What next???
What next???
I posted a week back after putting gas in the ol' diesel truck (2006 2500 5.9l) I finally got it to run last night, but it wont idle. It sounds good, not smoking alot, like I expected. I only ran it a few minutes, before I had to stop and rush off to work. How much more should I run it without it idling on its own?and where should I look next for other causes?
What did they end up doing, and what shop in their right mind would give you back a truck that won't idle?
Or did you not end up taking it to a mechanic?
I can't remember, do you have a fuel rail pressure gauge? Also, are there any codes stored?
Or did you not end up taking it to a mechanic?
I can't remember, do you have a fuel rail pressure gauge? Also, are there any codes stored?
I got the $3000 bill for the two pumps and labor they wanted to do, and opted to tow it back to my place so I could work through it. They diagnosed it and said the lift and injector pumps were bad. They didnt get an oppurtunity to work on it before I paid them for their time and I got it back. I do not have a pressure guage. I went to it today and it fired right off but still wont idle without my foot on the accelerator. I ran it about 5 minutes and stopped. It sounds good. no missing, still not alot of smoke but I note that the yellow engine light was on while it was runing. I put a code reader on it and the codes that were there are still not coming up. The were P0107 and P0069, and I forget the other one, but it was a air or pressure related code.
Some of the common rail guys need to chime in here, but there is a fuel rail pressure regulator that , if I have read previous posts correctly ) might be your issue.
Madhat, can you chime in here?
Madhat, can you chime in here?
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!

Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Central Mexico.
Have you just run it or driven it? If you have not driven it, suggest that you drive it for a few miles and get it a bit warm and see if that drives out any residual gas which may be causing the problem. Let us know if what happens.
And the thing that regulates rail pressure is the Fuel Control Actuator on the injector pump.
I'm with the majority here. Drive it around the block 2x, see what happens.
If it's still not good, I'd look at a FCA (I know a guy that might have a good stock one that you could borrow for shipping
), but you could have an injector problem.
Gas detonates at a much higher temp, and can reek havoc on injectors. If an FCA does not clear up your problem, I'd pull the sticks and have them sent off to get tested. Sucks, but that's what happens some times.
You need to get a FP gauge in there, so you know if your lift pump is good. Rail pressure is another must, these gauges may cost a little in the beginning, but they will help you diagnose a problem, and tell you what is going on before you are stranded on the side of the road ahead of time.
Let me know.
If it's still not good, I'd look at a FCA (I know a guy that might have a good stock one that you could borrow for shipping
), but you could have an injector problem. Gas detonates at a much higher temp, and can reek havoc on injectors. If an FCA does not clear up your problem, I'd pull the sticks and have them sent off to get tested. Sucks, but that's what happens some times.
You need to get a FP gauge in there, so you know if your lift pump is good. Rail pressure is another must, these gauges may cost a little in the beginning, but they will help you diagnose a problem, and tell you what is going on before you are stranded on the side of the road ahead of time.
Let me know.
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Ok, now...
now it is running. It starts right up. It purrs like it did before. It drives real nice, no smoke no knocks, no shakes or shimmies. BUT...it will not hit the passing gear. Why the loss of power when it seems to operate just fine in all other aspects? Where do I started looking from cheapest and easiest possibility to most expensive and expensive?
Not hitting the passing gear? From what speed?
You really need gauges. Rail pressure, fuel pressure, EGT. Get that crap, maybe 500 bucks total, we can trouble shoot a lot better.
You loaded your truck with gas, then you have a power problem. Doubt it would be a low pressure FP problem, but I don't have the facts. (what your fp is) Low power under hard running is a symptom of low FP. It could also be a hundred other things.
Give me a call tomorrow.. I'm on the west coast, so I'm three hours behind EST. (if you life east of the Mississippi, don't call me at 7.) I'll do what I can.
You really need gauges. Rail pressure, fuel pressure, EGT. Get that crap, maybe 500 bucks total, we can trouble shoot a lot better.
You loaded your truck with gas, then you have a power problem. Doubt it would be a low pressure FP problem, but I don't have the facts. (what your fp is) Low power under hard running is a symptom of low FP. It could also be a hundred other things.
Give me a call tomorrow.. I'm on the west coast, so I'm three hours behind EST. (if you life east of the Mississippi, don't call me at 7.) I'll do what I can.
Thanks Madhat
I had AZ test it and had codes for Fuel Delivery Issues, and ECM issues. The MIL did not come on til I had cranked and cranked on it and it and it finally started. I noted it when I got it runnin and it was not idling. I understand that it could be anything from air in the system, fuel leaks, vaccuum leaks, injectors, injector pump, lift pump, or emissions system. I have a friend that will be checking the pressures for me in the next day or two. Thanks for you help. I will call if I run into a block
Sounds like it could be a lift pump or injector. The low power could be the LP, as could the idle problem. The injector could cause a hard start.
If you are thinking ECM, disconnect the batteries for 20 minutes, turn the key on, press the brake, something to ground out the system. Hook them back up. This will reset the ECM slightly. Not always a perfect fix, but has worked in some situations. Free, too.
Turn the key on, listen for the lift pump. If you have a strong sounding one, it will be a steady hum for about 45 seconds. If it is erratic sounding, it's the pump.
Go get a FP gauge! You can get a cheapo from an auto parts store, and buy a T or a 90* adaptor for the CP3 and plumb it in.
If you are thinking ECM, disconnect the batteries for 20 minutes, turn the key on, press the brake, something to ground out the system. Hook them back up. This will reset the ECM slightly. Not always a perfect fix, but has worked in some situations. Free, too.
Turn the key on, listen for the lift pump. If you have a strong sounding one, it will be a steady hum for about 45 seconds. If it is erratic sounding, it's the pump.
Go get a FP gauge! You can get a cheapo from an auto parts store, and buy a T or a 90* adaptor for the CP3 and plumb it in.
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