not looking to p-pump my 24v, gonna buy a short or long block 12v and completely build it up then swap it.

i wanna know how hard it will be to make such things like the dash gauges, and other electronics work.

what other concerns are there?

 

I was looking into doing that with my 98 24V before just swapping trucks.
A couple of hurdles are the tach, CEL, and CC.
IIRC the dash cluster and wiring harnesses are different ( pre and post PCM )
You would probably be able to make it all work if you had a 98 12v doner truck but it wont come easy.

 

Ive been considering this swap some day far into the future if I ever get tired of my 24V. So far, my thoughts would be to go all mechanical on the gauges from an aftermarket source. Ditch the factory cluster and make a new one. The engine and drivetrain I wouldn't think would be much of a hassle. Does anyone know if boost tubes, radiator hoses, etc. are close? I think if you could get ahold of a donor truck or drivetrain the rest would be just a matter of your creativity and how simple you want to make it.

I like my truck a lot and really don't want to buy an older truck just to get a 12V. Also, my truck is paid off and is in really good shape. I think a 12V swap would be a great way to make it an even better truck some day. However, until the 24V goes kaput or if I ever start running into electrical problems I doubt Im going to worry about it too much right now.

Well, thats my .02

Keep ideas coming.

 

i have all mechanical guages on mine, its easier then trying to get all the factory ones to work. the only one i hope works is the speedometer. i put the dash in the other night and turned the key on and the dash lit up and worked ( the warning lights came on and then went out like they should and odometer is lit up) but i cant move it yet to see if the speedometer will work. As for the radiator hoses and stuff it should all work but im not sure about the ac and heater lines because i dont have that stuff

 

youre not allowed to work on my truck nemore. i can see you now takin out some misc. bolts and ill come back from the bathroom just to ask the question "where'd my engine go?". lol
if ur serious ill free up some weekends to give ya a hand doin the swap.

 

It would be alot easier to just p-pump your 24 valve, only the CEL will have to be disabled, and everything else will work

 

There's a guy in my chapter down here that put a 12v into a 24v. Can't remember if he put a 12v cluster in or just pulled all of the dash lights out of the 24v and rigged it to make it work. Joe Hellman did all of the work.