got a used enclosed trailer, and dropping tie-downs in the deck.

setting it up multi purpose: haul bikes, cars, furniture, so it's nice to have tiedown's all over.


problem is, you have to cut holes in the deck.
I have a quality drill, a Milwaukee Magnum Holeshotter, IIRC
i have a quality mandrel & hole saw, i think it's a Makita or something, from HomeDepot

i have the mandrel in tightly, have the saw attached to the mandrel securely,
and have a long enough pilot bit.

but it will KICK BACK like a mule.
it SCARES me.

i bent the original pilot bit,
then SNAPPED one last nite.
been going easy since snapping the one bit in half.

i hold it "open hand" and try to brace it against my leg, or something, but it KICKS.

i have tried going slow, going fast,
nothing seems to make it do it less.

i did a BUNCH already, and wanted to do three more.
scared of breaking a finger, arm, leg.

a buddy came over, and basically called me a sissy for being afraid of a power tool, and then he tried it....

and he agreed. it took him forever to do 2 going real slow, and it still kicked back a bunch.



the skitter across some of those is where it kicked back and crawled around.














it is much worse if you catch a piece of the metal floor, but that's expected.

 

Jeez, I don't know what to tell you. I use hole saws all the time, but in metal, Anywhere from 12 gauge all the way up to 1" thick stuff, but I've never had one kick back or bind so bad that it threatened to take my arm off. I use a lot of cutting oil, but again, that won't help you in wood. My drill DOES have an additional handle on it tho. I noticed yours does not. Maybe that would help?

 

When I use a hole saw I pull it out frequently to clear the chips. They do want to bind if you try to keep them cutting constantly. You also have to be careful to drill straight. They will bind if you are trying to drill a curved hole.

 

Aren't all round holes curved? I mean, sure, a square hole isn't curved, but I've never seen a hole saw that would cut a square hole either.

 

Angular hole.....

Smarty pants.

 

a million comedians out of work...
.

yeah, ok, pulling out to clear the chips sounds good.
do you blow the chips out with compressed air, or just pull the saw out?

that's the SMALL holes for the 500# tie downs for the bikes.

the 1500# d-rings for the cars are even bigger, and cause more problems. (both are in the pics up top, but we are drilling small in the pics)

 

Jeeez, I ask one legitimate, innocent question...
.

That's a good point. I guess I do that too but didn't think of mentioning it because I kinda HAVE to pull it out of the cut to apply more oil, which I do liberally and often. I DO blow it out with air as well, gives the saw a clean surface to continue the cut in. Makes sense tho!~

 

You know, the other thing I just thought of is that I use a BIG 3/4" drill to drive the hole saw. Maybe the extra weight of the drill helps stabilize it too?

 

Here's some tips for you..

1- find the handle that came with the drill as the Milwaukee Magnum Hole shooter does have a lot of torque (if you can't find it a piece of pipe and a long bolt will work to) I use to own one!!

2- Drill the pilot hole fist with a 1/4" bit then go into the wood slowly, clean the wood out of the hole saw before going in the metal, keep the metal lubed with oil to keep things from getting hot and binding..

 

I generally run the drill about half speed. What generally causes a bind is when all of the teeth grab at the same time. I slowly rotate the drill around the hole off axis a bit so only one part of the hole saw is cutting at a time. I am assuming the wood is dry, and not swelling to grab the hole saw.

One other thing, you really don't want a really high torque drill when you are cutting holes. It is better to have the drill stall than kick back and grab you. The drill will win EVERY time.

I have seen one broken jaw, and one rather large piece of hair and scalp removed, and one broken wrist by a high torque drill before. Granted it was operator error, but it would not have happened if 1. they were running the drill at a slower speed and 2. they were using a drill that had a bunch less torque behind it. I generally use a 3/8" dewalt. it is a bit hard on the drill, but it is better than a sore elbow or twisted wrist.

HTH

 

In stead of drilling and cutting holes all over why not get what is call E track you just bolt it down where ever you want it and get their attachments and you just hook to them The slots in the E track are 2" apart so you have a tie down point anywhere you need it. You can get the E track in 5' , 8' ,10' and 12' lenghts it is some neat stuff.

 

Sounds like you are putting too much pressure on it to me.

 

When you drill large holes say over an 1" dia. it's a good idea to use a drill with a clutch. Saves your wrists! You can do it with that drill ya got, but ya gotta be careful as you've found out. I'm no punk I've drilled plenty of holes that way. But honestly I would just use one of my cordless drills. What's wrong with the cordless that I see in that first pic? Afraid to burn it up?

Timberwolf drills or that style anyway are the best, though I wouldn't spend that kinda money for a few holes.

 

Put that handle back on. Then you can have some leverage against it when it tries to spin you around.

Go slow, and back off occasionally. I don't know if a pilot hole would really help here. May also wanna get lower, my stance doing something like this is normally on a knee, strong arm on the handle, weak arm on the trigger, with the knee against the bottom of the drill to also help keep it from rotating.

 

I'd say lube the saw bit as well. When it heats up, it might be expanding larger than the hole it's creating. Paint might be acting like an adhesive when it warms up too.