#10 plate vs. #100 plate
#16
That's what I am looking for. I really love the way the #10 comes on. But, with the auto it just seems to lose steam in the higher rpm section. I am hoping the timing will help some and I just ordered a #100 plate. I will see how it goes! Thanks again!
#17
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I had no idea people paid for 100 plates...? I had a 0 plate on my old 160 pump motor and it ran good but my mileage went to crap due to a bad injector.
I have a 215 motor in my truck now and am ready to drive it monday, I will try the 12 plate in it, I have a 10 plate to play with also.
I have a 215 motor in my truck now and am ready to drive it monday, I will try the 12 plate in it, I have a 10 plate to play with also.
#18
I just got my truck back from having the timing advanced. That really made a difference in the way it fuels all the way through the rpm range. That really gave me what I was looking for! Thanks!
#19
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I just swapped out my #10 for #100, I lost power. I found that I didn't tighten the clamp on my intake horn boot. I tightened it now, but didn't get to drive it yet. That wouldn't have been the only thing wrong, could it? Wouldn't I still have a fueling issue, or would that being loose make my truck a complete turd? I couldn't spool the turbo at all, so it didn't blow the boot off, and I could here it leaking in the cab.
#21
I ran a #100 in my old '97. It pulled hard until just under 3k because of the stock gov spring. I drove the truck everyday for over 2.5 years with the #100 plate ...city, highway, light towing. I don't think it was ever a "PITA" to drive. Had a stock HX35, Starwheel Turned a few clicks, BHAF, NV4500, 3.55's, everything else was stock and my EGT's NEVER saw 1000*...not once.
PS: I've never removed the intake, or even the fuel line clamps when doing a fuel plate...just gotta twist your arms through there and have the right tools.
PS: I've never removed the intake, or even the fuel line clamps when doing a fuel plate...just gotta twist your arms through there and have the right tools.
#22
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I just swapped out my #10 for #100, I lost power. I found that I didn't tighten the clamp on my intake horn boot. I tightened it now, but didn't get to drive it yet. That wouldn't have been the only thing wrong, could it? Wouldn't I still have a fueling issue, or would that being loose make my truck a complete turd? I couldn't spool the turbo at all, so it didn't blow the boot off, and I could here it leaking in the cab.
#24
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Just an FYI, I know I've heard moving the plate a little does a lot, but WOW! So I tightened my intake horn boot and it got a little better, but was still not what it was with the 10. The 100 I got from ebay and I got to thinking that when I put it in, this may be hard to explain, I slid it all the way forward and the AFC housing wouldn't line up with the holes because of how the top of the plate where it bolts down was cut. So I had to slide the plate back a little to get the housing on. So I pulled the plate out and saw where it was hitting on the AFC cover and I had to grind it down a little, put it back in, slid everything forward and it's a whole new animal!
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