Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

#10 plate vs. #100 plate

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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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#10 plate vs. #100 plate

What performance differences will there be with either a #10 plate vs. a #100 plate on my 12v manual 98 cummins?
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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#10 will keep your egts lower.
#100 may give you more hp but you might not be able to use them before egts go though the roof.
#100 requires a lot more foot control than a #10, can be a PITA when towing.
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Old Jun 17, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...5&d=1244205658

theres a link to a picture of a good "template" if you want to call it that. you will be able to see that a 100 plate is very close to a 0 plate with the difference being that a 100 plate limits your low end fueling more. a 100 plate will give you more power like infidel said. but without some more supporting mods, like more air, your EGT's will be insane. a 10 plate is very controlable. and you can always grind a 10 plate to a 100 plate if you dont like the 10 but you cant go the other way.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by infidel
#100 requires a lot more foot control than a #10, can be a PITA when towing.
If the AFC is the same for both plates, regualr driving won't change with it.

10 plate defuels on the top end, which I never liked. Thats whey I run 0/100 plates, stronger top end. AFC controls the bottom end, so 0/10/100 doesn't matter a whole lot in that respect.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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Hey, I was digging through some older threads and this one peaked my interest. Check my sig, I have a 1998 auto with a 3K GSK on it. But, it seems to just fizzle out in the upper RPM range. It does really well up to about 2000-2200 RPMs but then real power seems to vanish. Would a #100 plate make a difference in the upper RPM range?
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Would a #100 plate make a difference in the upper RPM range?
No plate will, what you need is a governor spring kit (GSK) that will increase fuel cutoff to a higher rpm.
One source> http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/40...it-583-35.html

Install> http://pacbrake.com/PDF/L5658.PDF
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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4K Kit

I have that exact kit. But, when the guy installed it he said that I should leave out the inner springs unless I got the 60 lb valve springs. I am not really interested in going that drastic.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 03:56 PM
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If you put in a 100 plate, it will help out your top end, but it won't extend your rpm range. The 10 plate defuels the top, the 0/100 doesn't, so you will have more power up higher.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by efbeason
I have that exact kit. But, when the guy installed it ...
Did he advance the timing? You need around 15° to help the 2,000+ rpm hp curve.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Fueling around
Did he advance the timing? You need around 15° to help the 2,000+ rpm hp curve.
No, but my pump is off right now and before it goes back on it will be advanced. I don't know how much. I told the guy who has it off to do what he thought was best (he said about 16 degrees) because I certainly don't know. I really don't need any more rpm's. It will rev all the way up to 3000 and past. I have never really pushed it to see where it completely defeuls. But, I have definitely had it up to around 3200. I just wondered if the #100 would fuel harder in the upper rpm range. Thanks a bundle for all the great information!
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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I just switched from the #10 plate to the #100 on my truck. I haven't pulled with it yet but, running up and down the mountains here, it actually runs a little cooler and pulls harder up top now but, that is because I can drive the turbo harder as well. I broke the shaft in my HX35 a week before I changed plates so, I dropped in HX35/40 Hybrid we had in the shop and drove for a week on the #10, no other changes. It would flatten out on top and only pull 28lbs of boost. I switched to the #100, keeping the same AFC housing placement and approximately the same plate position, maybe a little forward, and I can pull 33lbs and it runs about 100 degrees cooler holding a steady 80 mph climbing Interstate 70 going West out of Denver.

Right now we have 17 degrees of advance on the pump and it is just a little too much. I get a little flutter out of it at high rpm under WOT. I will back it off a degree or so this weekend and see what I get.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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If I have another p-pump truck which I will it will have a 100 plate in it. I had a 0 plate and didn't like it. In my opinion nothing drives like a p-pump with plate 4000 springs and good timing. I miss it.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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What about exhaust temps with a stock turbo? Will they run hotter with a #100 than with a #10? Thanks!
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by efbeason
What about exhaust temps with a stock turbo? Will they run hotter with a #100 than with a #10? Thanks!

I would assume the stock turbo wouldn't be able to keep up with the #100 plate so, it would be hotter than the #10 but, I didn't get to try it since my stock turbo let go right before I was going to change plates
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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It all depends on plate position. You can make the 10 fuel harder than the 100 by having it in a more forward position. If the deepest part of the 10 plate is in the same place as the deepest part of the 100 plate, the mid range will be the same between the two, but the 100 will have the better top end.
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