1995 12v cummins diesel

Ok well about 2 months ago my fan spun threw my radiator after it smacked the shroud causing it to bend. Well I was injured not from this but unable to work so therefore truck sat due to lack of funds. Well i just got it fixed friday i ordered a new radiator a new shroud and a new fan blade. So i got it running now my fan barely turns you can stop it with your hand and reving the motor has no effect on the fan spinning faster as if the clutch is shot now. How the heck does it go bad just from sitting??? Also the truck Isn't running right either now it has a roughish idle like idle up idle down but not very bad. We cracked the injectors and all seemed to have an effect on how it sounded (running). Not sure if its vacume or what but im really just sick of this truck and so close to taking it to the dealer tonight and getting a new reliable vehicle. I need something that isn't going to overheat as the temp. aren't going down anytime soon here and its like 100+ every day. If anyone could please help me i would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Garrett

 

The fan clutch lost its seal when the fan smacked the works. The clutch is a disk assembly filled with a viscous fluid. When the seal is broken the fluid leaks and the clutch quits. Pick up an ultra duty fan clutch unit from one of the good aftermarket providers such as Hayden and it will solve the problem.

The rough idle can be any number of things related to fuel system maintenance, which range from old flexible fuel lines, to a leak in the fuel pick-up line in the tank, to air leaks in the fuel heater, or even a bad overflow valve on the injection pump. OR, be as simple as crud on the injectors.

Given it started after a two month set, I would pick up a high quality diesel injector cleaner and treat a tank of fuel and see if the problem pretty much goes away. I suspect the problem is a combination of soot and parafin deposits from the fuel setting in the injection system for a prolonged time. A truck of the age of yours likely has leaky pop-offs (pressure actuated check valves) in the injectors and probably set there and drooled a minute amount of diesel out the injectors while it was idle for an extended period. That diesel dissolves then bonds with the normal carbon deposits found on the injectors and disrupts the fuel pattern, hence the roughnss. Sometimes those deposits can be simply burned off the injector tips if you put a heavy load on the engine and operate it with EGT's over 1000 degrees (but not over 1,250 degrees F) for about ten minutes.

Just count your blessings that you did not have a gas rig sitting for two months, or you would be into the injection system for about $1,200 to get one of those fixed. Gasoline breaks down much faster than diesel and the new injected gas engines are very tempermental.

 

Welcome to DTR, your fan clutch is thermal, it will engage when the radiator gets warm enough to activate it. When mine is cold I can stop the blades by hand, but once it warms up it will engage and you should be able to hear the difference.
DO NOT try to stop it by hand when the engine is warm, you may lose some fingers.

As for the govenor searching for idle, the up-down surge at idle, you may need to raise the idle speed slightly. 750rpm in drive w/AC on. Or you may need to change your fuel filter. If it has been sitting algae can grow in the fuel and can clog up a filter real quick. Hope this helps.
p.s. stick with the 12v engine, the newer ones all have high dollar problems with the VP44 pump

 

Rcw, this fluid inside would it leak out of the clutch? The reason i ask i have a fluid all inside my new shroud and all over the fan blade that i did not have before i was thinking it was power steering fluid since its leaking at the base by the pitman arm. The fluid when i see it is a milky greasy gray color.
so your saying my clutch is bad...
Now dslpower your saying its good, note before i cant remember it being like it is i mean if i start it it will spin but so slow its not even funny like barly spining and you brush your hand against it and it stops and will gradually start to move again. Im not sure I'll wait for a few more opinions and go from there.

Also I removed the overflow valve and stretched the spring a 1/16 to bring it to half inch or .500. Apon re-installing it i lost a little washer, there were two small ones then a bigger brass one, will this matter? Truck seems to not be messed up anymore since re-installing.

thanks

And I didn't introduce myself so nice to meet yall and I look forward to being part of the DTR community!!

 

Hey welcome to DTR!

I agree with the fan clutch being bad...if i were to go outside and try to stop mine, i would be afraid it would chop my fingers off!! I would start by getting a new clutch and adding some fuel additive to help the idle...if that doesn't work, go from there! Hope that helps a bit!

 

You did not mention the oil in the shroud in the 1st post, Then I would agree with RCW that the clutch is bad. There should not be any oil inside the shroud or on the fan blades.

The 2 little washers on the o/f valve help set the spring preload, the copper one is the sealing washer.

 

So the one washer missing is going to push the spring tighter, what will this effect, when we stretched the spring it was probly between 1/32 to 1/16" longer anyways so im sure that will accompensate?

 

The small washers are used to shim the spring. Minus 1 = slightly less spring pressure. If you stretched the spring a little extra, you're right, it will probably even out. You may want to go ahead and get a new overflow valve soon as your old spring is weak and likely will lose tension again over time.

I just put a new OFV in mine. Best deal I found was from infidel's source:

PDI (precision Diesel Injection & Turbo, Inc.)
Marty Tompkins
1-888-734-7349

$40.00 + $1.00 x 2 for sealing washers

Genuine Bosch new part #2417413101R