i have a 2003 3500 24 valve wont start. i can bomb start it then start it with key a couple of hours later but if it sits to long then it wont start. cant figure it out need help have check almost everything that we can think off

 

I dont know anything but until those who do chime in, try using "advanced search". Type "hard start" or other key words. Here are a couple of prior posts for starters
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=hard+start
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=hard+start

Also, have you checked for codes? If not here is the link on how to do it.
http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/...uster_Overview

 

Can you see your grid heater cycling on the volt meter? Is the wait to start light/system working? Can you pull the connectors off the grid heater and see if there is continuity?

Just a start no pun

 

i have tested the air intake heaters and have 12 volts on both. had both batteries tested today and the are good. just change fuel filter a month ago. dont have a air lock in system. truck only has 130,000 km on it. swaped out fuel heater relay. truck has been plugged in block heater works well can feel heat at top off engine.

 

Do you have any codes?

 

had a friend put his scanner on it and nothing came up for codes

 

Check the simple stuff first. Make sure the batt connections are clean and tight. Plenty of water in the batts if not maint free? If it still won't turn over, check the connection @ the starter.

 

everything is clean and tight on battery . cranks over just wont fire

 

fuel?
I'm not sure if you can do this on the HPCR but can you open one or more of the injector lines? These lines are high pressure so I'd see if this is an option before doing. You only need fuel and compression for a diesel to run....something else is going on.

 

what do you mean "bomb start"?
maybe bad injectors???

 

pay attention to this guy

"I had the same no start on my 2003, needed to use ether to start it.

I had this issue twice in the last 3 years. First was 2 Octobers ago and I thought it was related to the colder weather. Used ether to start it until I finally broke down and brought it to a local dealer referred by my mechanic friend. There was a TSB which also included a symptom of a Slow Fuel Gauge & Hard Start. The dealer reflashed the ECM with an updated version. Truck started right up at the dealer and I drove it fine until the following Oct '09. It started not starting again, nursed it with ether (I know.... very bad), performed all the fuel volume tests but neglected the injector isolation test until the end. Finally I purchased the Injector Block Off Cap Tool and started at # 6 cyl and blocked off each cyclinder one at a time (no help) until I got to #2 Injector. Once I blocked #2 off bamm it started right up. I put in a rebuilt #2 2 Injector ($415) and new connector tube ($25) in about 30 mins work and it has now started up great for almost a month or so. Basically the problem Injector pressure relief check valve was probably stuck open allowing the Rail Pressure to drop too far below spec (approx 500#) for the Injectors to fire (approx 5000#). Capping off each Injector one at a time isolates a leaking Injector and the truck will start on 5 cyls."