Ok ive been trying to get the hub off my truck all day long and finally have given up. i couldn't even get the rotor off. i made my own puller out of c channel an i welded a nut to it and used a bolt to try and pry it off the axle shaft no luck she moved a little bit but not much it is starting to bend the c channel pretty bad it is 1/4 inch thick!!!! i did everything i could possibly think of except heat it to the max. i did heat it but not that much. my buddies 95 came off this hard but he needed rotors so he beat them off i cannot get it to move what so ever. the best part is i just bought the truck and have about 600 miles on it only 60000 on the truck

Also on a nother note how do you get the u joints in the front because once i get the hubs out i will do the ujoints as well. i will also be investing in some more anti seize and i am gonna load them to the max. thanks guys

 

Go ahead and soak it real good with penetrating fluid.
I'm sure you did but you did take the bolts out of the wheel bearing on the ujoint side.
You can also back out one of the bolts, put a socket and extension, then use the power steering and turn the wheel to use the steering as kind of a press. Be careful doing this, parts can fly. Or just a big hammer on the bolts, but this usually ruins the bolts.

 

tried it scotts i made the puller i might try and do both of them i used the power steering but no budge. so let me get this straight again i should only thread the bolts in a little way and then put the socket and extension on the bolts on the u joint side turn till the wheel gets tight and keep trying. I did it but taht was before i got it to budge with the puller. what a disaster!!!!!!

what about u joints are they hard to replace?

 

Hey Buddy...
I know you are struggling and I wish I could help you out,but the best advice I can give you is LOOK very carefully at what you are doing.
I mean really examine the engineering and look and understand how the piece is put together. It is after you do this, you can procced with a plan that usually works.
Sometimes you may need the "flame wrench" (Cutting torch)
Remember....Look at what you are doing and really look closely.
A lot of times people screw things up worse when something simple is overlooked...
Good luck.
GCSS

 

for the real tight ones, or hard to get off, use a chisel, between the bearing and the spindle(knuckel)
you will wreck the backing plate some what, but it can be fixed after.
it will come with a chisel, but it will take a good 5 minute or more of beating with a big hammer, i use a 4lb.

 

I recently had a rear wheel bearing go bad on me, I was going 75 mph and heard and felt something wasn't right.
I pulled over and good thing I did.... Had I continued even another 1/4 mile,I bet the whole axle would have galled and broke off.The bearing had gotten so hot I couldn't touch the hub.
I had the truck trailered home and I needed to torch the bearing race off the axle shaft. I wound up cutting into the axle tube and had to wire-weld the hole and file it flat again. It was no big deal since the race is what the bearing rollers ride on and not the axle housing.
This would have freaked out most guys but was no biggie.
We are back on the road again!!!!

 

Luckily i have access to a 10# slide hammer. But i had one that the slide hammer couldn't get off. Ended up using the chisle/ steel wedge and big hammer to get off. It did destroy the rotor and hub, but the knuckle just need some dressing up.
Ujoints aren't too hard, but the down fall is usually the axle seals start leaking too. And they are not fun to replace either.
Check your ball joints while you got every thing apart. And use lots of anti seize going back together.

 

Infidel's trick for getting that hub unit off is just to stick a socket extension behind one of the knuckle bolts with the nut on loose and use the power steering to press the hub out.
I ruined a perfectly good hub once, and also went through the same grief trying to get the other bad side off. No fun.

 

Don't use a chisel!! Back the four hub bolts out so the ends of them are flush with hubs. Use a socket with extension. Let it butt up against frame. Start truck and use power steering to do the work. My brother turned the wheel while I moved the socket/extension around from bolt to bolt. A little pressure on one bolt then move to the next. Works like a champ! No sweat and no chisels!

 

The power steering press has never failed me> https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&postcount=10

 

The other trick that will get them when nothing else will is to put the bolts in about one turn loose, put the truck back together and get it up to about 25 mph then nail the brakes and cut the wheel hard at the same time. Do that a couple times and it will pop loose. When you feel it pop, drive gently back to the shop and disassemble.

 

i got them off today guys using my homemade puller and the powersteering trick. the ps trick alone would not do it but with the puller it came off mint. i will post some pics of on here this week sometime

Now how do you get the ujoints off? do you pull the c clips from the inside and then just press them out with a vise? or do you need an actual press i have used the vise many a times on u joints.

thanks for the reply

 

U-joints are no problem. Just knock off clips. Then find a socket slightly smaller than cup size and a socket slightly larger than cup size. Use a table vise. Place the small socket on one cap and the open end of the larger socket on the opposite cap. When tightened in a vise, small socket pushes opposite end cap into larger socket.

 

good deal will try this thanks guys

 

still struggling as my ujoints will not come out easily at all. i have jthem in a vise and am pressing the ********** out of them. heat penetrating didnt work so i got out my favorite tool the grinder with a cut off wheel and the first u joint came out. i will post pics when i ge tthe thing done to show you the carnage of the rust!!!!!