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For those of you with a tank in the bed

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Old Jun 5, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #1  
electrifried's Avatar
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From: Columbus, Indiana
For those of you with a tank in the bed

that is gravity fed and controlled with an electric valve, Which valve did you use? Why? Would you do anything different? Why?

I have been manually opening a valve at kidney drain stops on the Duramax as you cannot leave the flow on to the frame tank due to Chevys great idea of canceling the gage circut if no movement of the needle in 75 miles. My manual valve is in the bed which is no big deal untill I had the great idea to put a shell on it. It is going to be a bit hard to reach. Time to opt for the dash mounted switch. I assume one with only two ports.

Part numbers and pictures would be a HUGE help.

Thanks for your thoughts

Mark
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 06:24 AM
  #2  
chaikwa's Avatar
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From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Originally Posted by electrifried
I assume one with only two ports. Part numbers and pictures would be a HUGE help.
Actually, I used a GM valve from a chevy truck that had 2 tanks and just capped off the extra port. The valve was readily available from NAPA and was cheap. It's worked fine for 8 to 10 years now. I DO use a pump to transfer the fuel tho instead of relying on gravity.

chaikwa.
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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From: ruidoso new mexico
we gravity feed through a 2 micron filter to the main tank with no valve, the dodge does not suffer the chevy problem
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 01:18 AM
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Originally Posted by carl48
we gravity feed through a 2 micron filter to the main tank with no valve, the dodge does not suffer the chevy problem
That's what I plan on doing too.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 09:25 AM
  #5  
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From: Brumley, MO
Originally Posted by carl48
we gravity feed through a 2 micron filter to the main tank with no valve, the dodge does not suffer the chevy problem
Dumb question here, if you gravity feed from a bed take to the factory tank without a valve, how do you keep the fuel from coming out the fill spout?
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #6  
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From: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Originally Posted by aborgardt
Dumb question here, if you gravity feed from a bed take to the factory tank without a valve, how do you keep the fuel from coming out the fill spout?
I'd like to know that secret too. With our '98, I started out that way, THEN put in the valve exactly because of the over-fill/run on the ground problem. Then, with the valve installed, it would only drain out about 1/2 the auxiliary tank, I guess because there wasn't enough head pressure to push past the valve, hence the pump.

chaikwa.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:05 AM
  #7  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I would assume you hook the "bed" tank to the filler hose of the factory tank and fill up ONLY from the bed tank. That's how I saw one setup.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 09:35 PM
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From: Brumley, MO
But then what about the tank vents????
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #9  
mmm...diesel's Avatar
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From: Tucson, AZ
Well i've got this setup. I bought a valve off of ebay, works well, was about 30 bucks. Make sure you get one that doesn't require a pressure difference to operate, like this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-4-Brass-Solenoid-Valve-NPT-Control-Air-Water-Gas-12V_W0QQitemZ120410470715QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item1c0905f93b&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240% 3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200.

I ran the line into the factory vent outlet into the tank, as I did the vent mod on my truck. With the diesel fuel caps, they don't let anything out, so overfilling isn't a problem as long as the cap is tight, actually you can leave the valve on and let it flow at all times if you want. As long as your rollover valves work you shouldn't have any leaks.

I would HIGHLY recommend a filter if you're using a steel tank (good insurance no matter what you're using), it bit me in the butt with a $700 bill from the dealer to clean out the fuel system, and I live in AZ (although I got swindled i'm certain, I haven't seen any rust anywhere in my fuel system, if you want the story PM me.)
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 01:29 AM
  #10  
Alwaysworking's Avatar
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From: Keizer, oregon
i would not gravity feed from a in bed tank. if the line for any reason gets cut or you have some other leak your fuel will be on the ground
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 02:46 AM
  #11  
1slo_MM's Avatar
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From: Duluth, MN
I have a tank in the bed. I built the tank with a pick up tube in the tank to a manual valve to an in line filter to an inline pump. The valve is for when I dont want fuel ANY fuel gravity feeding into the tank. I just put the pump on a switch in the cab. Works great!
Fyi mmm ...diesel, the cap will leak. It has happpened on my 06. Thats why I put the manual valvein the mix too..
-drew
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 03:38 AM
  #12  
Ace's Avatar
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From: Colorado
I run the bed tank completely independent of the stock tank, has it's own gauge. Both feed through the same filters and return through the same line up to a 3-way valve that splits the flow to/from one tank or the other. 2 valves, one for feed, one for return. I can empty a tank quickly or transfer between tanks by running off one while retuning to the other. Manual valves:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_183.jpg

The small valve on the left is return, large valve on the right is supply. There's a 3rd valve inside the toolbox that allows pumping out the bed tank with a Holley black mounted on the side of the toolbox directly to whatever:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CTD_67.jpg

I use that to haul/transfer kerosene for heating in the winter.
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 07:08 AM
  #13  
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by chaikwa
Actually, I used a GM valve from a chevy truck that had 2 tanks and just capped off the extra port. The valve was readily available from NAPA and was cheap. It's worked fine for 8 to 10 years now. I DO use a pump to transfer the fuel tho instead of relying on gravity.

chaikwa.
I've got this setup also. Except no pump. Works great.
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