best foundation for little aluminum shed? anchor?
#1
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best foundation for little aluminum shed? anchor?
I got a 10x12 Arrow shed from Sears.
http://www.sheds.com/arlington.htm
Model# AR1012
Size: 10'x 12'
Storage Area: Sq Ft: 115' Cu Ft: 686'
Interior Dimensions: Width: 118 1/4" Depth: 140 1/2" Ht: 80 1/8"
Wall Height: 62"
Door Opening: Width: 55 1/2" Height: 60"
Recommended Foundation Size: Width: 121" Depth: 143 1/4"
Shipping Wt (lbs): 270
got the floor kit too, which is basically a frame to lay plywood on:
http://www.sheds.com/miva/merchant.m...99_FDN10111213
here's the deal:
i want it to last as long as it as needed.
but i don't want to put down something totally permanent (concrete pad) that would make it impossible to put in a large shop, or take down & put in a garden.
don't really expect to be here but a few years, but i want the shed to last as long as it's needed
http://www.sheds.com/awarranties.htm
12-YEAR WARRANTY
All Arrow storage buildings with Electro-Galvanized Steel, or Woodgrain finishes are backed by a 12-year Limited Warranty.
http://www.sheds.com/arlington.htm
Model# AR1012
Size: 10'x 12'
Storage Area: Sq Ft: 115' Cu Ft: 686'
Interior Dimensions: Width: 118 1/4" Depth: 140 1/2" Ht: 80 1/8"
Wall Height: 62"
Door Opening: Width: 55 1/2" Height: 60"
Recommended Foundation Size: Width: 121" Depth: 143 1/4"
Shipping Wt (lbs): 270
got the floor kit too, which is basically a frame to lay plywood on:
http://www.sheds.com/miva/merchant.m...99_FDN10111213
here's the deal:
i want it to last as long as it as needed.
but i don't want to put down something totally permanent (concrete pad) that would make it impossible to put in a large shop, or take down & put in a garden.
don't really expect to be here but a few years, but i want the shed to last as long as it's needed
http://www.sheds.com/awarranties.htm
12-YEAR WARRANTY
All Arrow storage buildings with Electro-Galvanized Steel, or Woodgrain finishes are backed by a 12-year Limited Warranty.
#2
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I've seen this method more than a few times.
Take pressure treated lumbar and use that as borders for 3/4" crushed stone. Then lay out your shed platform. It is considered "temporary" because of its building contents. I know these sheds I've have mentioned are still standing and can be readily broken down and removed or moved.
Take pressure treated lumbar and use that as borders for 3/4" crushed stone. Then lay out your shed platform. It is considered "temporary" because of its building contents. I know these sheds I've have mentioned are still standing and can be readily broken down and removed or moved.
#3
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Last shed I put up like that I set it on cinder blocks and cemented posts in the holes of the cinder blocks. the weight keeps it from moving around, but upon removal, you just have cinder blocks filled with cement to deal with.
#5
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I have that same shed. I used concretete patio blocks spaced evenly under the alu. frame. I also use the weight of all the ju...er stuff in it to hold it down.
#6
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did you put them just under the intersections of the floor frame, and along the wall, or completely under it?
and patio block may be cheaper than a 10x12 pad of crushed stone.
and you could even move it around the yard if you got ornery,
where the crushed stone would be a back breaker to move.
how far off the ground does it need to be?
the instructions say to lay down a vapor barrier (a sheet of plastic, how thick?).
should i put the plastic down, then the patio blocks, and the frame/floor,
or patio blokcs on ground, plastic sheet on top of blocks, and frame/floor over plastic?
#7
Registered User
that is what i was thinking, level it out, get it up off the ground,
did you put them just under the intersections of the floor frame, and along the wall, or completely under it?
and patio block may be cheaper than a 10x12 pad of crushed stone.
and you could even move it around the yard if you got ornery,
where the crushed stone would be a back breaker to move.
how far off the ground does it need to be?
the instructions say to lay down a vapor barrier (a sheet of plastic, how thick?).
should i put the plastic down, then the patio blocks, and the frame/floor,
or patio blokcs on ground, plastic sheet on top of blocks, and frame/floor over plastic?
did you put them just under the intersections of the floor frame, and along the wall, or completely under it?
and patio block may be cheaper than a 10x12 pad of crushed stone.
and you could even move it around the yard if you got ornery,
where the crushed stone would be a back breaker to move.
how far off the ground does it need to be?
the instructions say to lay down a vapor barrier (a sheet of plastic, how thick?).
should i put the plastic down, then the patio blocks, and the frame/floor,
or patio blokcs on ground, plastic sheet on top of blocks, and frame/floor over plastic?
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#8
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opinion of the woman- now THAT got you listening fer sure , yeah right...
non permanent but protective and secure.
dow insulation board panels (2) for that size shed, on ground
flattest and widest patio block of your choice on top of insulation, at perimeter supports (corners, side, and center) set da building up! no hurt to lawn or ground when done years later. inside stuff moisture protected and bug proof. no condensation inside building at all.
then, knowing you- get some government stuff, dig secret entrance under shed, concrete bomb proof shelter with vacuum assist stainless steel blast doors, musuem quality temperature control, fresh air scrubber, nice stereo, bluetooth, DTR wide screen, woman alert, maybe a little bbq service panel for snacks, cold liquids dispenser of choice.....all for 113.00 dollars cause I know better you bright smiling, intellectual of the South.
dow insulation board panels (2) for that size shed, on ground
flattest and widest patio block of your choice on top of insulation, at perimeter supports (corners, side, and center) set da building up! no hurt to lawn or ground when done years later. inside stuff moisture protected and bug proof. no condensation inside building at all.
then, knowing you- get some government stuff, dig secret entrance under shed, concrete bomb proof shelter with vacuum assist stainless steel blast doors, musuem quality temperature control, fresh air scrubber, nice stereo, bluetooth, DTR wide screen, woman alert, maybe a little bbq service panel for snacks, cold liquids dispenser of choice.....all for 113.00 dollars cause I know better you bright smiling, intellectual of the South.
#9
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#10
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well, i could not think of a way to get them cheap.
and i can NOT be trusted alone at Home Depot.
the sheets were $12.75 each,
stones were $1.57 each.
but i spent ALOT more than that. "stuff i just needed" yikes.
and i can NOT be trusted alone at Home Depot.
the sheets were $12.75 each,
stones were $1.57 each.
but i spent ALOT more than that. "stuff i just needed" yikes.
#12
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yeah BUT
you live in the frozen North where the wood is just petrified anyways
South Carolina decides that sand , water, bugs and rain must destroy anything made of wood and tin. and this is a Navy man.....nothing short of 800 tons of steel for support.
hehe j/k don't throw your back out....
South Carolina decides that sand , water, bugs and rain must destroy anything made of wood and tin. and this is a Navy man.....nothing short of 800 tons of steel for support.
hehe j/k don't throw your back out....
#13
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Thread Starter
nobody noticed i got 3 sheets of 4x8 to do a 10x12 shed?
JWBM said, "you will need 2, or maybe 3" so that's what i got.
i was more worried about it being the right stuff, than doing the math.
dangit.
i thought you guys had my back..?
it will cost me a $100 in "stuff" to go get another $12 sheet....
JWBM said, "you will need 2, or maybe 3" so that's what i got.
i was more worried about it being the right stuff, than doing the math.
dangit.
i thought you guys had my back..?
it will cost me a $100 in "stuff" to go get another $12 sheet....
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