Lawn expert or someone with knowledge
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From: Kentucky
Go here and enter your information: http://www.scotts.com/index.cfm?fuse...=annualProgram
Following this "program" will result in a great looking lawn!
Following this "program" will result in a great looking lawn!
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Joined: May 2002
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Originally posted by blackjack
go find a copy of the impatient gardner. This book is great and you will find tonics and mixtures etc.. It is actually not too expensive. I did have a little trouble with the pouring beer on the lawn part. Every time I opened a bottle it never seemed to get poured into the sprayer. By the time I got the mixture made it made the lawn look a little wavy.
anyhow it is written by Jerry Baker hes the guy that does K-Mart commercials. He also has a book on just Lawns. good luck
go find a copy of the impatient gardner. This book is great and you will find tonics and mixtures etc.. It is actually not too expensive. I did have a little trouble with the pouring beer on the lawn part. Every time I opened a bottle it never seemed to get poured into the sprayer. By the time I got the mixture made it made the lawn look a little wavy.
anyhow it is written by Jerry Baker hes the guy that does K-Mart commercials. He also has a book on just Lawns. good luck
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 402
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From: north cali
One thing to do it look at the blades of grass and see if the cut is even, if it looks fraied then your bladed on your mower are dull. another think is rent a d- thatcher and run that ower your lawn. Go to a sod place and ask for what they use ( industrial strength ) areate your lawn. LOTS OF WATER, lawns like water, don't give it the once a week 5 min crap. Mow your lawn different ways, this helps the roots, makes them stronger.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: I'll look into that!
sounds like grubs!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shovelhead
[B]brown patches in my lawn, but they are now larger than when they started treating it.
(But they will spread grass seed for an additional fee).
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shovelhead
[B]brown patches in my lawn, but they are now larger than when they started treating it.
(But they will spread grass seed for an additional fee).
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Olds,Canada
WOW, I have never seen such a vast aray of "knowledge".
I have been a golf course Superintendent for 12 years and have built and grown in several courses, also instruct turfgrass management courses at a local college.
Here are some basicTips
1. Your lawn needs an inch of water a week, best if done in one watering to moisten the whole root zone, however do not over water this is as detrimental as underwatering. A cheap soil moisture meter might save you alot of water.
2. Never cut more than 1/3 of the plant of when mowing, mow regulary, the turf will then not be subjected to harsh cutting.
3. On a bag of fertilizer there are three numbers 1st Nitrogen - activates growth gives turf the colour, 2nd phosphorus - helps establish and maintain root systems use higher amounts in the spring, 3rd Potassium - Helps plant deals with stresses use higher amounts in the late summer and early fall, ie drought disease etc.
4. Do cultural practices (aerating, thatch removal) when the grass is actively growing so it can recover I see lots of people doing this when things are dormant, it leaves the plant wide open to stresses.
5. If your lawn is healthy it will take care of weeds by out competing them, however a intial application of a herbicide may be needed if out of control, try to stay away from granular they tend to stick to kids dogs etc, sprayables will stick to the plant leaving only a smell for a day or two, Pesticides are very safe when applied properly!, salt is more deadly pound for pound that most pesticides.
6. Soil tests will only help if you, if you know all the input variables - now this may get a little complicated. If your lawn seems to be slow to react to nutrition your soils abilty to tie up nutrients may be high (cation exchange capacity) the soil test will show high amounts of needed macro nutrients N-P-K. however if the soils are tied up the plant cannot absorb them, this could be a sodium induced problems or a bicarbonate problem that could be compounding from the water source. in essence don't put all your marbels on the soil test, besides most soil tests are done to agricultural applications and not to turfgrass areas.
7. The easiest way to good turf for the average joe is to invest in a good spreader from a company that carries fertilizer. The bag will be marked for a proper calibrated application on the back. Usually will be a full rate or half rate use the half rate and apply at 90 degree angles for a better application.
8. most turf stands will react well to height of cuts between 2 1/2 -3 1/2", regular sharpening of a blade is a good practice
9.If damage occurs rough up the grass to get to the soil, make small holes with a pitch fork or comparable, spread desired seed, topdress with dirt or mulch and keep moist.
10. excessive fertilty is as bad as excessive watering
hope that helps, if I didn't put anybody to sleep
I have been a golf course Superintendent for 12 years and have built and grown in several courses, also instruct turfgrass management courses at a local college.
Here are some basicTips
1. Your lawn needs an inch of water a week, best if done in one watering to moisten the whole root zone, however do not over water this is as detrimental as underwatering. A cheap soil moisture meter might save you alot of water.
2. Never cut more than 1/3 of the plant of when mowing, mow regulary, the turf will then not be subjected to harsh cutting.
3. On a bag of fertilizer there are three numbers 1st Nitrogen - activates growth gives turf the colour, 2nd phosphorus - helps establish and maintain root systems use higher amounts in the spring, 3rd Potassium - Helps plant deals with stresses use higher amounts in the late summer and early fall, ie drought disease etc.
4. Do cultural practices (aerating, thatch removal) when the grass is actively growing so it can recover I see lots of people doing this when things are dormant, it leaves the plant wide open to stresses.
5. If your lawn is healthy it will take care of weeds by out competing them, however a intial application of a herbicide may be needed if out of control, try to stay away from granular they tend to stick to kids dogs etc, sprayables will stick to the plant leaving only a smell for a day or two, Pesticides are very safe when applied properly!, salt is more deadly pound for pound that most pesticides.
6. Soil tests will only help if you, if you know all the input variables - now this may get a little complicated. If your lawn seems to be slow to react to nutrition your soils abilty to tie up nutrients may be high (cation exchange capacity) the soil test will show high amounts of needed macro nutrients N-P-K. however if the soils are tied up the plant cannot absorb them, this could be a sodium induced problems or a bicarbonate problem that could be compounding from the water source. in essence don't put all your marbels on the soil test, besides most soil tests are done to agricultural applications and not to turfgrass areas.
7. The easiest way to good turf for the average joe is to invest in a good spreader from a company that carries fertilizer. The bag will be marked for a proper calibrated application on the back. Usually will be a full rate or half rate use the half rate and apply at 90 degree angles for a better application.
8. most turf stands will react well to height of cuts between 2 1/2 -3 1/2", regular sharpening of a blade is a good practice
9.If damage occurs rough up the grass to get to the soil, make small holes with a pitch fork or comparable, spread desired seed, topdress with dirt or mulch and keep moist.
10. excessive fertilty is as bad as excessive watering
hope that helps, if I didn't put anybody to sleep
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