This is my friend's exhaust housing. Can it be saved?
It is off a Volvo and made by Garrett, that's all I know about it's origins.
The wheels had no sign of rubbing, virtualy no side to side play, with negligible play in and out.
The only other problem compressor side appered to be leaking oil.







It was suggested to me that he could braze it. But will that hold up to the high heat of a suped up gasser?
(It will be going on a '96 ferd escort with a 1.8)

 

We braze parts together where I work and you're talking about some temperatures really close to the red range on my pyrometer during a truck pull. Not sure about the exhaust temps on your gasser, but if they're anywhere close, I would have concerns about it holding together.

Here's an option as well:
http://www.locknstitch.com/CastIronWelding.htm

 

Use what is knowen as ni rod. It is specifically for cast. You run it off of a DC electric welder. Make small passes not very long have an air hose handy to blow on it and keep it cool or it could crack if it gets to hot and cools to quick. Also peening it is some thing to do between passes.

 

Brazing on parts that get very hot (ie exhaust systems) could result in more cracking in time as the brazing hardens and gets brittle due to the heat and expansion and contraction. Using the correct rod plus peening as already mentioned will be much better. The peening works better if it is started while the weld is still red.

 

OK, since no one did it I will---Why

 

My Thought Exzactly, Who Turbo's a Ford Escort?????

 

He's mad that my brick wall on wheels can beat him in the quarter mile.

 

no sence of humor

 

Thanks for all the good info guys.
That was some good reading in that link satburn.

What is peening and how would I do it?

 

Peening is lite tapping on the weld with a small hammer. Or if you have a air chipper you can use that. This will help relieve the stress that builds in the weld and the parent metal.