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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 01:03 PM
  #16  
infidel's Avatar
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From: Montana
I think the rotors will last the life of these trucks just as long as you don't turn them, overheat or let pads wear down to the metal. I know plenty of people with 300k+ who are still on the the stock rotors, never turned.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 01:38 PM
  #17  
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From: INWOOD, West 'BY GOD' Virginia
when I have to change out a stud I just put an open lug nut on flush with the stud and bang with a small sledge. (hit it straight) pops right out. When I put one in I use 1/2" breaker bar and large washer under lug nut. Never had a problem.

Just my .02

Michael
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
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I tried the lug method of putting the studs in ... couldn't get the things to seat all the way back down. It's worked on every other vehicle I've ver tried it on, but my truck has a "reputation" for being "stubborn."

Since I bought my truck used, I inherited all the previous owner's problems. Such problems are usually caused by abuse or lack of care. My truck had mismatched rotors up front ... the driver's side had the light duty rotor, the passenger side had the heavy duty rotor. I checked the tag on the door jam, and it indicates that my truck is rated at 8800 pounds GVW. So, I got two new rotors for an 8800 pound vehicle. I've noticed that the pads wear out pretty quickly, especially on the driver's side. The rear brakes have been replaced and adjusted properly.

The passenger side hub/bearing assembly wore out, so, to save time and effort, not to mention a headache or two, I just replaced both sides, hubs and rotors. I made sure to clear the rust off the studs before reseating them in the new hub/rotor assemblies. Tried the lug nut approach, but got no joy. Used a press, and had no problems.

I've had to replace the front brake pads about every 6 months or so since I bought the truck two years ago. I went with the high-dollar carbon metallic pads this time. I'm hoping to get more than just 6 months worth of use out of them.

At any rate, I hope all this discussion will help out the originator of this thread in some small way.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 10:51 PM
  #19  
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So where have most of you bought your hub assemblies from? And how much did they cost?
Another question, are you guys talking about reusing just the wheel stud nuts? Or are you reusing the rotors also?
Thanks, Dave
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 07:33 AM
  #20  
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I got my hubs from NAPA, the cost varies from about 200 to 400 each side. The non-ABS are cheaper. I put new rotors on each time, due to upgrades to slotted rotors. You need to check yours for warping, if they arn't warped-reuse them. You can reuse the studs and wheel nuts.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #21  
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Originally posted by farmer dave
So where have most of you bought your hub assemblies from? And how much did they cost?
Another question, are you guys talking about reusing just the wheel stud nuts? Or are you reusing the rotors also?
Thanks, Dave
I got my hubs from Advance Auto Parts. See one of my previous posts near the start of this thread for part numbers and prices. Generally, they run about $200 each for non-ABS. I don't know what they run for ABS.

As Mcmopar said, if the rotors aren't warped, re-use 'em. The wheel studs and lugs are re-useable as long as the threads aren't messed up, and the studs aren't bent.
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Old Jan 10, 2005 | 07:34 PM
  #22  
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Well I finally went out and tried to find a wheel bearing. The left side is around $200, but the right side is $320. I am not sure what side I really need. I think that it is the left side but can't pin down the noise. When ever I jack it up the sound goes away. The truck has 110k on it. Should I just do both sides?
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Old Jan 10, 2005 | 07:47 PM
  #23  
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Might as well, if you can afford it.

I got lucky when my S10 Blazer needed hubs. I brought it in to the dealer locally (a good dealer, that negotiated the same price to do the job as Les Schwab. Amazing!) and asked them to just replace the drivers side hub. After I picked it up, I got a couple miles away, and there was the grinding noise again. Brought it back, and oops they had done the wrong side. The put it right back in the shop and did the drivers side, no extra charge, and left the new passenger side one in there. 2 for the price of 1!

The Dodge is need of some new front wheel bearings too, but this time it won't be nearly as traumatic or expensive, as it's just 2wd.
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Old Jan 10, 2005 | 08:39 PM
  #24  
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What about switching to a manual hub like Warn etc.


Anyone have any advice?
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Old Jan 10, 2005 | 11:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally posted by farmer dave
Well I finally went out and tried to find a wheel bearing. The left side is around $200, but the right side is $320. I am not sure what side I really need. I think that it is the left side but can't pin down the noise. When ever I jack it up the sound goes away. The truck has 110k on it. Should I just do both sides?
That doesn't sound right. Both sides should cost the same. You might want to look into that again.

Originally posted by tool
What about switching to a manual hub like Warn etc.


Anyone have any advice?
I'm sure you could install the manual hubs, but I'm not sure what you would need to do to remove the automatic setup. IMHO, if ain't broke, don't fix it ... I'd stick with the automatic hubs. I got tire of getting out and stepping into slop up to my kness when I had to lock in manual hubs on my Toyota. Automatic hubs are just fine by me!
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 09:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally posted by farmer dave
Well I finally went out and tried to find a wheel bearing. The left side is around $200, but the right side is $320. I am not sure what side I really need. I think that it is the left side but can't pin down the noise. When ever I jack it up the sound goes away. The truck has 110k on it. Should I just do both sides?
I wouldn't trust either price, someone got the wrong numbers as both sides are the same.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #27  
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He was trying to tell me that it was because of the ABS. I told him that I did not have front wheel ABS. He had no answer then.
Should I just order two of the left side since they both should be the same? I am going to check around a little more, but this is the only place that had them so far. Doesn't look to promising at finding another place with them. I stopped at NAPA and they said that they only had listing up to a 99.
Thanks for the help and ideas.
Dave
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:37 AM
  #28  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Originally posted by farmer dave
He was trying to tell me that it was because of the ABS. I told him that I did not have front wheel ABS. He had no answer then.
Should I just order two of the left side since they both should be the same? I am going to check around a little more, but this is the only place that had them so far. Doesn't look to promising at finding another place with them. I stopped at NAPA and they said that they only had listing up to a 99.
Thanks for the help and ideas.
Dave
Yeah, if you don't have front ABS, then the price should be right around $200. If I'm not mistaken, the 2001 2500 4x4 still used a solid front axle, which was probably a Dana/Spicer 60. It could be a lighter Dana/Spicer 44. Did you check the tag (either engine compartment or door sill) to see what you have? If so, post it to let us know. The more info, the better.

Also, if it is a 44 or 60, you might be able to use the hubs/bearings from earlier models. Cross reference the specs/part numbers from, say, a 1997 or 1998 with the part number they gave you for the left hub/bearing assembly. If they're the same, you're good to go.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 03:15 PM
  #29  
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Dave you can get both sides at the same price of 180 for non ABS at www.discountautoparts.com You will have to wait a few days to get them, but at that price, I waited a week. Do BOTH sides now. If one side is going out, the other will be going out soon as well. I just did both of mine about 1000 miles back.

The bearings are Timken bearings too..

Dima
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #30  
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My truck has a dana 60 in the front. I don't think that they put dana 44 in any 3/4 truck, but I could be mistaken. I was also thinking about doing them both, but at the quoted price I really didn't want to.

Flatty,
About how long did it take to do both sides? Just curious is I could do it in a night or if it would take the whole day.

Dave
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