try this www.baileysonline.com/itemDetail.asp?item=47150

 

I actually like that better. I would still use my method (marking out the whole log), then take the stick off for sectioning.

Cheaper than the spray can deal too.

 

I think I will start using my bar. I hadn't thought about that.

 

Nuther question for the loggers out there (and other knowledgeable people)

I have been reading at Oregonchain.com and they say bars and chains up to 20" will fit my saw. Husky only lists up to 16".
The way it looks to me, as long as the chain pitch matches my drive sprocket, I can use any chain and bar length I want. Granted, much longer of a bar and I wont have enough engine to spin the chain in the log.
Another question, Earlier in the thread someone mentioned a skipped tooth chain, who makes these?

 

True, you can use a longer bar than the max recommended by the maker. But.... you have to be careful not to go too long and bog the saw down. 16 to 20 is not bad. 16 to 32 would be a problem.

Keeping the chain properly sharpened is the key. A good sharp chain that has been properly sharpened will make the cutting much easier.

Lastly, think about why you NEED to go from 16 to 20 inches of cut. If it is to get through a 18 inch log, you might want to relook it. If it is to cut through 30 inches of wood - go for it. Any more - look at a bigger saw.

Hal

 

looking for a longer bar mostly as a measuring stick.
a 20" bar will give me a good 17" out of the saw.