whats the deal with these, would it be a benefit or its it for crazy applications, i plan to be runnin a sledpuller 66 with jammer 5's 550-600 hp range, lemme know

 

you don't need a copper gasket at those power levels... nor do you want one if this is a street driven vehicle

 

http://www.haisleymachine.com/Head%2...0&%20Studs.htm

 

What would be even more valuable would be to provide the reasoning behind the recommendation. Anyone can read verbatim off a website

 

Copper tends to have coolant and oil leaks if used everyday. They seal the combustion chambers good though. I have been running a stock headgasket for 2 years w/ arp studs and twins with no problems. I have hit over 70 lbs of boost many times, and in fact did it last night playing with a Ford Lightning. If your head is flat and the studs are put in right you can be ok with a stock gasket. I try to always let the engine get to 190 degrees before getting on it hard. I have a new head built with orings and porting but I dont plan on putting it on till mine blows. I am thinking a little n2o might speed that up but it is holding so far. Meat ball your etc gasket should be fine if you stud and have a little common sence (sp)? Tim

 

thanks fellas, much obliged

 

What is needed headgasket & stud wise to reliably deal with n2o? What is the low down running n2o with the Cummins? Lots of the Chebie folks are doing it with some big #s.

 

To run nitrous you need to O-ring your head and preferably use studs...... Also tuning on a dyno is essential to get it operating at its optimum. On another note you should probably wastegate your turbo to run giggle gas.

Doug

 

When you were running squeeze didn't you pull the 12mm studs right out of the block??





Justin