I hope to be there...

 

Stephenville has motels, not sure about camping set up around DeLeon though. xOMERTx should have a good idea of the setup around there.

 

Well I think I've narrowed the clicking down to the front left wheel... Clicking intensifies when I turn right... What's ur bet? bearings or u joint?? Man the $$ just keeps flyin away!! Plan on getting the truck on stands and see if I can 'wiggle and jiggle' the wheel around or see if there is play in the shaft...

 

Did you try getting a four wheels off the ground to try to isolate the "clicking"?

 

Could be either one, but sounds like bearings. Past searches I've done show U-Joints often needing attention around 100,000 miles and wheel bearings being replaced a lot between 125,000 - 150,000 miles.

Probably mentioned I just did my wheel bearing assembly on both sides (130k). 100,000 - 150,000 miles seems to be a high maintenance period on CTD's.... getting them set up for the next 150-200,000 miles. Logical, when you think about it...just does not usually include a
'head job', performance valve springs and a SB DD Clutch!

Worth every penny..... IMO, you've got yourself one of the nicest 2nd gen's in the country!

RJ

 

ya better planning next time!! this is killing me!... not complaining just the way things work out!

what will unit bearings run me... dang dodge, upgradable servicable units available? might as well replace ujoints while the axles are out again?? part numbers? spicer joints?? hmm bet a good portion of this will be sitting on the cc for a while!! never paid a dime of interest in my life, may change shortly! lol :@

 

Looking at the sevice manual it doesn't look to crazy difficult to replace the hub by myself other than having to press the studs out of the old and into the new... No press.. (Should I replace the studs with new anyways?)...

So I guess I could just suck it up and have somebody else do work on my baby again, just cause I'm really not equipped to work on it here at school..

I'm still not even sure that the bearing is the culprit... Jacked the truck up and cant feel any play in the bearing, cant feel any play in the u-joint... cant replicate the sound with the truck on stands... Ug frustrating... If I go out and have the u-joints and bearings replaced and still have a click I'll be ticked..

Most of what I read when there is a bearing failure is a howl not really a click like I am hearing... leads me to think more u-joint than bearing, but in order for the u-joint to be replaced the whole knuckle has to come off...... Ahh I need advise! Help!

Please excuse the ramble... Thinking out loud...

 

My bearing failure was a rubbing.... scraping noise, only in hard turns!
Advise - let it go for a bit.... just till you can tell, for sure!

RJ

 

And that is what I would expect for a bearing... Mine is a definite click.... no rubbing or scraping whatsoever.... I hate that I can't replicate with the truck jacked up...

More info:
clicks coasting, accel, decel, constant speed.
I can only hear at lower speeds say under 25-30, most likely due to road/tire/engine noise
Intensifies turning right
Least amount of clicking silight turn to left (I think)

 

Doesn't that point to a bearing? (the left side) No noise with no load on it! More noise in right turn.

I have had bad bearings (not on a CTD) that clicked! It's a gouge or rough spot catching on the race, I believe. Will get louder if that's it. Just my guess.

RJ

 

That's why I'm leaning towards left wheel, but when I replace stuff I will do both sides.. Never had bearings that clicked.. But the load on the vehicle is what I was thinking as well... No load on the u-joints as long and not in 4x4 so it would not make sense for them to click on the road and not on stands correct?

 

OOO ooo another q? are the u-joints on the axle small enough to fit through the knuckle or does the whole knuckle have to come off again?? I think it looks like it will fit? no?

I could maybe save some $$ If I pulled the axle and unit bearing out myself and brought it to a local shop and have them replace u joint and press in new studs for me?? an idea at least... Only special tool I think I need is an 1 1/16" socket and large breaker bar.... Correct me please if I am mistaken...

 

OK....remember how i told you how to pull the Bearing assembly with the joint.....just do it the hard way and pull the axle nut off and pull the axle out of the bearing assembly. Its not hard...but those axle nuts.......i have had to use 10' cheaters to get them to crack loose...with someone standing on the brakes, truck in 4wd and tires on the gnd......BUT that was an old 12V. I would assume yours will be not as bad.

The bearings are an assembly and not repairable........and for the most part you hear a gron or moan. AND when sawing the wheel back and forth, they noise will get louder and softer in relation to which way the truck loads the wheel.

I am on your side with the clicking being in the Axle Knuckle joint....(YOU SHOULD HAVE CHECKED THEM WHEN YOU HAD THEM OUT LAST TIME!!!!!!) Usually a bad bearing will not click....unless something weird just happens like Rowlands said.

BUT also...just keep in mind that you were just in your fnt end working on it.....could have something loose.....Center caps of the wheels will make a clicking noise...mind do. UM.....lug nuts....are they tight and all there? I have had a wheel back off and right before i heard a clicking noise....and thought to myself..."that sounds weird??". Check the fnt rotor to make sure its not hitting on the dust shield....Upper ball joint nut is tight and not hitting on the Axle Knuckle joint......

 

Clicking noise was there before ball joint work... getting louder now.. I checked the u-joints and could not detect any play... But that doesn't mean they are not bad... Just rotated the tire and checked all the dust shields etc... nothing rubbing smooth as can be.. Lug nuts tight..

If I can get the dang axle nut loose think it is an ok job for me to pull out myself while at school and take somewhere (where?) to have new ujoints put in and new studs pressed in the new unit hub? Just going to do it all... Or will I run into something and wish I would have just takin it somewhere... Tools are somewhat limited at school, but i do have a lot of things here...


Maybe break the axle nuts loose with the truck on the ground?
AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake caliper and rotor. Refer to
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Remove ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped.
Refer to Brakes for procedures.
(5) Remove the cotter pin and axle hub nut.
(6) Remove hub bearing bolts (Fig. 22) and remove
hub bearing from the steering knuckle.
(7) Remove brake dust shield from knuckle.
(8) Remove axle shaft from the housing. Avoid
damaging the axle shaft oil seal.

 

im glad mine is still a baby!!!!