#10 or #12 Cam Plate
#10 or #12 Cam Plate
Hey guys,
I have been reading on here for the past couple of months and I am contemplating either a #10 plate or a #12 for my ride. Right now, it is absolutely bone stock except for a four inch exhaust system I put on it. I do not want to spend all the extra cash for gauges, tranny upgrades, etc. So, my question is this: Would a #10 plate up the hp enought to warrant tranny upgrades, pyro, etc. if all I am doing is driving and not towing? Basically all I do is drive the truck and very seldom tow anything. What about a #12 cam plate? Thanks for any advise.
I have been reading on here for the past couple of months and I am contemplating either a #10 plate or a #12 for my ride. Right now, it is absolutely bone stock except for a four inch exhaust system I put on it. I do not want to spend all the extra cash for gauges, tranny upgrades, etc. So, my question is this: Would a #10 plate up the hp enought to warrant tranny upgrades, pyro, etc. if all I am doing is driving and not towing? Basically all I do is drive the truck and very seldom tow anything. What about a #12 cam plate? Thanks for any advise.
I agree TX. A 12 plate ran mine up to 1200* in the stock position!! The 10 in the stock location put it through the roof
. With my sig. I still have to watch it when lugging (under 2100rpm) or towing. I have the 12 plate and some stockers to grind to whatever if you need one. PM me for details.

. With my sig. I still have to watch it when lugging (under 2100rpm) or towing. I have the 12 plate and some stockers to grind to whatever if you need one. PM me for details.
if you put in a 10 plate without having a pyrometer to know when to take your foot out of it, you'll burn up the engine in 1 test ride.what makes more sense:200 for a gauge? or 7,000 for a new engine? I got mine to 1400* in about 4 seconds. without a gauge there, I woulda just left my foot in it, and it would have been the dumbest thing I've ever done. dont waste a cummins engine over trying to save a few bucks. mod it the rite way and get a pyro first, and drive the truck normal (like you stole it ) to see how high egts are stock. then change the plate, and watch the egt climb twice as fast.
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I agree TX. A 12 plate ran mine up to 1200* in the stock position!! The 10 in the stock location put it through the roof
. With my sig. I still have to watch it when lugging (under 2100rpm) or towing. I have the 12 plate and some stockers to grind to whatever if you need one. PM me for details.

. With my sig. I still have to watch it when lugging (under 2100rpm) or towing. I have the 12 plate and some stockers to grind to whatever if you need one. PM me for details.Don't add fuel without gauges, just makes sense to keep an eye on things first.
Good choice to wait for gauges first. I've seen some for sale in the classifieds. Get at least a pyro and boost gauge. My auto tranny seems to be holding up to the mods I have. I drive it normal though. No drag racing, etc.
wanna play russian roulette with ur engine? anyways that said and done a 10 is a heck of a kick over stock, but if you dont tow often why not a 100? i ran one before with a stock 35 and still managed... now i have twins and well even with Dragonflies its a manageable ride...
Rick
Check out citydiesel.net, they have a gauge and pod kit for $200. Or check the classifieds/ebay for some used ones, good deals are out there.
a crapola gauge could kill ur engine.. i went isspro and have about 400 in the setup includin install and never looked back..... here are some pics...
Pyro, FP and boost...


RIck
The gauge kit from citydiesel.net contains the boost and pyro Rick pictured there. I've got them in my 97. They are cheap in comparison to others, but still good quality.
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etn550
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
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Apr 1, 2010 12:12 PM



