D ;D. Let us know how you turn out.<br> Good luck <br> Wheels
Re:10 second
I'm kinda partial to the 24v's, since that's what I have, but I must agree with the others. While I am not an expert, from what I have learned, the 12v is easier, and cheaper, to bomb.
I don't think you can put a Stoopid pump on a 24v easily.
Chris
I don't think you can put a Stoopid pump on a 24v easily.
Chris
Re:10 second
you wont make it into the 10s, and if you make it into the 11's you'll have to make more than 700hp. you can make it into the 12s with an auto and a lot of money
you're talking $4,000 to $5,000 with billet parts in the auto, big injectors, twin turbos, cam, pump mods. you're talking around $11,000 for the performance parts. and 4x4 is necessary to hold traction unless you have BIG slicks in the rear (yeah, they'd have to be like dragster slicks to hold the first 100feet). <br><br>so, you can make a 12second truck, but there wont be any 10 second trucks for a while (maybe diesel dynamics will make a 1000hp cummins soon ;D).<br><br>Tom
you're talking $4,000 to $5,000 with billet parts in the auto, big injectors, twin turbos, cam, pump mods. you're talking around $11,000 for the performance parts. and 4x4 is necessary to hold traction unless you have BIG slicks in the rear (yeah, they'd have to be like dragster slicks to hold the first 100feet). <br><br>so, you can make a 12second truck, but there wont be any 10 second trucks for a while (maybe diesel dynamics will make a 1000hp cummins soon ;D).<br><br>Tom
Re:10 second
ha, yeah i figured 10 was askin a lot. More of curious if it was possible. and what engine to go with. Like it was said easier and cheeper for the 12vs. But from what i understand 24s are more of an streetable truck to begin with and since the money isnt a prob who knows. Wonder were i can get unbias opinions at haha. 12vs are gonna say that and 24s the 24. I have a 24 that i enjoy and have never owned a 12. big desisions of life haha<br>
Re:10 second
12valve. it's a lot easier to make it more streetable by adjusting the AFC wheel, etc. the 24valves can be turned down by the boxes, but it gets to a point where the injectors will start smoking too easily for street driving. you can set up a 24v right, but it's more $ and harder to do.
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Re:10 second
Man. I wish money was no problem for me.
You mind donating any of it to me?
I like my 24 valve alot. Power is pretty easy to do. Just up the box. Simple plug and play. Then you go and add bigger injectors(and I do mean BIG), another turbo, maybe some head and cam work, some drugs (depends on your preference), a heavy duty tranny, and boom, your in the 12's. Now, if it was only that easy.
With a 12 valve, you'll need basically the same thing, cept the box. And you'll need a GSK (rev kit) kit, and a new fuel plate. Cheaper? Yes. Easier? Depends on if you like to get your hands dirty or not. Nice thing with the 24 valves and the boxes is that you can turn down the fueling on the boxes from inside the cab. Very nice for smoke control and EGT control. Plus you don't have to get your hands dirty
. If money really isn't a problem, do a P-pump conversion on the 24 valve. Then you'll have the same injection (mechanical) pump as the 12 valve.
You mind donating any of it to me?
I like my 24 valve alot. Power is pretty easy to do. Just up the box. Simple plug and play. Then you go and add bigger injectors(and I do mean BIG), another turbo, maybe some head and cam work, some drugs (depends on your preference), a heavy duty tranny, and boom, your in the 12's. Now, if it was only that easy.
With a 12 valve, you'll need basically the same thing, cept the box. And you'll need a GSK (rev kit) kit, and a new fuel plate. Cheaper? Yes. Easier? Depends on if you like to get your hands dirty or not. Nice thing with the 24 valves and the boxes is that you can turn down the fueling on the boxes from inside the cab. Very nice for smoke control and EGT control. Plus you don't have to get your hands dirty
. If money really isn't a problem, do a P-pump conversion on the 24 valve. Then you'll have the same injection (mechanical) pump as the 12 valve.
Re:10 second
haha nah thats fine id keep it. But its whats nice about being 19 living at home going to school on a full ride and working 30 hours aw eek for the mighty 14 a hour. The money goes right into toys. a few bills but not many. Just insurance for the car haha. What is this p-pump conversion? I guess ih avent heard of that. I dont know much of the mech stuff on the 12s either but hey im a fast study. But i just thought get a aftermarket lift with a pusher pump, that owuld be fine. How much would hte conversion cost? I say money not a problem but im no millionare haha.
Re:10 second
doing a p-pump conversion on a 24valve wont necessarily gain you more power. you could actually lose power (i know of one instance where it's down 100hp from the VP-44). as long as you know what you're doing, it can be done right. the biggest thing to remember is that it doesn't necessarily matter HOW MUCH fuel you put through the motor, it's how much gets atomized. you'd be surprised to find out that a lot of those pullers aren't making the very high hp that you'd think they're making. PLUS, the aftermarket p-pumps may put out more smoke and more power, but you can gain the same power through a basically stock pump.
i tell ya what, if you want to learn some more "insider stuff" that doesn't really get posted on the boards, then give Joe Donelly a call. hell, i was taking notes the couple times that i talked to him.
oh yeah...12 valvers rule :P :P
Tom
i tell ya what, if you want to learn some more "insider stuff" that doesn't really get posted on the boards, then give Joe Donelly a call. hell, i was taking notes the couple times that i talked to him.
oh yeah...12 valvers rule :P :P
Tom
Re:10 second
Undervalver.
The 12 valves use a mechanical injection pump. They are a little easier to mess with plus more reliable. The 24 valves use an electronic one that has been known to fail when pushed hard. It's quite pricey to replace a VP44 ($1300-1800). The P-pump can supply about 4x more fuel than a VP44. Jetpilot just got a P-pump conversion done on his. I don't know how much it costs, but it's expensive and very labor intensive.
The 12 valves use a mechanical injection pump. They are a little easier to mess with plus more reliable. The 24 valves use an electronic one that has been known to fail when pushed hard. It's quite pricey to replace a VP44 ($1300-1800). The P-pump can supply about 4x more fuel than a VP44. Jetpilot just got a P-pump conversion done on his. I don't know how much it costs, but it's expensive and very labor intensive.
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