No.
The guy is giving you the wrong number if there is a different left and right side part number. You'll get everything apart and it won't fit.
As long as the bearing comes off the axle shaft easily the job will take about two hours per side. If you have trouble getting the bearing off it could take much longer.
Take care not to pull the axle shaft out while doing the job and support the axle with rags to keep it centered while the bearing is off. If you don't the seal will deform and leak. Most seals repair themselves but it could take many miles.

 

So I really don't have to pull my axle shafts out? When every I have worked with them I just pulled them out because it was easier that way. If I remember right, don't you have to pull the shafts out to get the hub assembly off?

 

Uh, no, don't pull the shafts. There are inner seals in the axle tube that could be damaged, which would cause fluid leaks. At least, that's what I've been told by someone with about 40 years of mechanical experience.

If you start to pull the hub assembly off, and the axle shaft wants to come out with it, lightly tap it with a heavy hammer or a mini sledge. It will pop the shaft back out of the assembly. Just don't pull it too far out ... no more than maybe 1/2 inch.

I found a page that said that light-duty 2500s had Dana 44s. I think most 2500s, though, came with 60s under them.

 

if you have abs, shouldnt there be an electrical sensor wire running down to the abs sensor? well, just a thought. 3/4 tons did not use a dana 44 - the 60 is the only option in the front on 3/4 and 1 tons to the best of my knowledge. i replaced my 97's front unitized bearings for the first time about 2 years ago. then again about 1 year ago. i used napa parts which i will no longer do because i dont need to do this every year (the factory ones lasted 85,000 - the napas should at least give a year ). it ran me about 200/side (non-abs) and i did not need a press. make sure that the studs do not have that little paper thin keeper washer screwed onto them cause that will stop the studs from moving. when my bearings went bad, i was able to detect it by having the front wheels slightly jacked up off of the ground and lifting up on the bottom of the tire with a long pry bar.

 

This is where I got the information that some 2500s came with 44s under the front .... http://www.allpar.com/model/ram/faq.html ... section 4.6 states:

Dana 44-F

Application: 1500 and 2500 4x4 Regular Cab, 1500 4x4 Club Cab (with
NV231HD an NV241 transfer case)


My bad for not reading farmer dave's full sig ... he's got the quad cab, so yeah, he's got a Dana 60.

 

OK Dave, it took me about 3 hours the first side I did it, and about 1/2 hour the second side. then I tore ti all apart again, and did it in about 15 minutes pers ide. It gets easier and easier each time.

Here is what I did (Dana 60)
1. Take off the tires
2. Take off cotter pin holding the nut in the hub
3. Remove Caliper
4. Unbolt 4 bolts inside steering knuckle (VERY IMPORTANT) They are 9/16 - 12 pt
5. Remove hub nut
5. Pull rotor and hub assembly off as one unit
6. Pound out studs from the rotor
7. Place NEW rotor on NEW hub
8. Pound studs back in
9. Reinstall everything

I say to get new rotors and hubs because Ideally youw ant to run new stuff. You can get yours turned as well. The hub has to be balanced on the rotor, oterwise it will throw the wheel into some funky vibrations.


Dima

 

Flatty, one important step you left out is coating the axle shaft with anti-seize so that bearing comes off easy next time.

 

Thanks for all of the advise. I order some off the internet yesterday. They were from the website and they are Timkens. Should be good parts and shipping was free.

 

Might want to do a search Farmer on the socket/u joint trick on getting those bearings out of the knuckle,I have had one done on my truck on the road and the guy worked up a hell of a sweat trying to get it out.I am sure a few other members have read about the socket trick,just do a search and Im sure you will find it.Have a full can of good penatrating oil and soak the hell out of them.Good Luck

 

Farmer where did you order them?

 

Mcmopar,
Yeah, I ordered them. I just got them yesterday. They are Timken bearings, so they are good quality. One hub assembly came with the studs in it and the other didn't. They were both the same price though, about $275 with free shipping. There were different numbers for the right and left side, but from what I can tell they are both the same.

Dresser Dave,
Weird name! Yeah I know about the socket trick. I haven't done a search about it yet, but I plan to look into it before going out to do the job. I have taken the wheel bearings off before on my old truck so I know how involved they are. I hope that it goes well, but I have dealt with them takening a while.

I will keep everyone updated on the progress and how it goes.
Dave